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Hello All

Finished removing painted, knockdown texture on ceiling and the drywall was wet afterwards. On a couple of areas, I removed the white and brown paper exposing the drywall core. After 18-20 hours, I spot primed with Bin Cover Stain and planned on mudding problem areas in a couple of days. Unfortunately in my haste, I forgot to take a moisture reading before priming. The moisture reading was 13-15%. After 1 hour the Cover stain was dry to touch. Have I set the stage for mold growth? I set up a dehumidifier but the humidity reading was 40% and it kicked off. If I did block the moisture from drying out on the occupied side, will the moisture transfer to the hot attic and the drywall eventually get to a suitable moisture content?
Sorry for the long winded question.
 

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Hello All

Finished removing painted, knockdown texture on ceiling and the drywall was wet afterwards. On a couple of areas, I removed the white and brown paper exposing the drywall core. After 18-20 hours, I spot primed with Bin Cover Stain and planned on mudding problem areas in a couple of days. Unfortunately in my haste, I forgot to take a moisture reading before priming. The moisture reading was 13-15%. After 1 hour the Cover stain was dry to touch. Have I set the stage for mold growth? I set up a dehumidifier but the humidity reading was 40% and it kicked off. If I did block the moisture from drying out on the occupied side, will the moisture transfer to the hot attic and the drywall eventually get to a suitable moisture content?
Sorry for the long winded question.
This site is for pro's only. From the sounds of it, you should be hiring someone to do this work for you.
-"Bin Coverstain" is not a thing.
- neither BIN nor Coverstain is appropriate for new drywall mud.
 

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This site is for pro's only. From the sounds of it, you should be hiring someone to do this work for you.
-"Bin Coverstain" is not a thing.
- neither BIN nor Coverstain is appropriate for new drywall mud.
Although I’m not a fan of Coverstain, it is perfectly compatible over joint compound & new drywall. Rather than Coverstain, I’ve used Moore’s 024 alkyd primer extensively as an undercoater on new level 5 drywall installations as well as for priming joint compound after skim coating over existing finishes.
 

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Although I’m not a fan of Coverstain, it is perfectly compatible over joint compound & new drywall. Rather than Coverstain, I’ve used Moore’s 024 alkyd primer extensively as an undercoater on new level 5 drywall installations as well as for priming joint compound after skim coating over existing finishes.
CS is not 'appropriate' in my opinion. pretty toxic when used indoors- that would be my first thought.

My second thought would be that any residual moisture would be more of an issue with oil based primers.
 

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CS is not 'appropriate' in my opinion. pretty toxic when used indoors- that would be my first thought.

My second thought would be that any residual moisture would be more of an issue with oil based primers.
Call me old school, but I’ve only used oil primer on new mud, on level 5 skim only..not on actual raw drywall, as well as on gypsum veneer plaster, except for maybe 3 or so new construction projects in the past 30 + years…best to check the substrate’s MC when using oil & and check pH w/lime plaster.
 

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Short answer: No. dont worry about the moisture reading. Worse case scenario, the primer wont adhere as good as it should. It has nothing to do with mold.
 

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Call me old school, but I’ve only used oil primer on new mud, on level 5 skim only..not on actual raw drywall, as well as on gypsum veneer plaster, except for maybe 3 or so new construction projects in the past 30 + years…best to check the substrate’s MC when using oil & and check pH w/lime plaster.
I could be wrong here, but I think he scraped popcorn, (mistakenly calling it knockdown) and primed with oil to block any water stains.
 
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