[DeanV]

I have always used super spec 253 or the vapor barrier primer on my new homes. The last home I used, I used Graham Ceramic Flat on all the walls (my standard wall paint) and had some issues with flashing/uneven sheen here and there needing 3rd coats on walls with unfriendly lighting from windows. On the next home, I decided to try BM Matte Finish instead, and the flashing/uneven sheen issues were much worse. Spots that were touched up before the final wall coat showed like crazy (shiny spot) on the walls.

Switching to Aura seems to cure the problem, but it seems like a problem we should not be having anyway. I am thinking it is time to switch drywall primers to a top-line primer like freshstart from BM or maybe Zinnser 123 or Waterbase. In repaints, I do not run into these issues. I do not really want to do Aura only and skip priming the drywall since I think that I good spray and back roll of primer help hide drywall seams by giving the walls a nice, even texture on the seams and wallboard. On these homes, I am going through around 70 gallons of primer, so going from Super Spec to a more expensive primer is not insignificant but if it seals up the board a lot better, it would be worth it.

I heard Pittsburgh has a good drywall primer and that should be available in a week or two at my store, Graham's has an Acryplex drywall primer that should be good, or there is always the Bullseye stuff. What products do you guys recommend and has anyone else had issues like this?

 

[tsunamicontract]

I used Behr drywall primer once. (HO had a pail of it and I was like w/e its just drywall primer, how bad can it be)
Never again.
You might want to consider just spraying and backrolling aura first coat, cut and roll second, I would imagine you would save some time and money.

 

[DeanV]

The new homes I am working on have smooth ceilings, usually crown through main floor, and 10 or more wall colors, so spraying the first coat is really not an option.

 

[MAK-Deco]

I haven't had any problems with the SS primer Dean. The last new construction we did was a large basement and it was SS primer with top coat of P&L Redline Aqua Matte and had no flashing issue.
We have another large basement coming up (2k sq ft) and will use SS primer with Aura matte and see how it goes I am hoping for good coverage for the top coat.

 

[slickshift]

As much as I like Freshy and Preppy, 70 gallons for new drywall would send me straight into the arms of Pittsburgh SpeedHide for New Drywall
IMO, one of the most (if not the most) under-rated 'contractor' grade primer/sealers for new drywall out there
Cheap and very effective
Good enough to use on premium projects, I always look forward to having some leftover for other, smaller, jobs

 

[Boden Painting]

I used to use the PPG 5-3 drywall primer until I discovered the SW Masterhide. For new construction it can't be beat and since it is a self-sealing on new drywall it also works great as ceiling and closet paint.

oh, and I think it's cheaper then the Pittsburgh as well.

 

[johnthepainter]

i like speed hide also,,,,,very good and inexpensive,

id shy away from priming entire new contruction with 123 or fresh start,,,,,123 will sand horribly compared to speedhide,,,,,,,,id go with a pva before id go with 123

 

[Dmax Consulting]

Dean,

I used to be a sales representative for Sherwin-Williams. While I worked with them, they acquired Duron. I don't think that you have Duron in Michigan, but now that SW owns them, you may be able to get Duron products sent to your sw store. Duron dominates the new residential market. They have the best touch-up in the industry. Ask your SW rep to get you info on Duron's acrylic drywall primer du-04-124 and Builder's Masterpiece topcoat. This system should should solve your problems. Plus, the products are priced very well. They should each run you less than 10.50/gallon.

 

[YubaPaintPro]

DeanV, not all that uncommon of a problem these days. If you think about it.....

drywall, mud, tape, taping mud, "hot" mud repairs, texture/mud.

If anyone expects any product to look good over all those surfaces w/o being primed, especially a "sheen", they are asking a lot. The drywall industry has used recycled papers for years and that seems to be one of the issues for sure. "Prepcoat" type products were created to protect from the issue you have.

May I suggest the following process and you shouldn't have any problems.
1. Wallboard sealer like a "Prepcoat" product before texturing. We make a great one!
2. Texture
3. PVA sealer, spray & backroll depending on texture
4. Paint

"Evening" the many surfaces before texture is important for the absorption rate of the paint. Without a consistent canvas, the sheen will not look good at all. Hope this is helpful.

123 is "too much" product and absolutely not needed, if you wanted an "all inclusive", I'd use Waterbase. I don't have customers who use it but, I hear good things.

 

[DeanV]

Walls here do not get texture (except what the roller imparts). So, that will not help. I do spray on drywall primer and back roll to try to add a consistent roller stipple texture to the seams and paper. I will have to play around with other primers mentioned here for sure. Thank you guys.

 

[Dougit]

Dean,

I used to be a sales representative for Sherwin-Williams. While I worked with them, they acquired Duron. I don't think that you have Duron in Michigan, but now that SW owns them, you may be able to get Duron products sent to your sw store. Duron dominates the new residential market. They have the best touch-up in the industry. Ask your SW rep to get you info on Duron's acrylic drywall primer du-04-124 and Builder's Masterpiece topcoat. This system should should solve your problems. Plus, the products are priced very well. They should each run you less than 10.50/gallon.

I'm doing a 1700 sq.ft. new house. Going to prime new drywall with SW Masterhide. Will I get 300 ft. of covering or 400 ft. like the colored paints? Trying to figure out how much primer to get!! Doug from Tennessee

 

[PVPainter]

70 gals, wow. I myself am a Master Hide fan. Its a cheaper product with high end qualities so both the builder and I are happy. Seeing that I use it for NC I have it in the van, and use it for most latex ceilings that I do, and love it, touches up awsome, finishes so evenly you could put it on blindfolded, and you can practically sand it by rubbing your hand over it.

Doug, the houses I do are usually about 3300-3500 sq ft and I go through about 40-50 gallons doing the following.

2 coats ceilings & walls in 2 car garage
2 coats ceilings (flat)
2 coats closets
1 coat walls

 

[yacob]

muralo 563 over here in the north east ,so far the best even better than sw and bm.

 

[plainpainter]

How does the 563 compare to the 2205 universal primer in your opinion? Is 2205 'too much' primer perhaps?

 

[MAK-Deco]

How does the 563 compare to the 2205 universal primer in your opinion? Is 2205 'too much' primer perhaps?

I just used some 2205 on some new drywall and I would say it was too much.. But I had it left over from something prior.

 

[Charles]

Try the Sherwin Williams Builders Solution. We use the whole system and it rocks!!! Primer and finish, it's amazing on new drywall. Making touch ups blend in becomes a thing of the past with this line. I was really impressed. I wont use anything else in new construction. You should read up on it.

 

[Mantis]

Try the Sherwin Williams Builders Solution. We use the whole system and it rocks!!! Primer and finish, it's amazing on new drywall. Making touch ups blend in becomes a thing of the past with this line. I was really impressed. I wont use anything else in new construction. You should read up on it.

We used Builder's Solution on 3 trial houses for a builder. Complete crap in my opinion. The 'primer' is actually a surfacer which must be sprayed and doesnt lay as well as other surfacers. If a primer/surfacer is what a customer wants, i generally use USG First Coat. The Builder's Solution finish paint is a chaulky mess. It's a $15/gallon cheap paint that will burnish if you look at it funny and it has virtually no washability. I hate the stuff! Not that I have an opinion or anything

Dean, you and I both know what new res is looking like in this area right now. You're looking for the best bang for your buck that will still cover well and provide a barrier for your finish paint. We're still priming with SW Prep-rite 200. Although I was talking with some local guys who are swearing by the new Speedhide primer, I guess it's a few bucks cheaper per fiver. I'm gonna have to give that a shot.

 

[Charles]

We used Builder's Solution on 3 trial houses for a builder. Complete crap in my opinion. The 'primer' is actually a surfacer which must be sprayed and doesnt lay as well as other surfacers. If a primer/surfacer is what a customer wants, i generally use USG First Coat. The Builder's Solution finish paint is a chaulky mess. It's a $15/gallon cheap paint that will burnish if you look at it funny and it has virtually no washability. I hate the stuff! Not that I have an opinion or anything

Dean, you and I both know what new res is looking like in this area right now. You're looking for the best bang for your buck that will still cover well and provide a barrier for your finish paint. We're still priming with SW Prep-rite 200. Although I was talking with some local guys who are swearing by the new Speedhide primer, I guess it's a few bucks cheaper per fiver. I'm gonna have to give that a shot.

Are you sure you used Builders Solution? Its totally washable! And touch ups are flawless. No repainting walls with the Builders Solutions. We do high volume projects and this paint is saving me a fortune because of the touch ups. Really good stuff!

 

[spayer48]

I always sw problock. never had a problem. 13.5 per gal. someone tell me about masterhide. why would it be better.
with pro block i normally use 45 gal , 3200 sq ft. spray and back roll.
mark

 

[CobraCDN]

Ummm I'm not familiar with a lot of the products you good folks use.. but up here we use sealer not primer. As for my 20 + years experience primers are the wrong product for new drywall. Sealers tend to penetrate more and will seal off well.. then your successive finishcoats with backrolling (if your spraying) will produce a more uniform finish on your walls... you won't see the mudlines. You can find High Hide sealer if you don't like the see thru look of a sealer... but if your using a 3 coat system a hide hide sealer is not required. I also half tint our sealer to the finishcoat color.

Just my 2 cents (Canadian lol)
Cheers