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is there any reason this wouldn't work?

5352 Views 24 Replies 12 Participants Last post by  tsunamicontract
sorry to start another DIY thread . . . but . . . I went an looked at a largish old, unfinished, natural stucco home right on main street. It is currently dirty white and the new HO is a huge fan of Norway and their colors (deep red, blue and cream). For some reason I had it in me to suggest a red body, blue trim, and cream accent paint job. Seeing as how this job is right on the main drag and it will be quite the transformation, I don't want to "screw it up". I was going to put two coats of ConFlex elastomeric on it. Does any one have experience as to the coverage of a red in an elastomeric? Will I need a 3rd coat for full color? Is this color scheme just a bad idea? I was thinking 2 coats of elastomeric as opposed to 1 ct conditioning primer 2 top coats because 1) the stucco is so old there are lots of hairline cracks to bridge and keep bridged and 2) then I am only putting 2 coats on, not 3. I am just lacking confidence on this and that is why I started this thread :)
The third picture is just the darn bestest stucco job I have ever seen :whistling2:


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I was going to use the P and L elastomeric; I am thinking that since SW owns P and L and that P and L doesn't do the industrial line that SW does, that it is probably the same stuff. I would shy away from a clear coat on this job, might look funny and price me out of the job. What about a uv protectant like 303 aerospace? If applied every 2 years might this make the color last longer? I would think that when it were to get recoated the tsp in the wash would take it off. I do know the color we choose is mostly made with red oxide which should be more fade resistant if I have my facts right.
I am not worried about how flexible it is, this stuff doesn't seem like it is moving too much, more concerned about crack bridging.


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Why not sell them a better color scheme? maybe the cream as the main color with Blue and Red accents?I agree that the red is destine to fade and look crappy after a few years.
Interesting project. Was a new stucco finish sprayed over the old finish?.

I'm reading two different concerns in your post.

1. Structural- Bridge the hairline cracks to prevent water intrusion? Elastomeric paints are normally recommended for waterproofing. As I understand it, in order for this coating to work as intended, it needs to be applied pin hole free as another poster noted. Moisture does not release well from behind this product.

2. Aesthetics- The color scheme, and color retention, seems to be the top priority on this job.

IMO, unless the structure is suffering from water intrusion, I would stick with any of the quality exterior paints mentioned. There are more "breathable" masonry primers that will help with hairline cracks.
i was thinking that elasto would be brutal to roll. how did you roll it up on the ladders? 5er with a screen? I think the tds says it has to be sprayed.

yes i rolled conflex,,,,,,looks great,,works great,,,

parex's elastomeric also
Thats good to hear John. Then I don't have to rent a bigger spray rig and worry about oversprayed elasto running around town. I have those "handy ladder roller tray" things that have ladder hooks, that might work, but I think they only hold 1.5 gal.
As for pinholeing, I might have them add a little magic juice florosurfactant that my buddy carter gave me ;)
I am going to stick with elasto for the coating, not masonry primer and paint. In say 5 years when it has faded some maybe I will put a coat of aura over it. By then any problem spots should have shown up.
The house has to stay red if I am going to get the job, but we made sure its not a fading magenta, but more of a brick that should be more colorfast. I still want to try the 303 aerospace stuff as sunscreen for it. check it out
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