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Grants Painting
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have a picky person with cash to spend so cant pass up the job... LOL but i would like some suggestions on the best way to go about it without taking a loss in the money i didn't want to give up.
I plan on a majority of the work being done by brush, but am worried it might end up taking longer than i would want it to. She has 22 cabinets and 12 drawers so its not gonna be easy it's prolly more than i want but need the extra money any or all suggestions are verry appreciated

Thank you : Ry
I did a cabinet job that I could not spray. Removed the doors and sprayed them off site. Then used Glyptex Water Borne Alkyd. Leveled out so well that you could not tell the difference between the doors and the cabinets. However it took quite a few coats cause the stuff didn't cover well at all. I hear thats common among the new WB Alkyds.

It took longer than I thought because of the extra coats and she still complained about the smell... I think I charged around a thousand and took a bit of a bath on it.

Check out the threads on Breakthrough. Its what I will be switching to if I can get it to not set up so quick.
 

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Ive never heard of brusing putty, im about to do some oak cabinets so is it worth trying and whats the principle of using it? Cheers guys
 

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A Brush Above
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Put it on, sand it smooth. Put it on again, sand it smooth. google swedish putty or brushing putty.
 

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Im headed up to Evergreen here today in Colorado to get a Gallon, boy this stuff looks promising.

Brian Finnegan Painter and Decorator
 

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Brian, the price will shock you but its great stuff. When I used it I think I used 10% penetrol. It doesn't level or lay out real well as it is thiiiiiick. Great for getting an old entry door smooth as glass without stripping.
 

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Brian, the price will shock you but its great stuff. When I used it I think I used 10% penetrol. It doesn't level or lay out real well as it is thiiiiiick. Great for getting an old entry door smooth as glass without stripping.
Ken, which brand did you use? Fine Paints of Europe? or another?
 

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Here is the MLC product. It can be reduced enough to spray as well. I didn't give all my secrets away on that oak job I posted pics for. I used a combination of products and prep to get those like that, all of it depends on the primer used. I am not putting that out there for my competitors to read.

A traditional brushing putty is a lot more work.

http://www.mlcampbell.com/products/searchdetail?search=C211314
 

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Flog a Mocker
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Here is the MLC product. It can be reduced enough to spray as well. I didn't give all my secrets away on that oak job I posted pics for. I used a combination of products and prep to get those like that, all of it depends on the primer used. I am not putting that out there for my competitors to read.

A traditional brushing putty is a lot more work.

http://www.mlcampbell.com/products/searchdetail?search=C211314
i thought when I looked into the MLC product that the specs require that it be on raw wood - previous paint must be removed?
 

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We strip most of our repaints. Probably 80% of the stained oak I see the finish is done or no longer hard, and almost scratches off with a scraper. Usually cabinetry from the late 80s or mid 90s.
 

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That Ben Moore Advance paint lays down very nice with a brush or roller. My last attempt to spray it increased my cursing vocabulary by about 23 words. but it works just beautiful with a brush. The lighter shades seem to be more willing to sag a bit more then the darker shades. It makes a great hard finish and probably the best smelling paint I've used.
 
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