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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok so Im using oil based paint and ive gotten solvent pop. someone told me Butyl cellosolve would be the solution explaining to me that the paint im using has many fast evaporators in it and the cellosolve will prevent the dry skimming and solvent bubbles being trapped underneath. however i can't find anywhere if cellosolve can be used with oil based paint. suggestions?
 

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Ok so Im using oil based paint and ive gotten solvent pop. someone told me Butyl cellosolve would be the solution explaining to me that the paint im using has many fast evaporators in it and the cellosolve will prevent the dry skimming and solvent bubbles being trapped underneath. however i can't find anywhere if cellosolve can be used with oil based paint. suggestions?
Interlux Brushing Liquid 333…it’s a 50/50 blend of kero & medium evaporating naphtha and should retard & inhibit solvent vapor entrapment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yes it is really great and will not dull sheen like penetrol. Alternatively I would use fine Paints of Europe mineral spirits
Alternatively? thats what im using is all FPOE and im getting solvent pop with very little of there thinner ive tried larger amounts nothing is working thats why i thought a retarder would suffice
 

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Alternatively? thats what im using is all FPOE and im getting solvent pop with very little of there thinner ive tried larger amounts nothing is working thats why i thought a retarder would suffice
you need to thin hollandlac about 30% with FPOE spirits or heat it up to ~150f. best to build up with multiple coats of tinted primer then 1-2 coats finish. final sand should be minimum 600 grit. vacuum and tack rag. If working on site make sure you have negative pressure and a big ass air scrubber.
 

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ah...is this paint being put onto plaster? or drywall mud? if so, it wasn't sealed properly. we call it capillary action. the paint gets "pulled" into small "holes" by capillary action, then air pressure forms underneath, and as the surface begins to dry, the paint shrinks(it's how it dries) and the bubble comes to the surface. CGC put out a letter a number of years ago about why it happens...it was actually 20 pages long, but that is the gist of it. so seal the surface, and if you have to...extend the dry time...maybe thinner coats.
 

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ah...is this paint being put onto plaster? or drywall mud? if so, it wasn't sealed properly. we call it capillary action. the paint gets "pulled" into small "holes" by capillary action, then air pressure forms underneath, and as the surface begins to dry, the paint shrinks(it's how it dries) and the bubble comes to the surface. CGC put out a letter a number of years ago about why it happens...it was actually 20 pages long, but that is the gist of it. so seal the surface, and if you have to...extend the dry time...maybe thinner coats.
It’s not just limited to suction on unsealed plaster or gypsum and can occur on sealed substrates e.g. when clear coating an automobile. It is caused by the film skinning over before the solvents have a chance to volatilize and escape…common causes are applying coatings too thick, too much airflow, or when air temps are too high.

Edit: skinning over isn’t entirely accurate…it should read as the surface viscosity increases
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ok so Im using oil based paint and ive gotten solvent pop. someone told me Butyl cellosolve would be the solution explaining to me that the paint im using has many fast evaporators in it and the cellosolve will prevent the dry skimming and solvent bubbles being trapped underneath. however i can't find anywhere if cellosolve can be used with oil based paint. suggestions?
Nobody has even addressed my question, not one thing about butyl cellosolve nor a retardent.
 

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Nobody has even addressed my question, not one thing about butyl cellosolve nor a retardent.
Butyl Cellosolve isn’t conducive in alkyd oils…a solvent blend such as the Interlux 333 I mentioned retards drying due to containing slow evaporating solvents

edit: a splash of white kero will also serve as a retarder and will allow the lighter solvents in the coating to flash off w/out developing solvent pop craters..not a 100% guaranteed but it should work
 

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Nobody has even addressed my question, not one thing about butyl cellosolve nor a retardent.
Butyl cellosolve is a water base additive done by the factory, I believe it is a coalescing agent.

What you are after would be vm&p naptha, not an easy product to find, but an SW commercial store will have it along with other products that may help you. These are extremely expensive so don't be shocked by $100-200/gallon retail pricing.

Also, just try brushing a thinner coat. Most alkyds will stretch a long way if brushed out thin. You might need more coats, but beats trying to thin with some witchcraft solvents. What pray-tell are you painting with an actual oil base these days??
 

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Hi everybody, my name is Don.
Professional painter for the last 20+ years, dealing with hundreds and hundreds of customers, some living in modest homes, others in 4 to 8 million dollar mansions.
Why Am I mentioning this, just to emphasize the interactions with people of various spectrum of wealth I had, yet, them being very capable of being very polite.

I'm watching this thread from the beginning, and what caught my attention is the attitude of the OP.
Not a single word of Thank You to all the members who offered him their advice, even if that advice was not what he was looking for.
But simple Thank you, would be a nice gesture on OP's part to acknowledge the time and effort they took trying to help him.

Yet in his latest post OP is aggravated that nobody is catering to his requests, providing very limited scope of details relating to the problems he is facing.

"Hey everybody, my car broke, how do I fix it"
 

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Nobody has even addressed my question, not one thing about butyl cellosolve nor a retardent.
For gawd sake, tell us what you are painting and maybe introduce yourself as to your experience in the painting trade while you're at it.
 
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