[nicolob]

Eliminate as much masking as possible?

Hi NicoloB! Welcome to Paint Talk!
I'm not quite sure what problems you are eluding to.
Haloing? Could be a problem if you're planning on spraying 1 coat of finish i guess.
Ahesion? We pole sand (no i havent bought a damned 360 yet!) the walls before we brush and roll. Sanding the overspray knocks the sheen off the semi and the wall paint has no problem sticking where it needs to stick. Now we have had issues with tape pulling the wall paint off due to improper scuff sanding, take a piece of paper to the areas your stick cant reach and you'll be fine.

Mantis,
Thanks for responding

10. Spray finish coat on trim.
11. Finish ceilings
12. Brush/Roll finish coat(s) on walls

In your sequence for new construction, I am trying to eliminate as
much masking as possible and if I can do step
10. Spray finish coat on trim,
without masking off walls that would save a lot of time?
I am using an HVLP for the trim, I know it is slower than airless but I
think I get lot less overspray on everything.

What I am wondering is when I do spray and finish the trim, can I eliminate masking off walls, and proceed to step 11 and step 12
Brush/Roll finish coat(s) on walls with out having any problem with
any trim overspray flashing through wall paint because I did not mask
for trim spray? I am using Sherwin Williams water based Pro-
Classic semi for the Trim, and flat ProMar-400 for walls.


Thank you,
Nicolo B

 

[Workaholic]

What I am wondering is when I do spray and finish the trim, can I eliminate masking off walls, and proceed to step 11 and step 12
Brush/Roll finish coat(s) on walls with out having any problem with
any trim overspray flashing through wall paint because I did not mask
for trim spray? I am using Sherwin Williams water based Pro-
Classic semi for the Trim, and flat ProMar-400 for walls.

Yes you will be fine. i like to sand around the wall around the trim after primer and after finish before cutting in and rolling.

 

[WisePainter]

Yes you will be fine. i like to sand around the wall around the trim after primer and after finish before cutting in and rolling.

When I was new I didn't understand sanding the oil trim paint that was on the wall before painting until I pulled the tape and a huge sheet of wall paint lifted.

 

[Workaholic]

When I was new I didn't understand sanding the oil trim paint that was on the wall before painting until I pulled the tape and a huge sheet of wall paint lifted.

That is the kind of lesson that sticks with you forever. You are going to have to give up that oil one day.

 

[ewingpainting.net]

That is the kind of lesson that sticks with you forever. You are going to have to give up that oil one day.

I gave oil up bout a year ago. The new water based blows the oils away.

 

[Workaholic]

I gave oil up bout a year ago. The new water based blows the oils away.

I gave up oil in 06. I still like oil but the waterbourne acrylics are totaly fine without the extra hassles and expenses.

 

[WisePainter]

That is the kind of lesson that sticks with you forever. You are going to have to give up that oil one day.

I gave oil up bout a year ago. The new water based blows the oils away.

Soon my SW rep will demo some new water based alternatives. I am curious but worried about applying them because I am so used to the way oil sprays.

 

[Workaholic]

Soon my SW rep will demo some new water based alternatives. I am curious but worried about applying them because I am so used to the way oil sprays.

You will get used to it just like a lot of us did.

 

[Mantis]

Mantis,
Thanks for responding

10. Spray finish coat on trim.
11. Finish ceilings
12. Brush/Roll finish coat(s) on walls

In your sequence for new construction, I am trying to eliminate as
much masking as possible and if I can do step
10. Spray finish coat on trim,
without masking off walls that would save a lot of time?
I am using an HVLP for the trim, I know it is slower than airless but I
think I get lot less overspray on everything.

What I am wondering is when I do spray and finish the trim, can I eliminate masking off walls, and proceed to step 11 and step 12
Brush/Roll finish coat(s) on walls with out having any problem with
any trim overspray flashing through wall paint because I did not mask
for trim spray? I am using Sherwin Williams water based Pro-
Classic semi for the Trim, and flat ProMar-400 for walls.


Thank you,
Nicolo B

There is no need to mask your walls before spraying trim. We use Pro Classic semi for our trim finish almost exclusively. I was spraying it today as a matter of fact! You will have absolutely no problem with it flashing through your wall paint. Just as I said earlier, make sure you give the overspray a good scuffing when you sand your walls, apply 2 coats of wall finish, and you'll be fine. Zero flashing.

I think an HVLP is overkill for spraying a house full of latex trim. Though my biggest concern is your choice in wall paint. You seem to want a fine finish on your walls, and you're using a great product for it, so why go to the bottom of the barrel for wall finish? Talk to your rep and see if they can get you some good prcing on SW Cashmere instead.

 

[nicolob]

There is no need to mask your walls before spraying trim. We use Pro Classic semi for our trim finish almost exclusively. I was spraying it today as a matter of fact! You will have absolutely no problem with it flashing through your wall paint. Just as I said earlier, make sure you give the overspray a good scuffing when you sand your walls, apply 2 coats of wall finish, and you'll be fine. Zero flashing.

I think an HVLP is overkill for spraying a house full of latex trim. Though my biggest concern is your choice in wall paint. You seem to want a fine finish on your walls, and you're using a great product for it, so why go to the bottom of the barrel for wall finish? Talk to your rep and see if they can get you some good prcing on SW Cashmere instead.

Thanks again Mantis,

I only used the Pro-Mar 400 extra white for the ceilings only, because
it seems to be flat deader than Pro-Mar 200 or SW Interior Superpaint.

I will either use Pro-Mar 200 or SW Superpaint for walls, both Flat.
You are right the Pro-Mar 400 for walls is not in the same class as the
Pro-Classics and SW Cashmere.

Also, I'll let you know how this turns out when I get there.


NicoloB

 

[RCP]

I know but I'm no hack. You wrote: "Jack - In all seriousness, Your 'ideas' are probably a little ahead of their time". No, the way I see it, the norm like what maybe you are referring to is primitive to me.

Its funny though. I've been posting for over 10 years on these boards. I've been dealing with this exact same thing over and over on every board I post. The stuff I posted 10 years ago is basically the same stuff I post now with slight variations, tweaks. What I dont think anyone realizes is my stuff is copied and posted everywhere by others so I find it hard to believe NEPS has a clue. Whats odd is, the emails and PM's I get are the opposite reaction to what I get on these boards.

I get the exact same crap from guys at the PS too until I end up working with them on their job. Then their reaction is "dude, I thought you were full of ****". None of them take me serious at first and the reason is what I do is insane in comparison to their best day, seriously insane. I do in 70-80 hrs what their crew of 7 does in 346+ hours. Hey NEPS, if you are not interested on how thats possible then keep your mouth shut because others want to know. You have to inject your crap on all the good threads and clutter them up.

Where do you think the whole "HOME SERVICES" came from? You see that everywhere now, Home Depot, Maids, etc. Guys straight up rip my old websites and make it their own. Hell they even copy the company name too.

Anyway, I dont do anything traditional in this business, you cant possibly comprehend my frustration with the tools I had to use developing my systems. This is why when the Wooster Alpha came out, I said, "Finally, a brush that's made for power users" and "The Alpha truly makes me feel as if I own a quality professional tool of the trade".<The first. Why would I follow in the footsteps of constant failure, I'm not oblivious to what others do, its my business to know.. and I'm not oblivious to the impact I've made over the years on these forums. Might sound a little or a lot pat-on-the-back, but thats the honest truth of it. NEPS doesnt mean a damn thing to me, he's just another loud mouth, I deal with his kind all to often. NEPS is the epitome of the sterotypical painter. Join him.

I have to give you credit for tenacity!

 

[Metro M & L]

30 man hours, what kind of sq ft are we talking here???

Sq. ft? Thirty

 

[Workaholic]

Sq. ft? Thirty

Huh?

 

[RCP]

Sq. ft? Thirty

Welcome to the site Metro, feel free to post an intro here- http://www.painttalk.com/f3/ and tell us about yourself!

I am not sure what you are saying, I would be happy to answer if you are asking a question? I think you are referencing a question to one of my posts.

 

[ScottyDaRoach]

Now I am a contractor, not a painter. Correct me if I am wrong, but I have been told by many of my painters that if you finish spray the trim with any gloss it will affect how your flat goes on the wall, where it overlaps. Thanks

 

[Workaholic]

Now I am a contractor, not a painter. Correct me if I am wrong, but I have been told by many of my painters that if you finish spray the trim with any gloss it will affect how your flat goes on the wall, where it overlaps. Thanks

A good scuff sand will usually take care of potential flashing problems. On the flip side of that always trust your painters. :whistling2:

Are you a GC or a painting contractor that is more business man?

 

[MAK-Deco]

When we go in and put the first "real" coat of paint on the wall for a newer home its funny paints like Aura will dry slower around the windows and doors and see exactly where the gloss was sprayed on doors and windows.. It drys out fine and you can't tell...

 

[Workaholic]

When we go in and put the first "real" coat of paint on the wall for a newer home its funny paints like Aura will dry slower around the windows and doors and see exactly where the gloss was sprayed on doors and windows.. It drys out fine and you can't tell...

Yep, I suppose it would look nerve racking to the unknowing.

 

[csbeepee]

1. After drywallers leave, prime and shoot ceilings

Let trim carpenters do their thing and go somewhere else for a couple weeks.

2. Now that trim is installed, fill and sand all the nail holes.
3. Prime trim
4. Caulk and look over all nail holes, fix imperfections in trim.
5. Spray first finish coat.
6. Light up and fix any imperfection in trim, caulk, nail holes, etc
7. Spray 2nd coat on trim.
8. Paint walls 2 coats

Dean,

Great sequence! I'm assuming this is a two color scheme (ceiling/walls). If you were doing a single color wall/ceiling, would you just shoot them at the same time? Roll second coat or shoot them both and come back for touch up later?

How many man hours to finish?

 

[DeanV]

Our new construction project tend to be larger custom homes with many difference wall colors. We do not put finish on walls before doing the trim.


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