Bill had a thread on this recently. I really would recommend that you not do a job with this degree of difficulty, particularly solo, at this point in your career.

 

sailstrainer, I would highly recommend that you heed the safety advice, generously provided to you in the attached quote.

Also remember that your in the business to earn money, not break your neck. And don't consider using duct tape to secure the ladder footings.

Good luck to you mate!

 

howtopainttalk.com

 

Buy some ladder boots/mits for the end of your ladder so it does not scuff or dent the wall.

There are all kinds of ladder stabalizers and pads that can be used for slippage.

 

that seemed to work flawlessly for me each time with a 2 story foyer.

 

Sean

With all due respect, I have to disagree here. This one is a recipe for disaster. I know experienced painters who have gone foyer surfing. Too much potential for physical injury and property damage to put the pt stamp on this one.

To this day, I require a footer to be present for these situations.

 

True but i know he is a one man shop so I mentioned the stabalizers and pads. Not completely taking into account how green he is.

Trainer, if you have someone that can help you out for this part of the project you might be better off. Maybe a buddy or your wife or anybody that can be percieved as professional.

As Scott pointed out many of experienced painters have caused damage to the the job, and death to others, or to themselfs in similar curcumstances.

What I suggested will work but will cost you some money to buy the proper equipment and even with the proper equipment anything could happen.

Rolling scaffold is another option but can scuff the floor and is also easiest with the aid of another.

 

Where is that how to painttalk.com located? ........Seriously I appreciate the concern. I gotta do one sometime, and this is close to home, only job I have on the burner right now. I agree I am a bit concerned about it and plan on being very careful. I have read all of the ladder threads on here I think. How do one man shows handle this job if they do attempt this? Would renting the cage type scaffolding be a option instead of using ladder?

 

st

If you cannot refuse the temptation, I would recommend two things:

1. Pay someone to stand on the bottom rung of your ladder all day long, no matter what it costs.

2. Advil

 

Portable Ladder Safety Tips
​

Falls from portable ladders (step, straight, combination and extension) are one of the leading causes of occupational fatalities and injuries.

• Read and follow all labels/markings on the ladder.
• Avoid electrical hazards! – Look for overhead power lines before handling a ladder. Avoid using a metal ladder near power lines or exposed energized electrical equipment.
• Always inspect the ladder prior to using it. If the ladder is damaged, it must be removed from service and tagged until repaired or discarded.
• Do not use a self-supporting ladder (e.g., step ladder) as a single ladder or in a partially closed position.
• Do not use the top step/rung of a ladder as a step/rung unless it was designed for that purpose. Portable Ladder Safety Tips TM
• Always maintain a 3-point (two hands and a foot, or two feet and a hand) contact on the ladder when climbing. Keep your body near the middle of the step and always face the ladder while climbing (see diagram).
• Only use ladders and appropriate accessories (ladder levelers, jacks or hooks) for their designed purposes.
• Ladders must be free of any slippery material on the rungs, steps or feet.
• Do not use a self-supporting ladder (e.g., step ladder) as a single ladder or in a partially closed position.
• Do not use the top step/rung of a ladder as a step/rung unless it was designed for that purpose.
• Use a ladder only on a stable and level surface, unless it has been secured (top or bottom) to prevent displacement.
• Do not place a ladder on boxes, barrels or other unstable bases to obtain additional height.
• Do not move or shift a ladder while a person or equipment is on the ladder.
• An extension or straight ladder used to access an elevated surface must extend at least 3 feet above the point of support (see diagram). Do not stand on the three top rungs of a straight, single or extension ladder.
• The proper angle for setting up a ladder is to place its base a quarter of the working length of the ladder from the wall or other vertical surface (see diagram).
• A ladder placed in any location where it can be displaced by other work activities must be secured to prevent displacement or a barricade must be erected to keep traffic away from the ladder.
• Be sure that all locks on an extension ladder are properly engaged.
• Do not exceed the maximum load rating of a ladder. Be aware of the ladder’s load rating and of the weight it is supporting, including the weight of any tools or equipment.

For more complete information:

Occupational
Safety and Health
AdministrationU.S. Department of Labor
www.osha.gov (800) 321-OSHA

​

 

You guys are bad...........

 

Ok whoa this puppy up for a second. I apologize I am practically braindead from print estimating this week. But...

Did you say you were doing this with a telescoping ladder? If so, there are no conditions under which I can support this idea. Sit home. Be healthy. 90% of interior jobs can be done with a 4' step. Trust me, I rode my extension with grippy bumpers about halfway down a foyer wall on drops over a maple floor about 10 years ago. Its hard to keep from spilling the cut pot when you are filling your britches.

 

Its hard to keep from spilling the cut pot when you are filling your britches.

That is a hell of a signature right there.

 

Getting ready to start job painting 2-story foyer, tested out my m/t 17 werner adjustable ladder on wood floor, doesn't seem as stable as I thought. Also have tile area to deal with, it would be slicker I would think. Was not planning on using anything to firm up ladder, should I? Also being this is first 2 story foyer i've done, what is the best way to keep ladder from scuffing wall. I am planning on rolling last after trimming of course. Any tips would be appreciated!

I once had to cut in a 20' vaulted ceiling in a log house...The floors were hardwood and the angle made me very uncomfortable.....It was way out in the country so I didn't rent any scaffolding.

I decided to tape the feet of the ladder onto the hardwood floor with duck tape...I used long pieces that really stuck to the floor and feet of the extension ladder...I also made damn sure that the angle was not too stressful on the feet of the ladder....It was time consuming but I painted the whole living room/dining room using that method...I had to used "Goo-Gone" to clean the duck tape glue residue off the floor...

That being said,I'm not sure if a safety officer would have OK'd that method..I did feel MUCH safer with the ladder secured to the floor with duck tape......That ladder wasn't moving anywhere!...The ladder probably would not have slipped on the floor,but I wasn't taking any chances!...The tape really eased my fears.

 

wasn't there a post about laddersafety.com or something??

Wait a minute, let me check ...................

here it is

http://www.laddersafety.org/

take a look at that

Now I'm confused about the ladder you are thinking about. You said
"m/t 17 werner adjustable ladder" Is that an A frame ladder like the Little Giant? I know they make a tall one. If that is the ladder, you should be fine. If you feel uncomfortable on it, then you have another issue, IMO.

Now, if it is a regular extension ladder and you are insistent on doing this after all the advice, put some rubber roofing under the feet and make sure your angle is just a wee bit steep. By rubber roofing I mean the stuff they put under the asphalt shingles to prevent leaks from roof dams. I used some a few years ago on a slate floor and then we had planks on the ladders. It was incredibly secure. But I tend to be a little fearless on ladders once I got my legs.

Also pad the feet against the walls. I actually have made a board with carpeting on it because sometimes I am FORCED to lean a ladder against wet wallpaper and need to spread out the weight.

But remember this PRIMARY rule, If you feel at all uncomfortable,. DO NOT PROCEED. A case of the nerves will cause an accident even if your set-up is safe.

Rolling staging would be by far the safest. I think a baker type can be as high as fifteen feet (with outriggers). If I was painting a lot of tall foyers, I would have invested in one many years ago.

Just remember the old clique, Safety is no accident

 

Bills suggestion is very good. The material is called Grace Ice and Water Shield. Pull the backing paper off and stick it right to the floor. Then when you pull it, you will learn all about refinishing wood flooring. Sorry Bill, couldnt resist. I cant think of a worse idea.

 

That's OK Scott. The stuff we used did not have any adhesive. And I was cautiously pessimistic about it working. I brought all sorts of 2 x 4 's to brace the feet. But my helper had done a lot of this - she's done much more commercial goods than I. I tested and tested once the ladders were set. She did spot the foot until I was fully confident.

Scott, you know I would have had doubts about this and would not be suggesting it if I did not have such a good experience. OH, and I think it was 19 feet from floor to ceiling. We were handling 54" type II vinyl, so you know that stuff had a little weight.


But I did wonder why she did not climb the ladder :whistling2:

Hey, I'm here as proof it worked :thumbup:

 

Just bustin on ya Bill. It would be pretty funny to lay down Ice and Water on a nice foyer hardwood floor. I would only do it if the floor had radiant heat though!

 

put it sticky side up and it would REALLY hold the ladder :jester:

 

I cannot believe you used duct tape to hold a ladder in place. And survived.

 

I cannot believe you used duct tape to hold a ladder in place. And survived.

I too was a bit taken back by the duct tape post but figured it must of been more of a confidence thing then saftey precaution, not that I would have much confidence in the duct tape.

 

I always use an anti slip rug under ladder when there is wood floors or tile. It also protects the floor. When the backing gets a little worn just replace the rug.

 

To answer the question though, I agree someone footing the ladder is a worthwhile investment.

 

I guess one method that hasnt been considered so far would be to screw a 2x4 into the floor across the feet of the ladder (on the side of the feet that is away from the wall you are working on, of course). Then, when done, pull the screws and fill the holes. :no:

Foyers have always been challening but I had no idea what a circus they might really be. Is it really that difficult to have a helper footing for the day? Maybe so.

Bottom line is that some projects are better suited to a 2 man approach, and not great for solo flight.

 

All tho I am most comfortable with a footer most of the time if I had to do something quick with the ladder in the foyer on slippery floors I have used the pivot tool wedged under the bottom rung and it work fine. I have also used a cheap rug that has the rubber backing which grips nicely to the floor... Also make sure the ladder is not too much on a angle helps with distributing the weight straight down and not out..

Good luck.. and pay up your disability

 

I use staging. And being mostly one man show, I can safely build it up myself.
Nice thing with these is one level can roll through door openings (use to do a lot of old houses with 12 ft ceilings) and it saves your feet from ladder burn! I have one more level....can get pretty high. Well worth the investment.

 

Roadog,

That's what I'm talking about.

How high is the max platform on one of those, I forget

 

Hopefully you will get a someone to foot the ladder, if not use some type of rubber matt on the bottom of the ladder, like the backing for carpet, also see if you can secure the bottom of the ladder, like run a steb ladder on the floor againtst it, securing the step ladder. be carefull not to scratch the floors.

If you have never done this before, Im a little pissed and feel sorry for the HO that hired you, its not really fare for the HO to hire a professional and get some guy learning the trade on their dime. Sorry to be harsh but this is the type of thing you learn from working for a pro. This is also the type of thing that gives the industry a bad name.


Goodluck

 

Well said. Case closed!

 

I may be prospecting too much,lol....as some of you know, I came from a serious sales background, and have been prospecting like crazy, and probably getting some jobs that I shouldn't. While some guys locally who can probably paint circles around me at this point are waiting for the phone to ring, I have been marketing houses close to me and many have 2 -story foyers. I will for sure have a helper that day, and yes the werner is like a little giant and i have a ladder pivot. I also have been looking at scaffolding which would be a good investment. I appreciate the concern, I am a bit suprised at some responses, I really thought that if I said i was gonna pass on the job, I would have been given hell for not stepping up and doing the job. Maybe I have taken a tough route starting without much experience, but I am a fast learner and hard -headed, and I really do appreciate the help I have gotten on here!

 

Just go get some rubber bath mats with the suction cups on the bottom and you'll be fine....and try not to lean the ladder over the bannister.

 

I feel like getting leads will be a strength, so my goal is to have so many leads I can pass on jobs like this or have a helper eventually. Again thanks for the concern, I thought I would be given a hard time if I didn't take the job. That being said I watched some "pro's" down the street painting a 2-story foyer that scared the #@@** out of me, and these guys been doing it way longer than I've been! You guys have to remember you are the best of the best on this site, many "pro's" give the profession are worse name than some newbies. I always strive strive the best very professional on a job, that is one reason i got into this, because I have heard so many complaints from HO's about their last experience. Again I do appreciate the concern.

 

Trainer,

Any paint contracting business, regardless of its business model, size, workforce configuration, needs to have a healthy balance between the different aspects of its operation: marketing/sales/estimating, field execution, etc. Yours is a little out of balance right now and the weakness is in the area that is most visible to the consumer: skills and knowledge required to complete the work. It calls into question, and this is frequent on the forum, how can you estimate and sell a small job that you are not sure how to execute? Small jobs are often more difficult to execute properly than larger projects because you are dealing with smaller numbers and margins. It doesnt take much to make it a loser in the numbers, and to lose customers and reputation rather quickly.

On the bright side, most paint contracting companies do not have a healthy balance between the different critical components of their business, so you should not be too ashamed.

 

If I had to put my money on a salesman making it as a painter or a painter making it as a salesman my money would be on the first option all day long.