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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Paint spitting with Graco FFLP tip

Today I was testing KM DuraPoxy with a nearly new 310 FFLP tip and it would spit when I squeezed the trigger at any pressure. I could get a nice pattern, but couldn't avoid the spitting. The same tip sprayed some BIN advanced primer no problem. I re-cleaned the filters and tip with no luck.

Is DuraPoxy just too thick for a 310 tip or is something else maybe going on?
 

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Are you using the new FFLP tips? If so, did you change out the rear seat and rubber seal? If not that will be the reason for spits. Or you might just have something caught in between the needle and diffuser. If you used BIN then you cleaned with alcohol and might have dislodged something from in side the gun. I will take the tip off then run material back into the bucket for a minute or so and that takes care of the problem. I tried the 310 with DE evershield flat for eaves and gutters, but couldn't get it to spray right, the regular 311 worked great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Are you using the new FFLP tips? If so, did you change out the rear seat and rubber seal? If not that will be the reason for spits. Or you might just have something caught in between the needle and diffuser. If you used BIN then you cleaned with alcohol and might have dislodged something from in side the gun. I will take the tip off then run material back into the bucket for a minute or so and that takes care of the problem. I tried the 310 with DE evershield flat for eaves and gutters, but couldn't get it to spray right, the regular 311 worked great.
Thanks for the ideas. Yea, it's an FFLP tip. I did change the seat and seal. I was actually spraying BIN advanced (synthetic shellac) and sprayed without the tip to make sure the gun was clear.

I did some searching and found other threads that mention FFLP tips spitting, though it seems hit and miss.
 

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Thanks for the ideas. Yea, it's an FFLP tip. I did change the seat and seal. I was actually spvraying BIN advanced (synthetic shellac) and sprayed without the tip to make sure the gun was clear.

I did some searching and found other threads that mention FFLP tips spitting, though it seems hit and miss.
Ya, my Graco spits as well. It's always done it as long as I can remember. I just kind of got used to it.. I wonder if it's a problem with the needle or gun itself.? I have the Graco contractor gun. Are there better ones available I wonder?
 

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Spray guns spit* when they get worn out. I would be surprised if that has anything to do with the specific tip being used unless we’re talking about spitting as a result of clogging. In that case smaller tips are going to clog more and cause “spitting” when the clog happens.

Like Mike said, check for contaminates in the needle assembly. If that doesn’t work, repack the gun. If you have a cheap gun that can’t be repacked, it’s time for a new one if you don’t want it to spit.

* by “spit” I’m assuming that you mean blobs of paint coming out when you depress or release the trigger. In my experience this is always caused by a worn needle assembly, contamination, or improper calibration of the assembly. I suspect the specific tip is a red herring in trying to solve this problem.


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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Spray guns spit* when they get worn out. I would be surprised if that has anything to do with the specific tip being used unless we’re talking about spitting as a result of clogging. In that case smaller tips are going to clog more and cause “spitting” when the clog happens.

Like Mike said, check for contaminates in the needle assembly. If that doesn’t work, repack the gun. If you have a cheap gun that can’t be repacked, it’s time for a new one if you don’t want it to spit.

* by “spit” I’m assuming that you mean blobs of paint coming out when you depress or release the trigger. In my experience this is always caused by a worn needle assembly, contamination, or improper calibration of the assembly. I suspect the specific tip is a red herring in trying to solve this problem.


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In my case I used a nearly new contractor's gun that shot some water based primer just fine before switching to a heavier latex (cleaning in between). I haven't disassembled it, but I don't know if there's a point since it's nearly new.
 

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Short of disassembly, it sometimes helps to adjust the needle all the way in then back it out a little at a time until it seats like you want it to.

Sometimes that’ll clear a minor blockage just by pushing it out.


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I got spitting today, just like the OP. Was spraying my favorite enamel, SW ProIndustrial Acrylic in black on doors. The doors had five glass inserts, shaker style, so I had to spray the inside edges first then the faces, every trigger squeeze was a small droplet or two that flew out. The tip looked clean and no buildup, not sure how that happens in such a small tip. Almost like not quite enough pressure to force the paint out quick enough to atomize. I turned up the pressure slightly but did not help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I sprayed another coat with the tip again today after adjusting my gun needle, cleaning everything again, and trying with a lot more pressure. No difference. IMO, this tip just doesn't spray heavier paints well.
 

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I sprayed another coat with the tip again today after adjusting my gun needle, cleaning everything again, and trying with a lot more pressure. No difference. IMO, this tip just doesn't spray heavier paints well.
Just curious - are you straining your paint prior to spraying?

I’ve been using the same 310fflp tip for almost a year and a half with a variety of paints without any issues at all so find it hard to think the problem is with the design of the tips. Although I guess it’s always possible to have a faulty one.
 

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I typically thin heavier products, such as Pro-Classic, about ten percent although I have sprayed it successfully without any thinning. Products such as Kelly Moore’s Dura-Poxi and SW’s Pro-Industrial All Purpose are designed to spray pretty nicely without any alteration at all.
 

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My gun is old, so I'm not surprized, however I ordered a not so fine mesh filter strainer. I some times suspect its too fine for the heavier coatings.... There's 2 filters in most sprayers. 1 in the gun and 1 on the machine. Im going
to try that first. .
 

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Ongoing Graco tip problem for a number of years. Most will have it, some won't. Graco is aware of the problem yet seemingly hasn't done much of anything to totally rectify the problem. I switched to the Titan tips, once my Graco V tips finally gave up. Never a problem for them. You'll probably have to get a new nozzle and guard.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Just curious - are you straining your paint prior to spraying?

I’ve been using the same 310fflp tip for almost a year and a half with a variety of paints without any issues at all so find it hard to think the problem is with the design of the tips. Although I guess it’s always possible to have a faulty one.
Yep - I did strain. I also tried a 312 FFLP tip with the same result.
 

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You would think that with the engineering, design, and manufacturing capabilities available today, that someone could come up with the ultimate “perfect” sprayer that combines all of the positive attributes of the various systems while eliminating all of the downsides they each seem to possess. But so far that unicorn hasn’t been birthed.
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I tell ya......you people and yer FF tip sizes!
...

Note-.017-.021 orifice size is almost twice the size of an FF310.

Just sayin'!
True - but Graco doesn't appear to sell a FF317. The old FF310 tips would spray just about anything without too much trouble. I can't even find one to buy anymore (though I'd like to) since the FFLPs came out.
 

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True - but Graco doesn't appear to sell a FF317. The old FF310 tips would spray just about anything without too much trouble. I can't even find one to buy anymore (though I'd like to) since the FFLPs came out.
The reason they don't sell a 317 fine finish tip is because fine finish tips are NOT for latex paints. Or acrylics. Or most alkyds. They are for FINE FINISHES as in lacquers, conversion varnish, stains, etc. The fact that painters across the country use them for latex/acrylic paints is because of SW and their not being able to hire/keep any salespeople that know squat about spraying. Of course there are some SW salepeople that know this, but the fact that they (among other companies) have for the last twenty years just continued to sell FF tips for the incorrect products just proves my point. Too much needed information is falling through the cracks just to sell the customer what they think they need. Every single time i hear someone say their airless is "spitting" it is because the orifice they are using is the wrong size. EVERY SINGLE TIME!

Lets look at the list of companies who say in their data sheets and product information that an orifice of at least .015 is required for spraying latex/acrylic architectural finishes, shall we?

SW
PPG
Ben Moore
Valspar
Behr
Kelly Moore
Pratt & Lambert
California
and on and on including;

Graco
Wagner
Spratech
Airlessco
Binks
Devilbiss

Should i continue?

Not one of them has ever nor will ever recommend using a "fine finish" tip with an orifice smaller than .015 to spray an architectural paint. Fine finishes yes. Durapoxy is NOT considered to be a fine finish.

Ok rant over. Time for coffee.
 

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The reason they don't sell a 317 fine finish tip is because fine finish tips are NOT for latex paints. Or acrylics. Or most alkyds. They are for FINE FINISHES as in lacquers, conversion varnish, stains, etc. The fact that painters across the country use them for latex/acrylic paints is because of SW and their not being able to hire/keep any salespeople that know squat about spraying. Of course there are some SW salepeople that know this, but the fact that they (among other companies) have for the last twenty years just continued to sell FF tips for the incorrect products just proves my point. Too much needed information is falling through the cracks just to sell the customer what they think they need. Every single time i hear someone say their airless is "spitting" it is because the orifice they are using is the wrong size. EVERY SINGLE TIME!



Lets look at the list of companies who say in their data sheets and product information that an orifice of at least .015 is required for spraying latex/acrylic architectural finishes, shall we?



SW

PPG

Ben Moore

Valspar

Behr

Kelly Moore

Pratt & Lambert

California

and on and on including;



Graco

Wagner

Spratech

Airlessco

Binks

Devilbiss



Should i continue?



Not one of them has ever nor will ever recommend using a "fine finish" tip with an orifice smaller than .015 to spray an architectural paint. Fine finishes yes. Durapoxy is NOT considered to be a fine finish.



Ok rant over. Time for coffee.


I think spraying trim with a large tip and an airless would be a disaster. I can’t imagine how much material a 215, 315 or 217, 317 would put out on cabinets and trying to keep it from running.



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(people are seething right now, i can feel it) LOL!
 
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