What is the best long term method to repair large splits in old wooden siding boards? The boards are about 10 inches wide. I have used latex caulk before which sinks a little when it dries but remains flexable. I have also used bonds wood filler which is vey hard but does not last long because of the expansion and contraction of the board. Any suggestions from your experience?
How to repair large splits in 75 plus year old wooden siding
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What is the best way for a professional painter to introduce themselves to a discussion board for professional painters? IDK. Maybe this: New Member Introductions
In all fairness, he did fill out the about me section in his profile. Better than most..
Wow so friendly i hope you dont treat your new employees this way. Expecting them to know exactly how to do things on day one, then insulting them if they don’t. Great introduction to this site!!!!
Joe's just busting your chops because we get soo many diy-ers and spammers on this site. He didn't mean it. We ask new members to go to the "new members" section to tell the group about themselves. Welcome and Hope you stick around, there's a ton of knowledge around here. Personally on any split wood, I use an elastomeric caulking. Or replace the wood..
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I also usually just caulk them when doing a repaint. Pics are always helpful.
elastomeric will probably last longer, but they are slow drying, and usually recommend a week cure before painting, so unless the cracks are severe and it is critical they do not re-open I just caulk and paint. You may look into Lexel (paintable in 24-48 hours, flexes 400%)
welcome to PT.
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I was indeed just busting your chops because of what kevyn said - hang around for a while and you'll see. It's a board for pro painters (DIY'ers have another board). It's also just plain easier to answer people when you have some sense of who they are / background / experience etc.
Just caulk them as noted. If you have time for all of the waiting a 2nd application can help fill the sunken parts.
Residential repaints and custom finish carpentry
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If they’re that bad I’m usually more inclined to tear them out and install new boards but I have more of a carpentry background and am usually carrying a miter saw, table saw, nail guns etc. so it’s a little more practical for me. It depends too what the customer is expecting.
Do you, by chance have a picture of the issue? That would be helpful.
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My initial thoughts are actually use a polyurethane sealant like Sikaflex. They're much thicker than a normal latex caulk and much better at repelling water. Much less chance of shrinking and cracking. Takes paint, too, unlike silicone, but with almost the same or better water repellent capabilities.
Promo video, as you can see, way better than any latex caulk.
Another thing to consider that is sorta painting 101 but I don't hear talked about often here is using backer rod, as in, foam lengths of tubing anywhere from 1/4" to 3/4" of an inch or more. Ideally with caulking if you have any cracks over about 1/4" wide to deal with, you should be using backer rod first to plug up the gap, then put the sealant on top of the backer rod, not just shooting more and more caulking in. Because the deeper you go with just shooting more caulking in the more chance of it not curing properly or cracking/etc on you, though the polyurethane sealants are designed for huge joints/etc compared to latex caulks.
Another thing to consider that is sorta painting 101 but I don't hear talked about often here is using backer rod, as in, foam lengths of tubing anywhere from 1/4" to 3/4" of an inch or more. Ideally with caulking if you have any cracks over about 1/4" wide to deal with, you should be using backer rod first to plug up the gap, then put the sealant on top of the backer rod, not just shooting more and more caulking in. Because the deeper you go with just shooting more caulking in the more chance of it not curing properly or cracking/etc on you, though the polyurethane sealants are designed for huge joints/etc compared to latex caulks.
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