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Going to use this opportunity to clarify a "Best Practice"

There are lots of coatings that will work and work well for this application. However if the intended use (Foot Traffic/Floors) and the intended substrate (Wood) are not listed on the PDS, then I would ask for a letter from the Manufacturer (Your Sales Rep can usually get one from the company Technical Representative) stating that they recommend the system and will warrant it. Otherwise, if it fails, even for a non-related issue, then you are going to fight to get a warranty.

We used PPG Pure Performance on Exterior Walls at the LAX parking structure. It was recommended by PPG as the best product to use. While preparing the submittal I noticed that the PDS says: "Interior" So I had to get a letter from PPG stating that it was in fact fine for Exterior use in this application and they would provide the required warranty. Had they not been willing to do it, then we would have submitted a different product. BUT we took care of it before we started, not fought about it after the fact. No problems 5 years later.

So make sure, whatever you decide, its either stated on the PDS or get a letter from the manufacturer. It's not worth the liability otherwise.
 

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Going to use this opportunity to clarify a "Best Practice"

There are lots of coatings that will work and work well for this application. However if the intended use (Foot Traffic/Floors) and the intended substrate (Wood) are not listed on the PDS, then I would ask for a letter from the Manufacturer (Your Sales Rep can usually get one from the company Technical Representative) stating that they recommend the system and will warrant it. Otherwise, if it fails, even for a non-related issue, then you are going to fight to get a warranty.

We used PPG Pure Performance on Exterior Walls at the LAX parking structure. It was recommended by PPG as the best product to use. While preparing the submittal I noticed that the PDS says: "Interior" So I had to get a letter from PPG stating that it was in fact fine for Exterior use in this application and they would provide the required warranty. Had they not been willing to do it, then we would have submitted a different product. BUT we took care of it before we started, not fought about it after the fact. No problems 5 years later.

So make sure, whatever you decide, its either stated on the PDS or get a letter from the manufacturer. It's not worth the liability otherwise.
LOL Good luck getting a manufacturer to warranty a floor. we're talking about a urethane oil enamel, these products have been used on floors for decades
 

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Hey everyone...

Like some feedback on this project I'm pricing. They occupant wants their floor painted giving the floor a glossy shinny look. They're fashion designers. The room is approximately 11" x 18". And I would say high traffic.

Anyway, I was thinking of tackling this the way I would tackle cabinets. Clean, sand, prime (BIN), sand again, prime (STIX), sand again, first coat, sand again, second coat.

Anybody have any thoughts on this approach? I was considering using Hollandlac Interior/Exterior Traditional Oil Paint. Any other options I should consider?

Also, I wasn't planning on filling in the gaps between the planks. However, I am planning on fixing cracked planks and filing in nail holes with Bondo. Thoughts here as well.

Here are some photos...

TIA,
Steve Blinn
Be Colouring

View attachment 111189
They want their high traffic floor painted a high gloss. And they are designers. What a surprise.
 

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LOL Good luck getting a manufacturer to warranty a floor. we're talking about a urethane oil enamel, these products have been used on floors for decades
NEVER had a problem getting a standard 1 year warranty on a floor we use paint that is specified for floors (PPG Breakthrough/SW Porch and Floor Enamel/Vista Acripoxy II, etc.) Or getting a similar or longer warranty when working with a manufacturer to design a system for the intended environment.

We have established relationships with our manufacturers and there are contractual requirements they need to meet if they want to sell $40K worth of paint on a single job.

Now, there are a lot of paint salesmen that will recommend any system that they want for any environment but are unwilling to back it up in writing. If a salesman recommends something but won't put it in writing, then what's it worth? It may be the best system in the world, but if we have to warrant it and the manufacturer won't, then someone else can do it!
 

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NEVER had a problem getting a standard 1 year warranty on a floor we use paint that is specified for floors (PPG Breakthrough/SW Porch and Floor Enamel/Vista Acripoxy II, etc.) Or getting a similar or longer warranty when working with a manufacturer to design a system for the intended environment.

We have established relationships with our manufacturers and there are contractual requirements they need to meet if they want to sell $40K worth of paint on a single job.

Now, there are a lot of paint salesmen that will recommend any system that they want for any environment but are unwilling to back it up in writing. If a salesman recommends something but won't put it in writing, then what's it worth? It may be the best system in the world, but if we have to warrant it and the manufacturer won't, then someone else can do it!
Flooring systems are a mixed bag; way too many variables to account for outside of product failure and what it comes down to 99% of the time is surface prep. Why would I have to warranty your workmanship? I can guarantee SW and PPG offering a 'warranty' on any flooring system comes with about ten thousand reasons they won't be responsible for failure.

Again we're talking about a small old wood floor. Oil primer and a urethane alkyd enamel are going to hold up just fine just as they have for decades before. FYI the old C112 floor enamel was a straight relabel from the M22 urethane alkyd. P22 was updated formula due to VOC restrictions in many states.

SW still lists their PI urethane alkyd for use on wood floors if that makes you feel more warm and comfortable using it.
 

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Flooring systems are a mixed bag; way too many variables to account for outside of product failure and what it comes down to 99% of the time is surface prep. Why would I have to warranty your workmanship? I can guarantee SW and PPG offering a 'warranty' on any flooring system comes with about ten thousand reasons they won't be responsible for failure.

Again we're talking about a small old wood floor. Oil primer and a urethane alkyd enamel are going to hold up just fine just as they have for decades before. FYI the old C112 floor enamel was a straight relabel from the M22 urethane alkyd. P22 was updated formula due to VOC restrictions in many states.
I couldn’t think of one hardwood flooring company which would even warranty a recoat over an existing finish, let alone seek to recover damages from a finish manufacturer unless there was a substantial material defect...existing finishes on a high wear wood flooring surface should be removed, whether for paint or clears. We’ve had adhesion failures on wood flooring recoats over Murphy’s, Pledge, and Endust.. no matter how diligent we were with the prep and cleaning.
 

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I couldn’t think of one hardwood flooring company which would even warranty a recoat over an existing finish, let alone seek to recover damages from a finish manufacturer unless there was a substantial material defect...existing finishes on a high wear wood flooring surface should be removed, whether for paint or clears. We’ve had adhesion failures on wood flooring recoats over Murphy’s, Pledge, and Endust.. no matter how diligent we were with the prep and cleaning.
I'm suddenly recalling your experience with deodorant caused failure.
 

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This is one of those project types that one would take on only out of a sense of challenge - or desperation.

If I had any other type of work going, I would pass on something like this because of the inherent risk of failure. Add in to that, the customers are designers which in my experience translates into PITAs. Not knocking KDL for considering it, only that there is no way in hell I would take it on unless there were extremely mitigating factors - like imminent starvation, loss of a dwelling/vehicle, or all three.
 

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Porch and floor paints hold up well to traffic without the need for sealers, but if you paint your floor with an ordinary enamel paint instead, or expect a lot of traffic on it, make the final coats clear polyurethane sealer for the most long-lasting, durable results.
 
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