[tsunamicontract]

sorry to start another DIY thread . . . but . . . I went an looked at a largish old, unfinished, natural stucco home right on main street. It is currently dirty white and the new HO is a huge fan of Norway and their colors (deep red, blue and cream). For some reason I had it in me to suggest a red body, blue trim, and cream accent paint job. Seeing as how this job is right on the main drag and it will be quite the transformation, I don't want to "screw it up". I was going to put two coats of ConFlex elastomeric on it. Does any one have experience as to the coverage of a red in an elastomeric? Will I need a 3rd coat for full color? Is this color scheme just a bad idea? I was thinking 2 coats of elastomeric as opposed to 1 ct conditioning primer 2 top coats because 1) the stucco is so old there are lots of hairline cracks to bridge and keep bridged and 2) then I am only putting 2 coats on, not 3. I am just lacking confidence on this and that is why I started this thread
The third picture is just the darn bestest stucco job I have ever seen :whistling2:

 

[aaron61]

what3rd pic?????

 

[tsunamicontract]

3rd pic

 

[aaron61]

Did you do that?? I like the effect of textured lighting

 

[tsunamicontract]

no, I would not spray stucco over light fixtures and down spouts.

 

[bikerboy]

Kind of gives the fixtures a "Flinstone's" look. Just what I'd like to come home to after a hard day at the rock quarry and Mr. Slate.

Wish I had an answer, but stucco is really rare here, but am sure we will see it soon.

 

[Mopaint]

elastimerics in deep colors are not the best idea because of fading. Red is a bad color for fading. I would use 2 coats of esastimeric tinted close then a full coat of top line ext. satin acrylic house paint. I did one simular one year ago and the lady still raves about it to her freinds. You are right you can't buy that kind of advertising.

 

[tsunamicontract]

elastimerics in deep colors are not the best idea because of fading. Red is a bad color for fading. I would use 2 coats of esastimeric tinted close then a full coat of top line ext. satin acrylic house paint. I did one simular one year ago and the lady still raves about it to her freinds. You are right you can't buy that kind of advertising.

Thanks, Mopaint, this was exactly the kind of advice I was looking for. That was my impression of what would happen and I kept trying to ask my store managers if I could do a system like this and they were just like why bother? Because I want it to look good for a long time! Thats why!
Would superpaint satin be flexible enough (as opposed to duration because duration is not warranted for fade resistance)?

 

[tsunamicontract]

My store manager said that the elastomerics will fade just as fast as paint so there would be no reason to top coat it with paint, also the paint would not flex as much as the elastomeric and may induce peeling. I am worried that with a deep red the house is going to need to get coated every 4-5 years . . .

 

[painttofish]

I would stick with two coats of elastomeric. Just make the HO aware of the fact that a deep color will fade more noticeably than a midtone. Fading is much better than cracking and peeling. Do you have a spray rig that can push elastomerics? Two coats of that thick stuff will cover just fine in any color.

 

[tsunamicontract]

Thinking it through, the colorant in the two products are the same, so they should fade at basically the same rate, which would make the risk of a top coat of paint not worth it. I only have a graco 490. Will this push it? My SW store manager said yes, my PL and PPG manager said no. Anyone have experience with P&L's elastomeric vs ConFlex? My guess is that since SW owns P and L and P and L doesn't do much industrial stuff, that it is the same thing in a different can (and a couple dollars a gallon cheaper for me).

 

[painttofish]

No. You need a much bigger pump. Elasto's are twice as thick as paint. Think block filler.

 

[Masterpiece]

I don't know the specs of the 490 offhand but regarding a standard electric airless, I'm afraid that pushing the elastomaric wil induce quite a bit of wear and tear and likely still not give adequate output....

Still trying to wrap my mind around the blue trim....:whistling2:

Sounds fun though...

Jeremy

 

[tsunamicontract]

ok I tried to paint it BM personal color view which I found out I hate and it sucks.

 

[johnthepainter]

who cares of your rig is small??? those nice big flat panels will roll out nicely/easily

ive rolled plenty of conflex on stucco with an 18",,,,,the roller really crams it into the cracks,,,,

 

[tsunamicontract]

i was thinking that elasto would be brutal to roll. how did you roll it up on the ladders? 5er with a screen? I think the tds says it has to be sprayed.

 

[daren]

i was thinking that elasto would be brutal to roll. how did you roll it up on the ladders? 5er with a screen? I think the tds says it has to be sprayed.

Stand on the ground and use a tall pole:thumbsup:

 

[NACE]

I am in aggreement that you should use a coat of elastomeric but not in a deep color. Most elastomerics have about 400% elongation and 95% memory. Most paint companies say that elastomerics should not be tinted to deep colors because of the elasticity properties with the addition of glycol based colorants. Disparities in expantion and contraction of conventional paint and elastomerics is also a concern, but it is done all the time with great success. You may want to consider a waterbased masonry sealer as your primer. If the fissures and cracks are greater than hairline, you may need to fill with an elastomeric sealant or patch. BM makes a brush grade and knife grade elastomeric sealant, both smooth and textured, that has 600% elongation and 99% memory. Why not use the AURA exterior as a top coat? That has extraordinary color retention since it has the urethane reinforced waterborne colorant? I think that picture looks great too! Flats and low luster are more compatible with than satin or semi gloss since they flex better.

 

[tsunamicontract]

NACE, with posts like that, you should have more than 38; Your insight is appreciated. After 3 hours with the color consultant and 7 colors later (well one is the roof color, one is the down spouts and gutters (which is also going to be the adjoining fascia color) and one is the color of the future vinyl windows) the color scheme has changed slightly but the main body is still going to be deep red.
Why is it that elastomerics should not be tinted deep colors? (the red color we choose is mostly red oxide which should fade less and cover better than a magenta red). Do the colorants not flex as much or do they reduce the flexing ability of the elastomeric?

The main issue with the stucco on this particular project is there are lots of hairline cracks that need to be and stay bridged. This is why I would feel much more comfortable putting elastomeric on than something like LoxOn and paint. Would aura go right over the elastomerics? Should I put two coats of elasto on now and a coat of aura in 5 years? I am thinking the latter might be more cost efficient.

 

[spectrum]

Lot's of good advice so far..............

I also believe you are right on track with the use of an elastomeric on this project. You may even want to consider Con Flex in a fine texture, hand rolled as opposed to spraying and back rolling. Very nice finish! We just completed a large commercial Con Flex Fine texture job, hand rolled.

The Deep red is a candidate for fading and this should be noted in your proposal. Choose a red color selection, if possible, that is pigmented in such a way as to minimize fading (ask your Rep to look over the formulas and bases)

I strongly recommend that you apply a clear, pentrating acrylic bonding primer to the stucco. I have learned the hard way not to skip this important first step. Masonry conditioner works fine under elastomerics but our tried and true favorite has been Seal Krete. Fast and easy to apply, tenacious adhesion. Top coat it with the Conflex just as it "tacks up". Great system.

Be sure to achieve a "pin hole free" finish with the elastomerics for a long term, durable coating. You could also possibly clear coat the final coat with a coat of Sherclear acrylic in a satin , non yellowing finish for added protection , although we have only done this on paints, not elastomerics.

One final note, the better resins cost more. Really superior elastomerics have a high elongation factor and are made from quality materials.

Paul from Spectrum

www.spectrumcoatingsco.com