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1. Prep all the trim, doors, and base
2. walls and ceiling prep (patchwork as needed)
3. spray trim and doors
4. mask off all trim and doors
5. Paint ceilings
6. Mask ceilings
7. Spray walls and backroll
 

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Why spray the trim before the walls. Is it that much faster to cut and roll the walls? I've done a couple where the trim was just going to get touched up here and there, so I masked it all off. Literally took one whole 10 hour day to mask off the entire house. The next day I came in sprayed the whole place.

Matt
If you do the trim first there is no masking needed, other than handles and hinges, plus "No brush/roller marks".....then when you mask for the walls you have nice clean lines.:thumbup:
 

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chameleon

why are you painting the trim and ceilings, then masking them?
it just seems so backwards, not to mention risky to me with fresh paint on them...I hope I don't sound rude
 

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I mean it's the bottom to top thing I was referring to, but more the fresh paint issue...

I've personally never sprayed walls at the end, not knocking it, just really not sure it's most efficient and safest.
 

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That is exactly what we do. You get much better lines cutting walls into trim, and we save final coat on baseboard till absolute last. That works best for us.
Absolutely . . . I was so stubborn about this for the longest time. Insisted on cutting trim into walls last. Then I'd see jobs done by guys I "knew" weren't as good as me and their lines looked as good as mine. I couldn't live with that so I started cutting walls into trim. I'll never go back.

Mack
 

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Matt--

If you try to roll an unpainted popcorn ceiling, it's going to come down on your head, mess your roller up, and screw the whole job up.

Do yourself a favor and only spray paint a popcorn ceiling--especially if unpainted.
Not true. I paint unpainted popcorn ceilings ALL THE TIME with a roller. It's a 2 coat process. BIN for the first coat, it won't rewet the texture, it will kill any stains that are present and it's so thin that it doesn't have the "suction" that your heavier bodied paints do, so it doesn't pull the texture off. 2nd coat is flat latex same day.
 

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Sense all flooring is being replaced I would probably spray the woodwork. Masking anything not being painted of course. I would prime the woodwork. Then fill all holes, Sand, Caulk all cracks in woodwork. Then paint x2.

The shop vac plays a very Important role in all steps when I'm spray against floor.

once Paint has setup.

Tape and Caulk all wood work edges that are against any walls

(By taping and Caulking I apply tape with a small lip of the woodwork against wall exposed and then apply caulk to all cracks. I smooth it out with my finger. Only leaving a film of caulk. Enough to fill crack and seal tape edge. I use 1 1/2" tape for base and 1" for casing and cabinets. )
Taping and caulking helps to speed up the proses with out loosing quality and avoiding any bleeding. And you don't have to worry about getting paint on the woodwork.

Then I do any wall or ceiling repair that is needed.

Sand all walls and ceiling with pole sander.

I then cut and role ceilings x2 if in bad shape.

Cut in all wall edges. x2

Then Role walls. x2

Then when you pull the tape you are left with a nice crisp strait paint line.
 

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Mopaint
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Another idea is talk the landlord or owner into satin or eggshell and spray the whole thing. He gets a more durable product and labor would be less but and easy 2000 profitt. MOPAINT
 

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dang mopaint...you do E-estimates???
you're good
 

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Not true. I paint unpainted popcorn ceilings ALL THE TIME with a roller. It's a 2 coat process. BIN for the first coat, it won't rewet the texture, it will kill any stains that are present and it's so thin that it doesn't have the "suction" that your heavier bodied paints do, so it doesn't pull the texture off. 2nd coat is flat latex same day.

I use BIN, but have not tried it on popcorn. Next time, I'll give it a whirl. And Rabbit, what size knapp roller do use when Binsing a ceiling?

JTP
 

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JTP...not to respond for someone else, but the point is to use a non-water based product. The popcorn is made with water, therefore a water based product (ie-latex primer) "reactivates" the popcorn causing it to roll right off with the roller.

You can use any oil based primer. Yes, BIN will work, but you ain't catching me applying that stuff over my head! :no: No way

Try cover stain or alkyd problock or something. BIN will be a nightmare waiting to happen. No nap will keep that stuff from getting everywhere...
 

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JTP...not to respond for someone else, but the point is to use a non-water based product. The popcorn is made with water, therefore a water based product (ie-latex primer) "reactivates" the popcorn causing it to roll right off with the roller.

You can use any oil based primer. Yes, BIN will work, but you ain't catching me applying that stuff over my head! :no: No way

Try cover stain or alkyd problock or something. BIN will be a nightmare waiting to happen. No nap will keep that stuff from getting everywhere...
Rich,

Not to be argumentive, well maybe a little:jester: , but BIN is much thinner than your average primer so it doesn't pull the texture off like others. There's a little learning curve to it but once mastered you'll have less spatter than with other products. Besides, I flat out refuse to use the quick dry oil primers like Cover Stain or Kilz or anything like them. The odor is horendous and it hangs in there a long time. The BIN is strong to, don't get me wrong, but it disipates much faster, once it's dry all you smell is clean.

BTW, I tried using the Sherwin Williams pigmented shellac just for fun. It's way runnier than BIN, which would be alright for porous surfaces, but absolutely worthless if you need to use it on a sealed surface such as semigloss paint. I had it forming drips on a ceiling awhile back, even though I put it on as thinly as possible. Glad is was a small ceiling, I just went over it after a bit with a dry roller to knock them down.
 

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Stacy
Cool..I've used a ton of BIN myself and SW's shellac as well. I do agree on the SW not being as "thick" if you want to call it that! I have absolutely mastered BIN and using it, however my post was directed more specifically to those not having used it before or those who want make a quicker and neater job of things.

BIN is messy, smelly, and I've had more complaints using it, than with other primers..(none of which smell good) It's absolutely great stuff, no disagreement there, but overhead IMO is not something I would try to get used to. It's thinner than water!
 

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JTP says--got the idea-- I can experiment with BIN and other primer blockers on the next one. Oil base primers and shellac based one--that is. Thanks Rabbit and Rich.

JTP learns again!
 

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I totally remember my first mistake painting popcorn ceilings! I felt like such a moron as I tried desperately to think of a reason why I was rolling the ceiling off at every pass. The HO's we're standing right there as I was doing it too....I was a semi-pro at that point and still was learning some very basic concepts. I still am learning, but luckily this forum has helped me gain much that I didn't quite get. I love this place and I love different points of view, even if mine is different. Voicing differences only makes us stronger in here. If we all agreed on things all the time and all did things 1 way only, things would be so boring
 

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I totally remember my first mistake painting popcorn ceilings! I felt like such a moron as I tried desperately to think of a reason why I was rolling the ceiling off at every pass. The HO's we're standing right there as I was doing it too....I was a semi-pro at that point and still was learning some very basic concepts. I still am learning, but luckily this forum has helped me gain much that I didn't quite get. I love this place and I love different points of view, even if mine is different. Voicing differences only makes us stronger in here. If we all agreed on things all the time and all did things 1 way only, things would be so boring
Rich-- You can see that I am humble based on my own idea of self preservation. Heck, I advocate learning the easy way b/c the Guy or Gal Upstairs knows I've usually had to set lots of nails with my forehead instead of a hammer. These forums have already saved me numerous holes in my head!
 

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chameleon

why are you painting the trim and ceilings, then masking them?
it just seems so backwards, not to mention risky to me with fresh paint on them...I hope I don't sound rude
No you don't sound rude Rich:) , But since I paint the trim and doors first (door off the jambs) I cover the doors with plastic, mask off the trim with 6" or 9" paper then shoot the ceiling and Backroll. The next day, we mask off the ceilings with 12" paper, then shoot the walls. It sounds Bassackwards I know, but here in Vegas, procedures are a little different. Not to mention, it not as cold as where you are....the paints dry a little faster.
Here we run into alot of the "Knockdown" texture which makes it hard to get a nice straight line when cutting. Also I do nothing but :New Custom Homes, and these freaks expect nothing but perfection. Try it out, you just might like it !!!!
 
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