[becolouring]

Hey everyone...

Like some feedback on this project I'm pricing. They occupant wants their floor painted giving the floor a glossy shinny look. They're fashion designers. The room is approximately 11" x 18". And I would say high traffic.

Anyway, I was thinking of tackling this the way I would tackle cabinets. Clean, sand, prime (BIN), sand again, prime (STIX), sand again, first coat, sand again, second coat.

Anybody have any thoughts on this approach? I was considering using Hollandlac Interior/Exterior Traditional Oil Paint. Any other options I should consider?

Also, I wasn't planning on filling in the gaps between the planks. However, I am planning on fixing cracked planks and filing in nail holes with Bondo. Thoughts here as well.

Here are some photos...

TIA,
Steve Blinn
Be Colouring

 

[Masterwork]

There's no point in using stix on top of bin. It won't bond any better to the bin than your top coat. I wouldn't use bin on the floor, though, since it's really not going to take the traffic well at all.

Also, skip the oil paint. You're creating a maintenance headache. Use an acrylic porch and floor enamel over an oil primer, or stix if potential bleed through isn't an issue.

 

[Redux]

Hey everyone...

Like some feedback on this project I'm pricing. They occupant wants their floor painted giving the floor a glossy shinny look. They're fashion designers. The room is approximately 11" x 18". And I would say high traffic.

Anyway, I was thinking of tackling this the way I would tackle cabinets. Clean, sand, prime (BIN), sand again, prime (STIX), sand again, first coat, sand again, second coat.

Anybody have any thoughts on this approach? I was considering using Hollandlac Interior/Exterior Traditional Oil Paint. Any other options I should consider?

Also, I wasn't planning on filling in the gaps between the planks. However, I am planning on fixing cracked planks and filing in nail holes with Bondo. Thoughts here as well.

Here are some photos...

TIA,
Steve Blinn
Be Colouring

View attachment 111189

I’m wondering if it wouldn’t be better to just sand it down to bare wood followed by 2-3 coats of Moore’s P22, no primer, w/a splash of thinner in the 1st coat. BIN will fail miserably especially if damp mopped and “will” lift at every joint in due time.

 

[Joe67]

Neither BIN nor stix should go on a floor. (And ditto to the redundancy as noted by Masterwork).

What kind of look are they after? FWIW I agree with Redux, though if you sand it down to bare wood, then just think about leaving it natural wood and not paint it?

 

[cocomonkeynuts]

Sand to 120, prime with 024 or dalys shipnshore then two coats P22 urethane alkyd enamel. Maybe add some corotech catalyst to speed up the cure.

 

[Joe67]

Sand to 120, prime with 024 or dalys shipnshore then two coats P22 urethane alkyd enamel. Maybe add some corotech catalyst to speed up the cure.

The 024 is suitable for floors? The TDS doesn't mention it, but good to know.

 

[Masterwork]

I mean.... P22 says for metal substrates only... I don't think anyone here cares about data sheets anymore...

 

[Redux]

I mean.... P22 says for metal substrates only... I don't think anyone here cares about data sheets anymore...

You’re correct...it’s not VOC compliant for wood substrates..it’s essentially the same as the discontinued C112 Porch & Floor Enamel..

 

[Redux]

The 024 is suitable for floors? The TDS doesn't mention it, but good to know.

I used the 024 as a primer over an old varnished floor which was top coated w/a urethane/alkyd paint and it held up great. It’s really best to let the 024 dry a few days before top coating or until it doesn’t scratch with a fingernail.

Just a note to the OP, when painting a floor in the dry of winter With oil paint, you run the risk of paint squeezing out of the joints in bb size balls which can and does happen weeks to months after finishing as the flooring swells.

 

[becolouring]

Thank you for this advice

There's no point in using stix on top of bin. It won't bond any better to the bin than your top coat. I wouldn't use bin on the floor, though, since it's really not going to take the traffic well at all.

Also, skip the oil paint. You're creating a maintenance headache. Use an acrylic porch and floor enamel over an oil primer, or stix if potential bleed through isn't an issue.

 

[becolouring]

They're going for a shinny look. Probably looking at a Satin, Semi-gloss might be too glossy.

Neither BIN nor stix should go on a floor. (And ditto to the redundancy as noted by Masterwork).

What kind of look are they after? FWIW I agree with Redux, though if you sand it down to bare wood, then just think about leaving it natural wood and not paint it?

 

[becolouring]

During this process how long would you stay off of the floor?

Sand to 120, prime with 024 or dalys shipnshore then two coats P22 urethane alkyd enamel. Maybe add some corotech catalyst to speed up the cure.

 

[kentdalimp]

Already sent you this as a PM, but posting it here to benefit others.


PPG Breakthrough (PDS LINK). High Adhesion and is suitable for Fork Lift Traffic. We have used it on Dance Floors and the like.

Do you need a Non-Slip surface?

 

[cocomonkeynuts]

During this process how long would you stay off of the floor?

They're going for a shinny look. Probably looking at a Satin, Semi-gloss might be too glossy.

You can use coronado rust scat urethane enamel. available in satin and semigloss... similar to p22. I would feel comfortable with light foot traffic 48 hours with catalyst. This stuff is far more durable than breakthrough on a floor

 

[becolouring]

P22 is metal only, yes? I looked for the BM ALKYD PORCH & FLOOR ENAMEL WHITE C11201. Only found a Data Sheet. I'll check out Coronado.

You can use coronado rust scat urethane enamel. available in satin and semigloss... similar to p22. I would feel comfortable with light foot traffic 48 hours with catalyst. This stuff is far more durable than breakthrough on a floor

 

[cocomonkeynuts]

P22 is metal only, yes? I looked for the BM ALKYD PORCH & FLOOR ENAMEL WHITE C11201. Only found a Data Sheet. I'll check out Coronado.

C112 is no longer manufactured and p22 was changed to metal only due to voc laws in many states. p22 is for 'metal only' only in the usa. If you called BM and told them you were applying product in mexico they would say its ok.

 

[becolouring]

Unless convinced otherwise, I'm leaning toward Benjamin Moore Multi-Purpose Oil Based Primer Primer (024) as the primer and using Urethane Alkyd Gloss (P22) as the base with Corotech Alkyd Gloss and Hardness Catalyst (V705) mixed in.

I'm also thinking tinting Decorators White since they're looking for a wow factor.

C112 is no longer manufactured and p22 was changed to metal only due to voc laws in many states. p22 is for 'metal only' only in the usa. If you called BM and told them you were applying product in mexico they would say its ok.

 

[NACE]

Already sent you this as a PM, but posting it here to benefit others.


PPG Breakthrough (PDS LINK). High Adhesion and is suitable for Fork Lift Traffic. We have used it on Dance Floors and the like.

Do you need a Non-Slip surface?

Or Ben Moore Command.

 

[becolouring]

Thanks for the suggestion. There's another thread about Command I've been following. I get the impression from that thread that Command is delayed as a result of the RO.

Or Ben Moore Command.

 

[NACE]

Thanks for the suggestion. There's another thread about Command I've been following. I get the impression from that thread that Command is delayed as a result of the RO.

it is delayed but depending on your location Command has been distributed. You may be able to get a participating dealer to send you a gallon or two.