[lilpaintchic]

Carefully vacuum,mop or otherwise remove dust from walls, Hose it with gardz, pencil any defects, repair defects, spot prime with gardz, pole sand, then hose it all again. Don't back roll, just leave adequate time between coats (primer and finish.dont push it...it needs to thoroughly dry)
Cashmere is a nice product to spray, so is Manor Hall (ppg). Touch up needs to be done with a ff tip, hvlp or prevail (think trim touch up). The gardz on a clean surface will penetrate and bond. A couple thin coats is better than trying to get it in 1. 3 might even be the way to go depending on the uniformity of the sheen after the 2nd coat. You could go with 123 but I think gardz is more well suited for your purposes on this. Good luck, sounds like a bit of a pita.

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[lilpaintchic]

lilpaintchic, as you know, I am a big proponent of Gardz. I also agree that 2 (or, as you mention, sometimes 3) coats of Gardz are better than one. I have also found that if most of the dust is removed from the surface to be skimmed, a coat of Gardz will soak through and bond any dust that is left into the surface. I just have a question below.

I have been doing a lot of work for a contractor in a couple of Chicago hi rises. He does a lot of skim coating over the original heavy orange peel on the ceilings and walls when these condos were built. He begrudgingly agrees that Gardz is a good thing for sealing skim coats, but he does want a coat of 123 (or other white primer/sealer) on before he uses a bright light to look for defects as they are hard to find otherwise. I have to agree with him if I am going to just try and patch the defects.

I did finish one wall for him that got bright sunlight and needed to be very, very smooth and flat. I screwed it up using Easy Sand and asked him to fix it. He went over it with a pencil, then skim-patched with Blue Top mud that dries sort of yellow. I very gently sanded this down (I can sand this stuff with my hand) and put a coat of Gardz on it, let it dry, then skim coated the whole wall with Durabond 45, let dry, then sanded. I skimmed the whole wall instead of looking for defects as I always seem to find more defects while I am correcting the ones I have penciled as well as finding more once I am all done and starting to paint. I left the wall like this until he fabricated an opening where the wall was broken away so a prehung door could be installed, after which he finished skim coating with Easy Sand to blend it in with the rest of the wall. He primed it with 123 and I painted it 2 coats Regal Select. The only defects were where he had finished the wall with Easy Sand and primed it without giving me a chance to do my thing before finishing the wall. As the job had to be finished, we left it as it was.

My question for you (and anyone else here) is how do you find any defects in a skimmed (and possibly Gardzed) ceiling or wall without the visual advantage of a white surface - unless you thinly skim coat, then sand the whole surface?

Also, why do you advise against backrolling? I have found that paint going over a surface properly sealed with Gardz will not lose its moisture by it seeping into the wall, thus giving a longer time to work the paint before it starts to dry and tack up.

Other than that, I like your procedures detailed above.

futtyos

Not quite sure if I'm understanding correctly but use a light over the entire surface to pick up imperfections. You can add a little chalk from a chalk line/box to your touch up mud to highlight your touchups with out having to use a pencil and perhaps having a pencil line to fix.

The suggestion in this case to avoid bankrolling was in response to having the smoothest walls possible. Gardz will bond and penetrate very well without bankrolling if the surface is pretty clean of dust to start with. We don't backroll trim. If you want your walls to be as smooth as your trim, you gotta use the same methods. Hope that made sense. [emoji12]

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[lilpaintchic]

I already planned on Gardz (2 coats minimum). Heard great things about Cashmere as far as finish quality/smoothness and not being like other paints that are the viscosity of peanut butter but PacMan said there are better paints than that so I've been patiently waiting for his response...

Pac hates sw...he thinks they screwed him over for a job promotion a long time ago. Use what you're comfortable with...sw or whatever floats yer boat.

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[lilpaintchic]

I don't think. There where several people fired from SW and a lawsuit for nepotism was pending. I dropped it when I went to work for PPG. And if any of you would like to stop by I have pretty much every SW product here in my store and you are more then welcome to compare them at your leisure and not have to experiment on a job. Name a paint store that will do that! I'm not backing down from the issue that SW products, while being fairly good and quite usable products, are NOT the best products in any competitive price range. They know it and if they keep selling it why bother changing it. It costs money to develop new paint lines and why spend that money if people are perfectly willing to use whatever you have to sell.

Before long none of you will have any choice in who you buy your paint from and what happens then? Prices inflate incredibly quickly and the quality goes to crap. Why do you think major appliances are such crap these days? It used to be you bought a refrigerator and expected it to last 15-20 years. Now on average they last 6-7 years. Basically it's because there are only three companies making all of the various brands, instead of there being 30 or 40 companies manufacturing appliances and the competition between them kept the quality high while the prices where low.

What about automobiles? Do you all realize what would have happened if there had never been a Honda or Toyota? You can complain all you want about them, but they are the companies that keep the American car manufacturers on their toes and forces them to keep producing cars of a fairly high quality. Without that competition, think about what we would be driving today! Think about how crappy cars already were in the mid 70's! Vega's for christs sake! They rusted out in a year and their engines would go no more than 60-70 thousand miles before they would blow up.

SW is basically in that mid 70' mind set with their products right now. If people are blindly buying their products, why bother making them better? And even if there are better products sold elsewhere, why worry if no one is buying them? It really isn't JUST SW but most of the major paint manufacturers.

And did i ever mention that SW owed me 9 months of back wage increase when i quit? They gave me and excellent review, gave me a $10,000.00 a year salary increase, and didn't pay it to me until after i gave them my two week notice. No reason given, just didn't pay me. What company does crap like that to an employee that has 10 years of excellent performance reviews? Not a good company to work for.

See, told ya. big fat resentment. For many,many years. Sorry pac.

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