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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Has anyone had experience with a type of fire retardant coating from a company called No-Burn. I am about to embark on a job that calls for it on a house that is mostly all stucco with some broad trim and sided gables and eaves. This neighborhood where the house is located does not seem to be a high risk for wildfire danger but apparently there is an insurance incentive. I guess my question would be if there are any pitfalls as far as application procedures.

http://noburn.com/products/no-burn-original
 

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Ive never heard of this stuff but Im interested to know how it reacts to existing products on structures. Im wondering if once you apply this, is it the final coat or can you re-stain or clear-coat over it? Does it play well with others? I emailed them to send me an info packet. Thanks, this could be another great sell to remote Log home owners.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
To add, this job is spec'd to have a clear coat applied after NB and was cleared by the No-Burn rep. A clear coating product by Frazee paint company was chosen. Also the job has a coat of stain that is existing.
 

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Hey hd this is slightly off topic but have you notice that frazees materials and supplies have been going straight down hill since being bought out by comex ( mexican owned paint co.). I used frazee for years and loved it but after a few bad experiences latetly I won't go near the stuff ever again. A couple a months ago I painted a whole house in majestic, (their supposed high end flat) and had to apply three coats in some areas where 2 would have almost been overkill in the past with that same product. Cost me money and time and it cost frazee a lifetime customer.......
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Update: Have had some problems with this product leaving a powdery residue. The sealer did not cover it so my partner and I are thinking of power washing it off. Hindsight is we should of done some better testing but time ran short and we just crossed our toes. Lesson learned.

I really could see this as a fire retarder for maybe a fence or under decking, but house painting with it is questionable. By the way this product was over $130.00 a gallon and only comes in 5's.
 

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Epoxy Dude
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What you have is a coating that is filled as much as possible with Flame Retardants. The typical blend is Petarithritol, Ammonium Phosphate, and Melamine. To get a good rating you need to really pack the coating full. That makes it hard to have a high gloss. It also means that since the coating is starved for resin there is very little surface resin to hold the solids in the coating... so... you get a powdery surface.

You may have better luck with the clean by doing it in two coats and diluting the first coat with water as much as possible.
 

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This product is starting to sound like its more of a PITA then its worth. Its a great concept but it sounds like it needs refining & tweaking for widespread painting applications.Thanks for the latest info you guys.:yes:
 

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guymandude
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i have not used this particular paint but i did use a fire preventative product i got from sw and it was just like paint. i sprayed it on the rafters over an oven in a restaurant. the store explained to me that i could topcoat with regular paint. they sed when it gets hot it expands like foam and protects the wood or drywall or whatever, and the paint on top expands with it. i think i paid about 75.00 a gallon for this stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So we finished the job and got lucky in that it was a beach house where the decorator actually liked the whiting areas in that it helped it look more like driftwood. I noticed though that you could control the whiting by wiping it down with a rag after brushing. I do not think I would do it again on painted wood because of this issue.
 

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Dan & Tim Adams
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An low cost alternative to No Burn

I Hate Home Depot & Brush Monkey

The white powder is effervescent coming thru the paint. Surfactant leaching is not uncommon. Some enamels take up to 30 days to form a hard shell. A wet cloth will usually remove any streaking or spotting. Spraying with water or a sponging with a mild dishwashing soap also works. After the leaching is removed it does not return. If it is an exterior paint the elements can take remove it within a few months. I don't recommend covering with a clear coat but works GREAT with any flat paint or in primer. If an enamel finish is desired use as a top coat over the enhanced primer.

That 5 Gallons of No Burn cost you $650.00! :eek: We have a patent pending additive that you add to acrylic based products. Cool It is extremely reasonable at a fraction of the cost. The additive for 5 gallons increases the volume of paint by about 15% after mixing.

I can paint the cardboard core from a paper towel roll, or on a 5 gallon paint stick, apply 30 mils wet / dries around 18 mils. I placed my fingers inside the roll a "Canadian" penny on top, and apply the flame from a blow torch with map gas ... The penny melts from the 1,300 degree flame but, the cardboard does not burn (it will char) and my fingers don't even feel the heat from the torch. (My attorney does not recommend any untrained professional from attempting this, but my website video is always predicable informing potential client. We also have a facebook page
 

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Dan & Tim Adams
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Painting with a return on investment

Wise Guys Painting
We have found new application by spraying inside of attics on the untreated plywood. Think about it no one complains about the color in their attic. No one scrutinizes if the paint runs or is not perfect. This was recommended to us by Southern California Fire Department personnel. Our material is also a thermal insulator so it prevents heat from penetrating as much in the summer and escaping in the winter. Enhancing paint with our material, helps pay provide a ROI thru energy savings. We can use both for interiors and exterior applications.
We just finished painting a 1941 home that was originally owned by Dean Martin. We painted the exterior with the same color paint. The current client works out of this home and he informed us that his AC would normally start up around 10 am and go off around 10 pm. His AC doesn’t start up until 3 pm now. AC and heating account for almost 50% of most utility bills. I have clients who save their energy bills for us to show the energy reduction. One client showed a 25% reduction in usage, but this was all from tier three level pricing which is twice the expensive of tier one. Our material is made in the USA and has NO VOC's
 
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