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This is my first post so thank you for having such a great forum to be able to ask questions.

I am homeowner and not a paint professional although I have been a DIY guy for many years.

We replaced our kitchen cabinets with brand-new paint grade cabinets. They were custom-made and really great. We asked the cabinetmaker for referral for a painter. We interviewed a few different painters and ended up selecting the cabinet makers referral who has been painting for over 50 years and is incredibly knowledgeable and came with great references.

We had some trouble finding a paint that would except the dark Benjamin Moore Kendall charcoal HC-166 in low sheen. It seems that you have to go to semi gloss to be able to find a base that was capable of tinting that dark. Eventually Sherwin Williams told us that we could use the SW Promar 200 interior alkyd eggshell and it would do a great job. He primed with a white high build lacquer, sanded and then sprayed a few coats of Promar 200. On each coat it seems to flash quite a bit.

We We had the Sherwin Williams representative come over to our house and look at the paint on the cabinet doors. They had not been put back up yet. He suggested another coat. In the end we ended up with four coats of color, none of which fully dried/cured. Sherwin Williams took one drawer front to the lab and said that it had 10 mil of thickness. This seems a little bit crazy assuming that a five mill wet coat reduces down to a one mill dry coat according to Sherwin-Williams.

In the end we are now left with about 40 doors and drawer fronts that most likely will never fully cure and we will have to pay to replace. I sampled one of the painted fronts by sanding all the way back down to the bare wood in the center and testing the first coat with 400 grit sandpaper to see if it balled up. It's still balled up telling me that the first coat was not dry even though it was painted over a month ago.

Interestingly when I was receiving quotes for the job a few months back one of the quotes came back with the footnote that said they would not use Sherwin-Williams oil paint for a color that dark as he had had some trouble in the past with getting it to dry and cure properly. He proposed a modified oil instead. Now that I've gone through two months of pain and agony (job still is not done) that painter's footnote resonates.

Sherwin Williams has pointed the finger back at the painter saying that his application was too thick and that he is the cause of it not being able able to cure. Since he has a long standing relationship going back many years with Sherwin-Williams they have attempted to help him out with covering the cost of some of the supplies. I think he is out thousands of dollars trying to make this right for me.

My question to the group is have you experienced something similar when using Sherwin-Williams Promar 200 and a dark color?

I feel really badly for the painter as is he is losing his butt on this job. I truly believe he is incredibly knowledgable and a very good painter and that this is most likely a product issue. Then again I do not have enough knowledge in this area is just a lowly homeowner to make that assessment.

Any thoughts would be welcome.

Thank you
 

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We had some trouble finding a paint that would except the dark Benjamin Moore Kendall charcoal HC-166 in low sheen.
Not sure who told you that but its incorrect. You can tint that color in a variety of paints appropriate for cabinets including Advance, Satin Impervo, Aura and basically every other paint BM manufactures. Also not sure how your painter put it on to 10mil DFT... but that is probably the main cause of it not curing in addition to dark colors taking longer in the first place due to the amount of colorant added and possibly other unaccounted for factors...
 

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So many factors.

Alkyd based resins typically require longer drying times in between coats compared to waterborne acrylics. So, how long were the subsequent coats of paint applied between each coat? and as mentioned, how thick was the coating/

If the painter does not have recorded data in terms of WFT (Wet Film Thickness), ambient temperatures and humidity, and recorded times in between coats, along with a third party professional inspection, he doesn't have a leg to stand on.

It's likely your painter applied the coating like most dousing the guide line provided in the TDS (Technical Data Shett).. Subjectively rather than
 

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Can't those doors be taken to those companies that strip doors and furniture, etc? Don't they dump them in vats of chemicals that dissolve the coatings?

That oil finish hasn't set yet so it should dissolve easily.
 

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Thanks for posting on PaintTalk.com. The Moderators of this forum would prefer that you post Do It Yourself related topics on our sister site www.DIYChatroom.com .

PaintTalk.com is designed for professional painting contractors and the related fields to discuss issues and topics pertaining to the painting industries. Many of our professional contractors are also members at DIYChatroom.com and are looking forward to assisting you with your needs.

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Thanks for posting on PaintTalk.com. The Moderators of this forum would prefer that you post Do It Yourself related topics on our sister site www.DIYChatroom.com .

PaintTalk.com is designed for professional painting contractors and the related fields to discuss issues and topics pertaining to the painting industries. Many of our professional contractors are also members at DIYChatroom.com and are looking forward to assisting you with your needs.

Please take a moment to post your question at www.DIYChatroom.com If you're not already a member of DIYChatroom.com you can sign up for a free account by going to http://www.diychatroom.com/register.php .

We apologize for any inconvenience that this may have caused. This thread has been closed.
 
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