Hello everybody, hope sombody can help answer my questions about EFIS. Do I need to do any special prep work to paint it? What kind of paint should I use and how should I apply it? It seems to be in good shape. I was just planning on washing then spraying two coats of SW superpaint satin. The finish is a smooth sand finish, but seems to have alot of pin holes.
painting E.F.I.S. (dri-vit)
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Paul from SPECTRUM
We had used solid color acrylic latex stain on Dryvit with great results. We always boosted the product with additonal Mildew preventative and some EB to help it penetrate and flow. We liked California Products "Storm Stain".
On another note, check your insurance policy. You may find that your policy excludes all coverage related to work done on Dryvit, ours does here in New Jersey. Since then, we have abandoned all work on Dryvit, whether it be simply powerwashing or re-painting. We cannot get coverage for a potential mildew or mold claim.
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We had used solid color acrylic latex stain on Dryvit with great results. We always boosted the product with additonal Mildew preventative and some EB to help it penetrate and flow. We liked California Products "Storm Stain".
On another note, check your insurance policy. You may find that your policy excludes all coverage related to work done on Dryvit, ours does here in New Jersey. Since then, we have abandoned all work on Dryvit, whether it be simply powerwashing or re-painting. We cannot get coverage for a potential mildew or mold claim.
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Talk to the SW rep but I seem to remember that they recommend one on the masonry products for EFIS. Although i haven't found much that duration won't stick to.
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hows it going Tony?
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Micky - Just back from Kelly's for a burger and a beer. Been a pressure washer this week and I will be a painter again next week. A few more weeks one the books and I spend my time working or looking for work. Doing well all in all. Did you pick up that Harborview job?
tonyk - on a side note - the Superpaint is way too thin for the EIFS. You are essentially waterproofing and filling those pin holes and hairline cracks are essential. The Superpaint has a dry mil of about 1.4mil, the Duration has about a 2.8 dry mil, and the elastomeric between 8-12mil dry. Spray and back roll to make sure you fill as much as possible.
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she hasn't called back, I'll try her for a final time on monday. I didn't want to bother her too mch so I only tried 2x. do you know what her time frame is? I'm out about 8 weeks with the crews, so I don't want to waste her time.
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I told her I was 6-8weeks when I first talked to her and her request listed her as more than 6 weeks for the work.
Thanks for the advice on the ins. policy I will check. The SW rep is recomending the new resilance product. Has any one used this product before. He said it would be excellent! A good salesman always has a solution.
New products somtimes your friend, somtimes your ememy.
New products somtimes your friend, somtimes your ememy.
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Thanks for the advice on the ins. policy I will check. The SW rep is recomending the new resilance product. Has any one used this product before. He said it would be excellent! A good salesman always has a solution.
Well, if the Resilence is between the Superpaint and Duration then I would assume it is thinner then the Duration. You are going to spend a lot of time back rolling to fill holes. I thought the main reason for using the Resilence was for its toleration of moisture. Sounds like the SW rep is just trying to push a new product.
The last Dryvit I painted I used Duration because it was installed over a brick wall for the substrate and was aestheic rather than used as insulation or waterproofing. There was no need for me to be concerned about sealing every pinhole as long as the appearance was good. I was also painting the rest of the house with Duration and did not want to use two differnt types of material.
Your best option would be one coat of an elastoeric. Also, I could be wrong but I would think the insurance restrictions would be more for the application of EIFS rather than simply repainting. If there is a need to waterproof it then use the elastomeric. Check out the Dryvit site for their products - they have their Dryvit finish but also markets an elastomeric. When in doubt go with what the manufacturer is going to recommend.
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I spec'd the resilience for SW and was very impressed. It sets up super quick like duration but covers more like superpaint. Resilience is great for spring time painting, i won't use it when it get super hot though because you would have to fly to avoid drag marks.
but with the holes in efis you probably want to go with duration. like Tony G said its basically 2x as thick so cracks and holes are less likely to show.
but with the holes in efis you probably want to go with duration. like Tony G said its basically 2x as thick so cracks and holes are less likely to show.
Thanks for the advice guys! Is it necessary to fill all of the holes? The reason I ask is because they are not filled now and I believe it is part of the look. Tonyg your comment about the resiliance for moisture areas makes me wonder if that is the exact reason for the spec. of the product from SW.
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resilience isn't a waterproofer, its designed to paint when it may rain or late when the dew sets in. it sets up quick so you won't lose a lot of work. SW has been pushing it for a few weeks, it wouldn't surprise me if he told you to paint your car with it.
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Painting EIFS can present some problems. Best case might be to get a hold of EIFS distributor for STO. They sell a silicone based coating expressly for this purpose. Acrylic based paints soften in the sun and entrap dirt which mold sticks to, not so for silicone based based called StoSilco Shield.Some acrylic primers and topcoats might have trouble with adhesion to surfaces previously coated with a silicone based finish. If it was an acrylic frinish, Peel Bond and and good latex topcoat will work well also.
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