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· Banned
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I wonder if some of you contractors can help me out there? Do you still use oil based paints for your trim and doors? I still do as the finish and flow qualities of new water based paints just don't come up to scratch. My clients like to see a mirror finish on their doors and trim with no brush marks. Until the manufacturers can match that in a water wash up then I'm afraid oil based is still the go for me.:thumbup:
 

· PinheadsUnite
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Today's oils have been castrated, the VOC laws dictate that they dry a LOT quicker than years past, thus dissallowing the natural leveling of a slow dry.

Also, today's oils yellow a lot quicker. Until the manufacturers can match the qualities today the oils had of yesteryear, many will use the environmentally safer coatings.

As PWG and Eric say, waterborne Satin Impervo is the best replacement, but there is a learning curve and correct brush choice is imperitive.

ALSO, in many situations, the adhesive properties and the flexibilty of acrylic resins make it a better choice.

If you want an absolute mirror finish with absolutely no brush marks, blow and go high gloss laquer.

In the old days we would add a little raw linssed to trim oils to retard drying, boost sheen, and increase flowability.
 

· me paint pretty one day
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I agree with daArch's post. But, I am a different position from some. My painting business started out as a hobby working for some friends in the neighborhood. They wanted oil trim but didn't want to mess with it themselves; that;s where I came in. I focus on trim painted with oil. I don't do walls only trim. If they want something else (latex) I don't take the job. My oil painted trim hobby business is booked for the next 11 months.

I would like to do a few handpicked latex jobs; but until I can get a product to lay down like oil I will have to pass. If or when I can't use oil I will probably quit and do somrthing else. At that point it would turn into work.
 

· Registered
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As PWG and Eric say, waterborne Satin Impervo is the best replacement, but there is a learning curve and correct brush choice is imperitive.
What is your brush of choice?

I tried this product last week and will use again this week. I like the way it looks, I used a Wooster 3" angle sash, I think it was a "firm" or something like that.
 

· me paint pretty one day
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182 Posts
I thought about what I said about finding "a latex that will lay down like oil". I have to find a product that I can lay down like oil. I have done a few small latex jobs and used BM AquaGlo and BM Water Impervo. Both are good but I am lacking in practice and technique. Oh teach me great ones.
 

· PinheadsUnite
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I used an old Wooster 2 1/2" angled Lindbeck. One of the more modern brushes would have been more appropriate.

BTW welove, I stopped using the term "latex" when (I think it was PWG) informed me that "latex" specifically refers to a rubber. Although it has become a generic term, it is not specific enough now that we have all sorts of resins. And if we professionals can't be accurate in our nomenclature, then who can be?

And Benny Moore does call it WATERBORNE Satin Impervo, not "LATEX" Satin Impervo. Just FYI.
 

· The Lurker
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Muralo's waterborne blows Moores away I know most for you guys don't have access to it but man I wish you could try it. Welove maybe you can get it in Ohio not sure.

As for waterborne products I like to use a soft 100% nylon - I use Wooster pro soft 2 1/2 or 3 in angle
 

· House Painting Reading PA
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419 Posts
Muralo's waterborne blows Moores away I know most for you guys don't have access to it but man I wish you could try it. Welove maybe you can get it in Ohio not sure.

As for waterborne products I like to use a soft 100% nylon - I use Wooster pro soft 2 1/2 or 3 in angle
This is all I use to this point ad it is great stuff. Your right about it being better than Moores version althought I still use the 3 inch angle Purdy.

I like woosters for any stain/sealers/varnishes only.
 

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Oil for me

I still like oil, I can apply it faster and it looks better. I do use water borne enamels when there are kids around since the VOC's in oil based paint take a bit longer to flash off. Not saying that there isn't bad stuff in the water bornes like alcohols and ammonia but this stuff seems to flash off quicker.
 

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You know, I made a fool of myself on a job today.

One reason is that there is NO muralo within 25 miles and NO Benjamin Moore within 50 miles, according to both sites' dealer locator.

I'm not familiar with frazee and not liking what I've seen of them so far.

Anyone know of frazee paint equivilant to the paints mentioned above?

What about Dunn/Edwards? Everybody is a @#%*(@# salesman these days and can't even answer the simplest tech questions. They read the same literature I read, and don't really know the products.
With paint co.s crying right now, you'd think they would get the hint, and up the real info instead of trying to sell a 25 yr. journeyman painter.
 

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Joe, read your other post on Ramuc. Hope you find the right product/process. I can't help you w/ your brush stroke Q, however, keep Larry's #. Don't hesitate to call him.

If I were in your area, the only 2 suppliers I would use are DE and SW. In that order. DE is a west coast company and similar to KM in that we are manuf's that really care about the product in the bucket. F certainly has products that work, but...........

Sorry, your rep's are reading the same Tech Data Sheets you are. Buy from the rep you trust!
 

· Born To Be Mild
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Muralo's waterborne blows Moores away I know most for you guys don't have access to it but man I wish you could try it. Welove maybe you can get it in Ohio not sure.

As for waterborne products I like to use a soft 100% nylon - I use Wooster pro soft 2 1/2 or 3 in angle
If you read the posts on here you already know how strongly I agree with MAK on the Muralo. I replaced SW Pro Classic with it. IMHO a little water or Flowtrol added and a Chinex brush and WOW!
 

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All of the new LOW VOC paints drag a little and can become ropey in the right conditions. Using Latex X-Tender helps a lot to lay down a smooth finish and fix the ropiness. For those who can still use oil, XIM makes a product called X-Tender (11032) which does not yellow and it flows out brush strokes beautifully. It is hard to find and usually a special order product at your professional paint store. Painters who use it generally don't tell anybody because it is one of their little tricks.
 
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