Just use the quick dry caulk and hit it twice...

 

Tower tech or big stretch both don't shrink, in fact both will expand with the gaps. Both are a bit expensive bit its all we use now. DAP is crap, always having shrinking issues.

 

DAP really has turned to crap. I used Alex+ since the first day I started painting. It was great for years, then about 5 years ago it turned to junk. Runny, would continually goop out of the tube upon opening, air bubbles galore, shrinks, etc. I ended up trying some of DAPs other stuff, same thing.

They really shot themselves in the foot.

 

Caulk is only flexible. Sealants have elongation and memory. The better sealants adhere to ASTM standards for elongation and memory properties. My favorite is Tower Tech II. Has excellent adhesion, elongation and memory properties, and tools very well. Since it was 1960's vintage, the building as acclimated and should receive an elastomeric acrylic urethane sealant well and easily withstand a 3/16 gap. Tower Tech also gives substantial linear feet per tube over cheaper caulks. Big Stretch works well too but doesn't have the tooling properties of TT II. Check the technical data sheets. Sealants are formulated for dissimilar surfaces. Caulks only work for similar parallel surfaces with little movement. A V shaped cavity is best but a parallel cavity is ok too.

 

Tower tech II has been my full time caulk for about the last five years or so. Really good product IMO - never had a failure or problem yet with the stuff. Fairly reasonabible cost wise too.

 

I'd follow the advice of @NACE and use Tower Tech II. It's a little more expensive, but it works very well.


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A good elastomeric is the only thing I will use. Used the Tower Tech but it's now been replaced locally for the Allpro label. Either way I will usually just caulk twice or if 1/4 in or more use backer rod.

 

Thanks @NACE for his post. I have been using the Tower Tech stuff since White Lightening was bought by SW. Mainly the Tech II stuff and the fast dry Accelerator (I like how it tools for interior trim).

Now that a local store carries the colors of Tech II it is all we use outside.

 

A good rule of the thumb is to "work smarter not harder". I use Sherwin-Williams 850A Acrylic Latex Caulk from baseboards to gaps where carports meet siding. At times I see 1/2 inch gaps I just cut off a mean sized tip and will drop a whole tube if needed. Been doing it for years. With Oklahoma City having 4 seasons and many tremors do to fracking I have not had 1 complaint.

 

This sounds like cutting corners, not working smarter. What if they're not complaining because they're hiring someone else?

 

Every caulk shrinks. I use backer rod if the crack is big and caulk twice if necessary.


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@Showtime I'm all for working smarter, not harder. Cutting a huge hole in the tip might get the job done faster, but it's not the correct way to fill a large gap.

If you read the data sheet for 850A it's says gaps should be no more than 1/2" wide or deep. It also says that it's best used in areas of low joint movement and is commonly used for interior applications.


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What's a data sheet and when did I mentioned using it in gaps >1/2"'s :whistling2: Acrylic Latex is used for both indoor and outdoor my man. Does it say that in the "data sheet". If not than Sherwin Williams is wrong and I'm right lol. Anyways, My point is that's its very flexible and I have not had any complaints.

It's important at the initial walk though to "up-sale" by recommending the most efficient and professional way to do something. Of course cutting a piece of material to fit in a gap would be mentioned at the initial walk through. I will simply ask if they would like me to fill it with caulking as a freebie. This approach doesn't get proposed on a bid and is not charged because it voids their 2 Year Warranty. Your missing the whole fact here.

 

I do the same thing only with quick dry caulk. Cut a huge hole, load it up and use it as backer for a finish bead. Sometimes in less than ideal situations, ya gotta use less than ideal methods.thats been my experience anyway....the alternative is to install the base better....maybe a better style of base or a better application method? Don't know, can't see the project.
"A little caulk, a little paint, makes a Carpenter what he ain't!"

 

Having just installed some new base in a bathroom (replacing mdf trim with real wood) for a customer, I have to say it may not always be the finish carpenter's fault. When the walls and their corners are messed up due to poor framing or sheetrock work (or both) it's pretty tough to lay down a decent baseboard job without the assist of caulk.

 

Is it really free if it costs the customer a 2-year warranty?