[PremierPropertySvcs]

Hey guys,

New to the boards here and am looking for some advice or suggestions on how to attack this wall.

I'm not much of a painter, mainly power wash and contract cleaning.

The paint has began to flake and bubble. I'll be prepping the surface using a powerwashing to remove the loose paint and then clean the surface with a TSP and Sodium Hydrochloride. Then......is where I'm stuck.

I need to talk to a painter. Do I prime it or just paint over it? Spray or Roll?

It is about 15 feet high.

How would you tackle this?

I appreciate any feedback. :thumbsup:

Andy

 

[Mp3]

Sherwin Williams has a product for that, I forget what it's called exactly but it seemed to work really well. We used it to paint a chimney.

 

[TJ Paint]

Hire a pro.

 

[chrisn]

:thumbsup::notworthy:

Hire a pro.

 

[Last Craftsman]

Hey guys,

New to the boards here and am looking for some advice or suggestions on how to attack this wall.

I'm not much of a painter, mainly power wash and contract cleaning.

Hi Andy. Appreciate your straight forward approach regarding your lack of experience in the painting trade.

A lot of people come on here trying to b*llsh*t us to squeeze info from us.

Your honesty means you are a stand up guy.

So respectfully, I'll let you know that the format of this forum is for experienced professional painters, or people involved directly in a major capacity with a paint contracting business. The definition is loose depending on which member is being asked, but generally means people who are committed full time to painting as their income be they greenhorns, or master painters, or contractors. Of course there are a couple exceptions.

You might not get a lot of feedback here, because it seems like you don't fit the criteria of the forums.

In any case, your honesty is appreciated.

 

[bikerboy]

The paint appears to be failing mainly at the joints. If possible, I'd find out what if anything was added to the mortar. Or if there is a leak that is being wicked up by the joints.

Find the problem, then figure the solution.

 

[TJ Paint]

Its hard to discern, but it looks like there is effervescence on some of the exposed brick. This means moisture. It doesn't look like the coating has bonded well to the substrate either. Its hard to determine the problem from this picture alone. It could be a combination of problems, partly application, partly structural. Its really impossible to say, even If I wanted to help.

 

[nEighter]

The paint appears to be failing mainly at the joints. If possible, I'd find out what if anything was added to the mortar. Or if there is a leak that is being wicked up by the joints.

Find the problem, then figure the solution.

like PH was way outta whack.. or surface salt buidup

 

[Mantis]

It probably just wasnt properly prepped the first time it was painted. I bet it sat unfinished for years and some handyman just slapped a couple coats of behr on it without cleaning it.

Give it a hell of a scraping and power washing to remove as much of the loose stuff as possible. Give it a good cleaning with a broom/stiff brush and your favorite cleaner. Then apply a couple coats of Sherwin Williams A100.

 

[y.painting]

Also, use smaller resolution images on the forums...I cant read sh*t because of the size of you picture.

 

[Mantis]

Also, use smaller resolution images on the forums...I cant read sh*t because of the size of you picture.

There is a scroll bar on the bottom of your screen. Click it and drag it to the right :whistling2:

 

[Benson Painting]

I always say your time is better spent doing what you do best. The paint you might have used MP3 could be Loxon XP masonry coating. id use 2 coats, they even make a textured version to hid imperfects.

 

[y.painting]

There is a scroll bar on the bottom of your screen. Click it and drag it to the right :whistling2:

There is a simple setting on a camera (or photo editing ware) to get lower res images :whistling2: to make is easier for everyone

 

[nEighter]

next

 

[nEighter]

page

 

[nEighter]

Are you still attempting this project?

 

[Wolfgang]

Use SW LOXON for the
primer.

 

[4ThGeneration]

Heres one way to approach things.

Scrape and use a sanding disk if needed to remove it all.

Low pressure clean using 12.5% SH and some Dawn

Allow to dry

If you have any gaps in the block, I would use knife grade elastomeric patching. When you apply it, you can apply with the knife, but then use a damp brush to smooth it out.




Prime:

Benjamin Moore High Build Acrylic Masonry Primer. Use a airless to get the mils you need because you may get like 75SF per gallon to cover that mess up. Backroll it. Make sure you cover everything up. Even if you have to back the PSI off a bit.

Finish:

Benjamin Moore Moorlastic(Elastomeric) 100% acrylic water proof coating. I would apply with a airless again with a backroll. I would apply a 2nd coat by spraying a quick cap coat.


Finally, do not charge a cheap trunk slammers price. When you use quality and apply with quality, you need to be able to charge for the quality. Outdoor Painting Services are something we love to offer for the simple reason that it can get you some major interior projects.

This is just a basic answer as there is always things that come up on every project that I can not see from a photo.

 

[PressurePros]

Hire a pro.

LOL.. don't make me smack you painters around. I do share the sentiment most times.. especially when a painter thinks with his 2 gpm machine he can wash a house or deck corrctly. No foul, just the competative side of the trades. I had a similar project and I tapped a couple of painters.. Jimmy above being one of them. We can all share info as long as we aren't down the street taking food from each other's plates. I don't mind helping guys via pm.

 

[Induspray]

Peeling exterior block

Why is it failing? Could be the block was never cleaned prior to painting last time, could be moisture coming from the interior of the building, could be alkylinity in the concrete. Hard to know without proper investigation.

The best way to deal with this if you want to guarantee the wall will not peel again anywhere and that it will look 100% perfect is to blast off all the coating on the whole wall. This may not be practical both from a cost and a procedural point depeding on what else is in the vicinity and how much you would have to contain the media from blasting.

From a best value standpoint I would high pressure wash the complete surface using rotating paint stripping heads at between 3500 and 4000 psi to try and remove as much of the paint as possible. Dont waste your time with small pressure of low output GPM pressure washers. Once it is pressure washed you will have edges curling and sticking out when dry so you will have to scrape these areas again.

Plan on block filling the newly exposed block or the finish coats will never look correct. You can then put on 2 coats of either 100% Acrylic Latex or Elastomeric (a beefed up acrylic latex). And that should give you a long life system.

Keep in mind if you pressure wash the wall instead of sandblasting the old coating off that not all the paint will come off so when the wall is finished you will still be able to see where the original paint was and where the new paint is. Also there is always the possibility that the paint which would not come off easily with pressure washing may delaminate in the future. The only way around that is to strip all the old paint off which is probalby more that the budget can take.