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latex over oil

40K views 38 replies 14 participants last post by  Redux  
Any of the many latex bonding primers like Stix will work well. You will of course have to degloss first with abrasives or chemicals. A wet sand may be preferrable, especially if there is a chance of lead being present..
 
Most latex WILL NOT stick properly to oil, scuffed or not. Flexibility has nothing to do with it. You should know this....
Maybe not for adhesion, but yes the general rule for a system would be to try and have a more flexible product over the preceding, especially outside. That's why they don't recommend whole house priming with BIN because it's so brittle.
 
Recently started using bm 046 for interior stained wood that’s being painted white. A light scuff with a block, fitted wipe and prime. So much better than getting oil out. Finish with two coats of scuff x.


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Kind of curious as to why Fresh Start has the 023 and the 046? On paper, the 046 looks better in so many ways..
 
Has anybody ever heard of the 1604 Rule? A paint 100% solids by volume will go 1604 Sq Ft @ 1 mil Wet film thickness. WFT, a paint 50% will go 802 sq feet, etc. The advantage of Pitt tech is the solids by volume, One interstate contractor said he uses 30 to 50% less material using Pitt Tech vs the 043 DTM line, depending on color. The sheer bond adhesion strength of any DTM should handle any previous alkyd coating properly cleaned. Not a solvent epoxy or Urethane. Excluding horizontal surfaces of course.
Ive personally not heard that, but I'm also NOT a total paint geek. There's not many paints that have 100% solids and not many recommend a 1mm WFT? But yes, Solids by volume are a good thing.