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fixes grumpy old house
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Discussion Starter #1
hello everybody!

I usually post on contractortalk but I have a pretty specific quandary that I think I may find some experienced help with here...

For the last 2 (yes two) years I have been working on restoring the exterior of a giant 1903 house in seattle that has never ever before seen the hands of a competent painter/remodeler. I've done a ton of carpentry and stripped 3 sides of the house, with one giant side to go this summer. Siding is x4 cedar bevel with 5-6 layers of modern paint and a brutally solid bottom layer from 1903 that has to be linseed oil. I literally blew out my back last summer stripping two sides of this beast (in chiropractor's x3 weekly now). It doesn't have to go 100% bare wood but most of it has to go, the side I have left to do is the southern (sunny) side of the house.

I have tried everything: scraping w/ really good stripper (top layers fly off, bottom coat softens a little, either re-apply or just plow through it), limited dry scraping (forget it), and infrared (silent paint remover) which was too slow and too brutal on the body.

My plan for the last side is to invest in a paint shaver pro and finish it that way. Seems to be so much faster from videos and reviews I've seen.

Problem is in days past some idiot face-nailed the lower part of EVERY course of siding onto EVERY stud, that's a rusty old school six penny nail every 24" on a 20' high 40' wall!

The paint shaver rep sez the 8amp can hit face nails but it dulls the blade prematurely. Anyone who owns one of these care to chime in?

I was thinking I could bite the bullet, go out with some cow magnets and flat bars and find all the face nails and counter-sink them (two days work tops), then just plow through the wall super fast.

Any chance the shaver pro could just handle the nails, or am I dreaming? Not interested in going through 10 blade sets on one wall, or reaming the wood all sloppy from skipping...

I'd like to stress that going through this paint with pro-prep scrapers is near impossible, so this is really the option I have left.

And yes, I plan on using the dustless attachment with the hepa vac, plastic, etc. not stoopid...

Man, this thing is the cedar death star.... job is T&M but I'm soooo done scraping this freak of nature, gotta finish this up before I blow a disk or something.

any help out there?

thanks
jordan
 

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I am not sure about the paintshaver although I hear it is a beast! Are you going to take care of the rust on those nails? Like hit them with some type of sanding wheel prior to sinkin em? that rust may be a beotch later on when trying to finish the job, as in coming through the finish coat. Are you painting? I don't remember reading what you are finishing it off with. Good luck man. Sounds like an awesome project. Do you have any pics? We love pics :yes:
 

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Are the nails flush, set, or protruding a bit . . . From my experience which is almost 10 years ago now, as long as the nails aren't sticking out ( i.e. the machine isn't going to get hung up on them) the paint shaver will go right over them. Even if you go through a few sets of blades per side, it will probably be worth it. I remember having the same issue: I think we had to set a few nails which were sticking out but were, for the most part, fine.

On a four inch reveal clapboard, you should be able to get the whole board, including the bottom edge down to bare wood in two to three passes per section. Tough dirty work but the paint shaver is an animal. You then, of course, have quite a bit of palm sanding to do before priming again.
 

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We use the Paint Shaver a lot. We have never had to set all of the nails. If they are sticking out, then yes, you will have to set them. We did a church last summer that required shavers. We used them, followed by grinders with high speed sanding attachments. Paint shaver sells them. We bought two and then just bought the same grinder and ordered the parts from them to make our own sanders at about half the cost. We then used, Chemcromic (sp?) from Sherwin-Williams to seal in the rust. Works great.
Have fun and post some pictures of that job.
 

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Jordanski, peel away.

Jordanski, have you looked into peel away?

Its basically sodium hydroxide paste, but it comes with 3x3 foot sheets that you apply over the paste. The paste and the paint peel off with the sheets.

This removes lead paint without making dust.

Obviously the material is caustic, but I think with a well planned procedure, it should be easy enough to keep off your skin.

Scaffolding would be key.

From pictures I have seen, 3 foot sheets of paint come off after 12 hours of soaking.

Even if you removed 95%of the paint in giant sheets, the other 5% would suck right into your hepa vac while sanding.

By the way, if you use the infra-red heater you need to get the support beam with swing arm that holds the infra red device in place so you can be scraping while it is heating the next section.
 

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fixes grumpy old house
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Discussion Starter #10
Will Update with pics and more info

Thanks for all the ideas guys, I'm busy working this weekend but will re-size some pics to post asap and I'll go over my experiences with each idea posted so hopefully others can learn from it. I think there should be a sticky just on all the ways to strip and scrape exteriors in different situations... I can't think of a worse task that has just buried everyone I know at least once on a project.

J
 

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The easy way is just add in the cost of a prof. sandblasting co. using pecan shells or corn cob blasting media it takes everthing off but the wood, you may need to check with local ordinances for possible lead abbatement issues, I have used this process several time in restoration projects in the historic section of savannah ga. you can also used baking soda for blasting media
 

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I've used the PaintShaver on cedar sidewall shingles - very happy with the results. Nails can be a problem but if you vary the adjustment of the cutterheads you can squeeze some more life out of them (there are 3 cutterheads with 3 sides each). Suggest you definitely use the PS sanding system - much easier to remove tool gouges and get a smooth finished face.

Have also used PeelAway - better in warmer weather rather than cold and if you don't get everything covered the first time you're faced with a re-do (X hours) or sanding (dust).

Don't have hard numbers, but my guess would be a time/material toss-up between the PS system and chemical.
 

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I have tried that peelaway and found it to be a messy ordeal, it even freaked out the customer when they saw the results.
I prefer Dad's Marine and Industrial stripper, it removes everything and leaves wood clean with no need to wash it off once the stripper dries.
It will even remove epoxy coatings.
 

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fixes grumpy old house
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Discussion Starter #15
Update with answers to all the posts...

to nEighter:

for rusty nails, I countersink unless already flush and every nail gets a shot of rattle can rusted metal primer, then do your putty/caulk and 24 hr oil primer.. it works and doesn't take long at all, put the rattle can in your bucket or back pocket (ps. and it makes the house loook CRAZY man! bare wood with crimson polka dots!)


to Gmack:

I will probably only sink nails beyond flush, we're talking hundreds of nails here!


re: the Wagner Paint Eater,

if you want to give yourself and everyone you know acute lead poisoning, it would be a fine product, also, against linseed oil any grinder pad will last about 10 square inches... and grinding paint without a dust free OSHA rated hepa vacuum attachment(not a shop vac with hepa filter, that doesn't cut it) is super illegal and toxic and if the state catches you you're done for... homeowners in seattle are pretty savvy and you can almost guarantee someone will make a call if you're visible...


re: Peel Away... sounds like a good product, I use EZway stripper, which is the best stripper in the world for everything except linseed oil, which you just have to plow through with a 2nd hard HARD pass of the scraper, which will kill you and your back in about 3 hours... the other 6 layers of modern paint are literally falling off the house by the time I get to it...EZway is the ****, but if you're not in western washington you can't get it, I drive an hour on the freeway for mine, for real....

to Overspray:

I'm skeptical about sand-blasting (or similar medium) cedar, which is pretty soft, sounds like it would work nice for brick... and yeah, that's super illegal for older paint here... I appreciate your two cents tho... ps. that sounds like a huge mess and a big load to hazmat, that must have been a crazy big project!

to Crestwood:

I was thinking of getting the makita sander that Paint shaver makes an attachment for, I don't like the idea of mail ordering proprietary sandpaper that costs twice as much... have you tried that?

to Wisepainter:

I googled "Dad's Marine & Industrial Stripper" and this is what I got:

by David Bleiler, TLA Video (Firm) - 2004 - Reference - 816 pages
After he befriends a clairvoyant transsexual stripper named Heaven, his life takes ... thus instigating an oath of vengeance from the slain lad's loony dad. ...
books.google.com/books?isbn=0312316909...

must be a regional thing! :lol::laughing::lol::laughing:



 

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Paint shaper pro, This last summer I be start, if you read the instruction, can you do nice job, check my website http://magictouchcontracting.com and click gallery, and you see the job we make, I did 2 old houses build 1900, 1850, how much I pay Vacuum 200 + vacuum hoses extension 200 + shaper pro 650, lead protector and ext $ 100.00 . Almos $1,300 for each guy equipment, 2 weeks we made the preparation 3 guys, and 2 weeks finish paint, (charge $30,000.00 expenses and labor $20,000) in the past we expens to do this big jobs $40,000.00) we leave the sidding, new...
 

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Paint shaper pro, This last summer I be start, if you read the instruction, can you do nice job, check my website http://magictouchcontracting.com and click gallery, and you see the job we make, I did 2 old houses build 1900, 1850, how much I pay Vacuum 200 + vacuum hoses extension 200 + shaper pro 650, lead protector and ext $ 100.00 . Almos $1,300 for each guy equipment, 2 weeks we made the preparation 3 guys, and 2 weeks finish paint, (charge $30,000.00 expenses and labor $20,000) in the past we expens to do this big jobs $40,000.00) we leave the sidding, new...
Is this highfibre reincarnated?
 

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to Wisepainter:

I googled "Dad's Marine & Industrial Stripper" and this is what I got:

by David Bleiler, TLA Video (Firm) - 2004 - Reference - 816 pages
After he befriends a clairvoyant transsexual stripper named Heaven, his life takes ... thus instigating an oath of vengeance from the slain lad's loony dad. ...
books.google.com/books?isbn=0312316909...

must be a regional thing! :lol::laughing::lol::laughing:




AWE MAN now you have gone and gave his secret away!!:rolleyes:







:whistling2:
 

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Paint shaper pro, This last summer I be start, if you read the instruction, can you do nice job, check my website http://magictouchcontracting.com and click gallery, and you see the job we make, I did 2 old houses build 1900, 1850, how much I pay Vacuum 200 + vacuum hoses extension 200 + shaper pro 650, lead protector and ext $ 100.00 . Almos $1,300 for each guy equipment, 2 weeks we made the preparation 3 guys, and 2 weeks finish paint, (charge $30,000.00 expenses and labor $20,000) in the past we expens to do this big jobs $40,000.00) we leave the sidding, new...
And people wonder why I am so fed up with other painters like this.
How in the world??????
 
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