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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
For those of you that paint trim first and then mask trim before walls how long do you wait before masking?
 

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usually cut it in, if it has to be done at the same time.

You can sometimes get away with taping it after a day or two (a week would be better) but often the tape still pulls some of the paint off.

It makes a difference what kind of trim paint you are using. Some paints are more durable, and less likely to peel.

Also, make sure you leave the tape on for the least amount of time possible, and remove immediately after painting. This will improve your chances of good results.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
usually cut it in, if it has to be done at the same time.

You can sometimes get away with taping it after a day or two (a week would be better) but often the tape still pulls some of the paint off.

It makes a difference what kind of trim paint you are using. Some paints are more durable, and less likely to peel.

Also, make sure you leave the tape on for the least amount of time possible, and remove immediately after painting. This will improve your chances of good results.
Thanks for your reply. Much appreciated. Sounds all round like avoiding tape is good. If cutting in after doing trim first and avoiding masking how do you find the sheen levels of the low sheen wall finish over any small semigloss excess left next to the trim or frames etc.
 

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Thanks for your reply. Much appreciated. Sounds all round like avoiding tape is good. If cutting in after doing trim first and avoiding masking how do you find the sheen levels of the low sheen wall finish over any small semigloss excess left next to the trim or frames etc.
Sheen differences are not a problem most of the time, if you are doing standard 2 coats, and not going crazy on the overlapping.
 

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I’ve had a lot of issues lately with it pulling paint off, but many trim paints are just too soft. I never have the issue using something like Advance, Cabinet Coat, or Emerald.
 

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Currently using yellow frog tape over Aura Satin trim...waiting 24 hrs per the directions and have had zero issues...the wall paint is Scuff-X Matte.I burnish the tape as well.
 

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I still remember when I was a newb and asked about taping - something like "aren't we going to tape next?." Everyone looked at me like a I had 3 heads. (Or like I was just a newb). We rarely sprayed, of course, which is a whole different story.
 

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I still remember when I was a newb and asked about taping - something like "aren't we going to tape next?." Everyone looked at me like a I had 3 heads. (Or like I was just a newb). We rarely sprayed, of course, which is a whole different story.
Some companies are like that.... I almost got fired my first day for one company when the boss saw me masking hinges on doors so I could roll right over them three times, rather than take the extra time to cut around them all perfect like. They see it as a waste of tape and time... I see it as a time saver.... I have seen people WAY over mask too though, so there is a balance.
 

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We do minimal taping, but do tape where appropriate. Cutting in walls to trim is not something we typically tape though. A skilled painter can cut in walls quick with no need for tape. If you have a concern with bonding to the semi, there is nothing wrong with quickly hitting it with sandpaper to scuff it up. When we paint trim, we try not to blast in the walls excessively. I like to see it lap about 1/8" onto the walls, then we cut the wall in to make a nice sharp line. The lap ensures there will be no holidays when trying to cut both the trim and wall. It is also faster.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
That’s all great info. Thanks heaps. Good advice on the semi. I’ve been the same as using tape only when I have to. Just finished a kitchen wall that was hand painted hardwood. Client requested bare timber horizontal strip just above the sink and I got a great result taping the line and the running a thin bead of calk along the tape edge wiped off before painting and then removing immediately. Did a wonderful job stoping paint heading south down the vertical grain and joins in hard wood and produced a super sharp line. 90% with trim I just cut in now but resort to tape if the clock is ticking as I’m not super fast yet. Really enjoying this forum and the good info. Cheers.

We do minimal taping, but do tape where appropriate. Cutting in walls to trim is not something we typically tape though. A skilled painter can cut in walls quick with no need for tape. If you have a concern with bonding to the semi, there is nothing wrong with quickly hitting it with sandpaper to scuff it up. When we paint trim, we try not to blast in the walls excessively. I like to see it lap about 1/8" onto the walls, then we cut the wall in to make a nice sharp line. The lap ensures there will be no holidays when trying to cut both the trim and wall. It is also faster.
 

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For those of you that paint trim first and then mask trim before walls how long do you wait before masking?
I am on such a project right now. I am using Advance satin on trim and scuffx for walls. Advance never picks up from tape. Wait 24 hours to tap.
 

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I tape and caulk trim almost always and rarely have the tape pull up the freshly painted trim paint weather 8 hours old or days old and as TTD mentioned some paints are more soft.
Intertape from IPG is a good general masking tape that has less tack then say Shurtape but is a good general making tape without the 4 to 6 dollar a roll price of specialty tapes.

I did about a decade of residential repaints and tried every method imaginable and for me an average interior guest bedroom takes me about 10 minutes to tape and caulk and like 25 more minutes to cut in and roll. If I don't tape and caulk it takes an hour.
I often roll it all out first then cut in and the cut in is minimal and you get the sharp lines in the end using tape, it is working smart rather then working hard.

I am currently repainting a bank in my town and it has unique base boards and crown molding and while it does take more prep up front the coat of primer and then paint saves me from the tedious chore of cutting in twice and watching out when rolling since tape and caulk protects the trim when rolling and effortless brushing.

Perfect tape and caulking methods and it will save you time and money the rest of your career.
 

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Even with cheaper paints, the only time I've ever had tape pull off is if I (or the guy before me) didn't prep it that great. As in, dusty, dirty, latex on top of oil, or dusty drywall painted directly over, etc. Even the cheapest paints as long as the prep is good should be fine with blue or frog tape on them for 24-72 hours.
 
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