I will be painting high walls in a new house that are 18ft. tall in some rooms. Would you start painting from top to bottom or go across the top as doing a 9ft. wall. Then start over again on the bottom half. I will not be using scaffling just long ladder to reach ceiling. Trying to get paint without showing to many start and stop marks. :confused1:
Painting High Walls with Satin Paints
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We are dealing with 18 foot walls on extension ladders here chip.
For high walls I use the ladder to cut in, then roll with the extension pole.
Try rolling the top half for about 4 or 5 feet with the pole extended then drop the pole down and do the bottom half, the paint is still wet so it blends nicely with no overlap marks. There may be a better way but this works for me. A lot of work but thats why we charge extra for high walls.
Try rolling the top half for about 4 or 5 feet with the pole extended then drop the pole down and do the bottom half, the paint is still wet so it blends nicely with no overlap marks. There may be a better way but this works for me. A lot of work but thats why we charge extra for high walls.
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Ditto. I also use 100% lambswool covers for these as they leave hardly any stipple. Also, always finish with a downstroke.
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Lighten up ********.
It's the dang lap marks that will get you. Sometimes it's hard with satin on 8' walls.
I'd use the extension ladder to cut in. Then I'd use a step ladder with an extension pole. 2 gal. tray on the floor and I'm dipping without coming off the ladder until it's time to move it. Final strokes will be light, one direction with the roller facing the same direction for the whole wall. I too, would roll out 4 or 5 feet near the top before bringing the roller down the wall. Reason being, that's where all the warm air is. When you paint a high wall from a lower vantage point, more paint tends to get laid out up there, and that's fine with me because it tends to try faster, unless, as stated, it's a humid enviornment. Humidity can be used to slow drying times as well as lower temp.
I'd close heater vents, and even open a window to drop the temp, unless it's a humid envoirnmet. Don't forget the floetrol. And don't forget to have some music.
All this may or may not be necessary. But it's more of a guarantee that the first time will be successful.
I'd use the extension ladder to cut in. Then I'd use a step ladder with an extension pole. 2 gal. tray on the floor and I'm dipping without coming off the ladder until it's time to move it. Final strokes will be light, one direction with the roller facing the same direction for the whole wall. I too, would roll out 4 or 5 feet near the top before bringing the roller down the wall. Reason being, that's where all the warm air is. When you paint a high wall from a lower vantage point, more paint tends to get laid out up there, and that's fine with me because it tends to try faster, unless, as stated, it's a humid enviornment. Humidity can be used to slow drying times as well as lower temp.
I'd close heater vents, and even open a window to drop the temp, unless it's a humid envoirnmet. Don't forget the floetrol. And don't forget to have some music.
All this may or may not be necessary. But it's more of a guarantee that the first time will be successful.
Painting High Walls with Satin Paint
First coat of paint putting on the walls shouldn't matter,it's the second coat. I will be using 2 gal. bucket that has a flat side in it for roller,hanging off the extension ladder side. Top of ladder covered to prevent damage to walls. Rubber mat under ladder to protect wood floors and from slidding out while painting. Cutting in ceiling first, rolling walls 5-6ft. extension pole for remaining wall. This way any light coming in shinning on walls shouldn't show to many lap lines from eye level. Your ideas will help alot.
First coat of paint putting on the walls shouldn't matter,it's the second coat. I will be using 2 gal. bucket that has a flat side in it for roller,hanging off the extension ladder side. Top of ladder covered to prevent damage to walls. Rubber mat under ladder to protect wood floors and from slidding out while painting. Cutting in ceiling first, rolling walls 5-6ft. extension pole for remaining wall. This way any light coming in shinning on walls shouldn't show to many lap lines from eye level. Your ideas will help alot.
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One more tip comes to mind. You will have most likely 2 areas being rolled, meaning a high section and a low section. Try to put the transition (overlap) from high to low right at the level of the first floor ceiling. So if it does show an overlap, it will be under the customer's eye when they are on the second floor, and over their eye when on the first floor. Does that make sense?
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Anyone thought of getting a 8'-16' extension pole? They work great, and an 18" roller to cover lots of area fast!
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The longest pole I use is a 6'-12'. Add to that I'm 6'2", and I can usually reach most 2 story walls. But sometimes I have to climb on a 6' stepladder to get better leverage though.
Aw shucks! I don't mind...Lighten up ********.
I'm certainly not the best painter here on Painttalk.com from looking at the awesome pics of workmanship I've seen. I really enjoy all the great posts and hope to learn new things from them. Perhaps one day I'll be up there close to all you guys with REAL talent. :thumbup:
Me? I'm a mechanic.
I get the right tools and try to use the best methods to get the job done in the most cost efficient manner to provide the end client with a quality product in the shortest possible time.
Difficult for me to think of circumstances where painting should not be done from the top, down.
Of course 18' high cut in has to be done off an extension ladder...
And a weinie roller might be good to feather that into the body of the wall.
The bulk of the wall should be done with a production roller on a suitable extension pole.
The less time anyone can spend on a ladder, the better off you are.
Saving grace of this situation is that unless there is a set of stairs or a mezzanine across from this high wall, some minor indisgression in coverage will probably never be noticed.
I NEVER paint across a wall that was rolled vertically with the first coat.
If there were lap marks the first time, you'll end up with plaid the second!
An oblique angle is superior, in my opinion.
:jester:
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It depends on the roller cover and paint used. I use 3/4" lambs wool cover, and lay it on pretty thick. The longer I can keep a wet edge, the better. I'd say about 2 > 9' passes sounds about right. Make sure to keep back rolling into previous passes. And bring some Flex-All for your neck and shoulders at the end of the day.
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