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Oil Based Paints

10386 Views 33 Replies 19 Participants Last post by  Basil Brush
I wonder if some of you contractors can help me out there? Do you still use oil based paints for your trim and doors? I still do as the finish and flow qualities of new water based paints just don't come up to scratch. My clients like to see a mirror finish on their doors and trim with no brush marks. Until the manufacturers can match that in a water wash up then I'm afraid oil based is still the go for me.:thumbup:
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What is your brush of choice?

I tried this product last week and will use again this week. I like the way it looks, I used a Wooster 3" angle sash, I think it was a "firm" or something like that.
I thought about what I said about finding "a latex that will lay down like oil". I have to find a product that I can lay down like oil. I have done a few small latex jobs and used BM AquaGlo and BM Water Impervo. Both are good but I am lacking in practice and technique. Oh teach me great ones.
I don't consider myself one of the "great ones," but here goes:
On a large surface, like doors or cabinets, I'll roll out the waterborne satin impervo with a 4" wooster pro dooz sausage type roller, then back brush it with my wooster extra firm trim brush. Smaller surfaces just get the brush. I've tried other "softer" brushes and they are a pain to work with and don't seem to provide any smoother of a surface. Practice with it before using it at a customers home, as it takes some getting used to, as it will sag and drip like crazy as it dries if you apply too heavy of a coat.
I agree waterbornes will sag if not watched while applying but look great when dry. I still like the softer brush doesn't drag the product as much imo.
I agree waterbornes will sag if not watched while applying but look great when dry. I still like the softer brush doesn't drag the product as much imo.
And this is the part of the technology of paint that really has me baffled. I can not remember the last time I had a sag with oil, but with waterbornes one needs to be careful. Logic (at least on my planet) says that the quicker a coating dries, the less chance of sags. So right away I think it must be the thickness and the weight of the waterbornes, cause we all know that waterbornes are applied thicker than most solvent based, and therefore apt to sag. BUT, what about lacquer? Sprayed lacquer is thinner, lighter in weight, and dries quick YET more apt to sag than most anything else.

As I said, part of the technology that baffles me.
As I said, part of the technology that baffles me.

Me too, I hope someone has an answer.
I always spray Sw proclassic waterborne. Like I always say would you like your car sprayed or brush and roll. Then we tape off everything with a smal reveal on the trim,then caulk and brush and roll the walls. Pull the tape that leaves a laser line that can't be duplicated by hand and is twice as fast. Try it once
I always spray Sw proclassic waterborne. Like I always say would you like your car sprayed or brush and roll. Then we tape off everything with a smal reveal on the trim,then caulk and brush and roll the walls. Pull the tape that leaves a laser line that can't be duplicated by hand and is twice as fast. Try it once
Are you doing that on repaints? with furniture in the room and people living in the house while your working? :no:
Pull the tape that leaves a laser line that can't be duplicated by hand and is twice as fast.
Now them right there, thems fightin words!
3
Now them right there, thems fightin words!
Scott, I don think he's from 'round heah


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Bill

The least we can do is have Timhag come in and post the thread where we discussed freehand vs. tape, so we dont have to have that fight all over again. Old guys like you and me can only take that kind of stress every so often!
...My clients like to see a mirror finish on their doors and trim with no brush marks...
Tell them to have their trim powder coated

I prefer a few brush marks
Let's 'em know it's hand crafted
Anything else may just as well be Chinese plastic trim, or baked in an oven somewhere

I know a guy that will spray trim for quicker production, and then will go back and put brush marks into the work

:thumbsup:

Aaaaanywaaay....
Yes I still enjoy working with oils
Truthfully the waterbornes have come a long way
And the oils have been de-spec'd to stay on the market
There's not a heck of a lot of difference between them (with 'comparable' products, such as WB Perv to Alkyd Perv)
There is still, however, a slight edge to the oils, with a short hair backwards for the yellowing in the lack of sunlight
(though that can be a real classic look also, and impossible to get with WBs)
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I know a guy that will spray trim for quicker production, and then will go back and put brush marks into the work
I know some like that also.

IMO, I despise the look of sprayed trim, The slight brush marks give grain. And with the cheap pressed "wood" hollow core Christian doors, some brush marks give the appearance of wood - unless of course a hack did it who don't know how to brush a paneled door.
I tried doing the add brush marks to a sample cabinet door once, but I had sprayed it with cabinet coat and they just flowed right back out.
Can you tell me more about cabinet coat? Is it a finish coat or a primer coat?

Why did the brush marks just flow out?

Someone told me that extender changes the paint color. It caught me off guard, because I used to believe the same thing. Now I don't think so.

What do you think?
In the old days we would add a little raw linssed to trim oils to retard drying, boost sheen, and increase flowability.
Now that sounds like the very thing for me .... What sort of ratio (in general) would you use?
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