how does everyone else feel about 1coat ext. paints?

Yes, Ive used the product allot this past year myself, it is thick.. thicker than some of the paints I use. I like it.
I'm not saying anyone is wrong... well, maybe..I just want to make sure I'm right.

If gonna use it on cedar and you have bleeding issues you have to prime... Again I treat ProVT as a flat paint.

Not done a cedar job yet since I've been in business, thats why I'm not familiar. Looking forward to it though.

I am currently doing a new construction exterior... I have decided to use Aura on all trim which is pre-primed....The color is tre-moss, probably about a 2base, 1 coat did not cover and it 100% needed a second coat..As far as it being self-priming, being that it says to spot prime all nail holes,it really isn't cost effecient when doing new constuction..The time it takes to do that it is much easier to prime entire surface then top coat with Aura...The only reason that i may want to use this product over another is for color retention and dry time, but i can't come to a conclusion until it has been tested over a peroid of time!!!

vermontpainter said:

I think it goes without saying that oil based stains are penetrating, and latex stains are not. By nature, nothing water based is a penetrator. I think of my latex stains more like a self priming paint. And I still prefer to build film under them in scraping situations with a primer.

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Water based alkyds can be penetrating... especially with the right co-solvent package in them.

Formulator said:

Water based alkyds can be penetrating... especially with the right co-solvent package in them.

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This is true, Form. Lately I have been using a fantastic emulsion coating. Its a miracle that an oil can be suspended in water to give the lower voc drying characteristics of a water base, with the performance and durability of an oil. The ProVT that we are discussing here is unfortunately not of that ilk.

i just primed with fresh start, and i coat provt

this was per homeowners request

at the initial meeting, i suggested 2 coats provt,,,,since its a "stain"

vermontpainter said:

This is true, Form. Lately I have been using a fantastic emulsion coating. Its a miracle that an oil can be suspended in water to give the lower voc drying characteristics of a water base, with the performance and durability of an oil. The ProVT that we are discussing here is unfortunately not of that ilk.

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What's the name of the product you are using that you are talking about? I'm just wondering if I've looked at it before.

Back on topic: I think as we see these resins become better and better you will come to realize that a higher quality paint won't need more than 1 coat. One of the resins I was testing a while back was remarkable in that film thickness made almost no difference in durability. I would coat steel panels and put them in salt fog testing and one time I had a bad draw down on one and I could see the panel where I maybe had like .2mil film thickness. Usually we tried to have 1-1.5. Put it in the salt fog anyway and it protected perfectly in that area with no film build.

Formulator said:

What's the name of the product you are using that you are talking about? I'm just wondering if I've looked at it before.

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Zar UltraMax

Scott, they do make exterior stains too in an oil waterbourne formula, have you tried any of those?
They also make glow in the dark paint for corn hole games
http://www.ugl.com/maintenanceRepairSpecialties/paintSpecialties/nite-brite.php

tsunamicontract said:

Scott, they do make exterior stains too in an oil waterbourne formula, have you tried any of those?
They also make glow in the dark paint for corn hole games
http://www.ugl.com/maintenanceRepairSpecialties/paintSpecialties/nite-brite.php

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http://www.westernsafety.com/rust-oleum/rust-oleumpg1.html

tsunamicontract said:

Scott, they do make exterior stains too in an oil waterbourne formula, have you tried any of those?
They also make glow in the dark paint for corn hole games
http://www.ugl.com/maintenanceRepairSpecialties/paintSpecialties/nite-brite.php

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I dont think I have used these stains. I do use Moorglo alot, which I understand to be an alkyd fortified acrylic at this point. That would explain why it is so hard on brushes.

vermontpainter said:

I dont think I have used these stains. I do use Moorglo alot, which I understand to be an alkyd fortified acrylic at this point. That would explain why it is so hard on brushes.

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All three exteriors from BM are that way Moorlife, moorgard, and moreglo. They all need a thinner bath after washing them in water.