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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had to do one of the fancy swirled ceilings today. Clearly, it was NOT plaster. The paint melted both the previous paint and the "plaster" underneath. Has any one deal with such a monster. You know the drill: the unprimed paint wants to roll off on the roller sleeve. How on earth do I deal with this?!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That won't stop the blistering and peeling unless one used oils and that was not an option here. It looked fine when I first finised. I rolled lightly and came back a few hours later and it was blistering and peeling like crazy. It looks like one of those ancient, uncared for villas where the ceilings are all crazed and peeling. The worst is it affected the substrate and plaster is generally fine with a little moisture. You really need to soak real plaster to make it soft like that. I have never encounted anything like this in over 45 years!
 

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That won't stop the blistering and peeling unless one used oils and that was not an option here. It looked fine when I first finised. I rolled lightly and came back a few hours later and it was blistering and peeling like crazy. It looks like one of those ancient, uncared for villas where the ceilings are all crazed and peeling. The worst is it affected the substrate and plaster is generally fine with a little moisture. You really need to soak real plaster to make it soft like that. I have never encounted anything like this in over 45 years!
Could you take a few pics? I'm having a hard time picturing exactly what's going on. What products did you use? How old is the home? Can you provide a pic of one of their ceilings which hasn't been touched yet? Does wiping your hand across the ceiling result in chalky residue on your hand? Can you take a dark colored rag and wipe over it and note the amount of residue on the rag? Next, can you wet the rag, wipe the ceiling, and state whether or not the ceiling gets gummy and whether or not more residue is released on the rag when wiped wet vs dry? I know you've had a lot of painting experience, but have you had to deal with a lot of calcimine ceilings? With the limited info I know so far, that would be my guess as to what you're most likely dealing with here.
 

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Have you got your hands on any Draw Tite yet? Ive got my SW stocking it for me. So much better to work with than Gardz...
I have wanted to try Draw-Tite ever since De Arch mentioned it. What are the differences between it and Guardz that make it worth the extra bucks?

futtyos
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Can anyone guess what my response to this will be?

futtyos
Yup, you should sell that stuff. Unfortunately, one expects ceilings to have been sealed and primed prior to the first painting. Once I knew I was in trouble, I left it for 24 to dry out and see how extensive the damage would be before attempting to rework it.
 

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Yup, you should sell that stuff. Unfortunately, one expects ceilings to have been sealed and primed prior to the first painting. Once I knew I was in trouble, I left it for 24 to dry out and see how extensive the damage would be before attempting to rework it.
Obviously, hindsight is 20/20. I looked at painting an interior a few years ago before I knew about Gardz. It was the original contractor's paint on ceilings and walls. I had a feeling that at the very least the water in any paint applied to ceilings or walls would get sucked up instantly; at worst the old paint might start dissolving when new paint was applied. Gardz would have soaked through the old paint and bound it to the drywall and sealed the surface. If a surface is not sealed, Gardz will soak through and make the surface darker as water will sort of darken a dry white t-shirt, then dries back to the original color.

futtyos
 

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I have wanted to try Draw-Tite ever since De Arch mentioned it. What are the differences between it and Guardz that make it worth the extra bucks?

futtyos
Well, it doesnt smell like Gardz. It also comes in different flavors. The regular clear, is basically gardz that doesnt stink as much. That, right there is worth the money in my book.

The No-Run, which is my favorite. Its got a shaving cream like consistancy, that liquifies when you put it on the wall. Its strange, but good, as it holds on to the roller, or brush and doesnt drip all over. It also has little more build to it.

The White version. Its quite a bit thicker. IDK if it penetrates quite as good as the other stuff, but it seems okay. It reminds me of sheildz. I use it when I float dark walls, as some of that color always shows through after sanding, so if Im hanging something thin and white, I prime with something white to make sure it doesnt show through the paper.

And they have 0 VOC version which I havent tried yet.

Am paying about $35 a gallon for the clear, and a buck or two more for the others. I only go through a gallon a week MAYBE, so price isnt a concern for me, but I dont get the best price on Gardz either About $30.

Call your cities Sherwin Commercial Store and see if they'll get it for you. Its under Scotch Paints. They are distributing more nowadays. Once the commercial store gets it, you can bring that pricing and info to the one closest to you.
 

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I have had a similar problem with popcorn ceilings. They react the same way. When you try to roll it, the ceiling just comes off on your roller. We used an oil flat finish and that worked.
 

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I have had a similar problem with popcorn ceilings. They react the same way. When you try to roll it, the ceiling just comes off on your roller. We used an oil flat finish and that worked.
Yea we used to use BM sani-flat oil on all those ceilings. Talk about splatter!
 
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