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I have these 2 pieces to do. Going a dark charcoal colour. Not in the budget to completely strip. Normally I would prime with BIN, but don't want a white undercoat on these.
Considering just shooting 2 coats DTM Oil through Hvlp..thoughts? And no I can't get Milesi or GF around here. BM, SW and Dulux. Plus a few specialty stores..
 

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I have these 2 pieces to do. Going a dark charcoal colour. Not in the budget to completely strip. Normally I would prime with BIN, but don't want a white undercoat on these.
Considering just shooting 2 coats DTM Oil through Hvlp..thoughts? And no I can't get Milesi or GF around here. BM, SW and Dulux. Plus a few specialty stores..
"B-I-N Shellac-Base Primer may be tinted with up to 2 ounces of universal colorant per gallon.Tinting the primer toward the color of the topcoat helps hide in one coat." (Rustoleum)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
"B-I-N Shellac-Base Primer may be tinted with up to 2 ounces of universal colorant per gallon.Tinting the primer toward the color of the topcoat helps hide in one coat." (Rustoleum)
Thanks Holland. However, I've had trouble with tinting Shellac in the past. Not sure if it was a bad batch or what. Also, You can also only really get it to a light grey at best.
 

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Is Impervo oil?
Yes. will be praying some this weekend with the apollo and 1.8 tip with corotech reducer kendall charcoal. I tinted the 217 primer just a light gray with 1.5floz black universal colorant. Normally we thin maybe 30% with xylene and shoot with 1.3 tip but I want to try a larger tip and see if we can get away with less reducer
 

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fresh start 024 deep base and impervo
Fresh Start 085 “supposedly” bonds better than 024 and is an MPI approved bonding primer whereas the 024 isn’t, although I’ve never had adhesion issues with the 024 over existing solvent borne clear finishes.

Edit: forgot to mention that the 085 is only available in white w/no deep tinting base.
 

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Not really knowledge input (i don't know what MPI stands for lol), but would a rust primer in a rattle can work after appropriate prep?
 

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Not really knowledge input (i don't know what MPI stands for lol), but would a rust primer in a rattle can work after appropriate prep?
MPI is the Master Painters Institute and is regarded by many architectural coatings specifiers as the gold standard for testing and approving architectural coatings submitted by manufacturers for different applications. Benjamin Moore includes MPI approval #s on their data sheets in the certifications & qualifications section.
 

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This station is where you are stuck using solvent base paints.Sorry to say this but there is no better and easy way to spraying a lacquer undercoater or vinyl sealer with your hvlp to this project.
those furniture's are probably lacquer and all you have to do is de grease and scuff lightly with maroon scotch brite.
spraying first coat as a guide coat and work on imperfections and ones your done patch and repair just spray a good coat of vinyl sealer.
 

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This station is where you are stuck using solvent base paints.Sorry to say this but there is no better and easy way to spraying a lacquer undercoater or vinyl sealer with your hvlp to this project.
those furniture's are probably lacquer and all you have to do is de grease and scuff lightly with maroon scotch brite.
spraying first coat as a guide coat and work on imperfections and ones your done patch and repair just spray a good coat of vinyl sealer.
Your probably right technogod, but I'm really just not into spraying lacquer. I ended up priming them with a deep base fresh start 023. I actually found a can of stock black Command at the shop and think I am going to shoot that. Thanks for the recommendations.
 

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Not really knowledge input (i don't know what MPI stands for lol), but would a rust primer in a rattle can work after appropriate prep?
I'm sure it would, but I have an hvlp setup so no way in hell I'm spraying all that with a rattle can.
 

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Scuff sand top coating at minimum (especially on the tops).

Could u use gardz? Its clear & a gripping primer…


Keep Art Alive
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Scuff sand top coating at minimum (especially on the tops).

Could u use gardz? Its clear & a gripping primer…


Keep Art Alive
Yes, thoroughly sanded everything with 180 grit paper. Primed with fresh start latex 023. Stuck pretty damn good, but with all the colorant and humidity I found it still not sanding properly 24 hrs later. Put a fan on it for a few more hours and hit it with a first coat of Command from the hvlp 1.4 tip. Sprayed pretty good unthinned. Will give more results after 2nd coat today.. Not sure what the actually bonding qualities are in the Gardz Primer. Never actually tested that. May try it out on some samples out of curiosity.
 

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Not really knowledge input (i don't know what MPI stands for lol), but would a rust primer in a rattle can work after appropriate prep?
In my experience Rustoleum 2 in 1 on wooden furniture actually works great and sands like a dream, though I'm only shooting other rattlecans on my own projects for now. I'm 99% certain any other latex paint would stick fine, considering latex sticks fine to other oil primers. I think in retrospect I've used rattlecan oil primer for car interior pieces topcoated with latex sample paint (Valspar) and it actually came out great, as doing a color matched sample paint even while not exact for car interior trim pieces is still more exact than using the stock few rattlecan colors and adhesion was great, too. Not as good as another rattlecan lacquer/oil based paint, but still not peeling off in any manner even in hot sun.

I think rattlecans for sure are your friends, though it does look to the customer very DIYer-esque, they can get great results and I wish I used them sooner. Same even for things like heaters, a lot of times there imo a rattlecan is probably the most appropriate and least time consuming paint option in a residential setting. Not always, but I think it's important to get comfortable with them.

Obviously for MPI/etc, in a commercial setting you need to follow standards, but residential furniture there's not really architectural specs.
 

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In my experience Rustoleum 2 in 1 on wooden furniture actually works great and sands like a dream, though I'm only shooting other rattlecans on my own projects for now. I'm 99% certain any other latex paint would stick fine, considering latex sticks fine to other oil primers. I think in retrospect I've used rattlecan oil primer for car interior pieces topcoated with latex sample paint (Valspar) and it actually came out great, as doing a color matched sample paint even while not exact for car interior trim pieces is still more exact than using the stock few rattlecan colors and adhesion was great, too. Not as good as another rattlecan lacquer/oil based paint, but still not peeling off in any manner even in hot sun.

I think rattlecans for sure are your friends, though it does look to the customer very DIYer-esque, they can get great results and I wish I used them sooner. Same even for things like heaters, a lot of times there imo a rattlecan is probably the most appropriate and least time consuming paint option in a residential setting. Not always, but I think it's important to get comfortable with them.

Obviously for MPI/etc, in a commercial setting you need to follow standards, but residential furniture there's not really architectural specs.
I like rattle cans for a large variety of premixed inexpensive metallic colors. Everything else your better off using HVLP.
 

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In my experience Rustoleum 2 in 1 on wooden furniture actually works great and sands like a dream, though I'm only shooting other rattlecans on my own projects for now. I'm 99% certain any other latex paint would stick fine, considering latex sticks fine to other oil primers. I think in retrospect I've used rattlecan oil primer for car interior pieces topcoated with latex sample paint (Valspar) and it actually came out great, as doing a color matched sample paint even while not exact for car interior trim pieces is still more exact than using the stock few rattlecan colors and adhesion was great, too. Not as good as another rattlecan lacquer/oil based paint, but still not peeling off in any manner even in hot sun.

I think rattlecans for sure are your friends, though it does look to the customer very DIYer-esque, they can get great results and I wish I used them sooner. Same even for things like heaters, a lot of times there imo a rattlecan is probably the most appropriate and least time consuming paint option in a residential setting. Not always, but I think it's important to get comfortable with them.

Obviously for MPI/etc, in a commercial setting you need to follow standards, but residential furniture there's not really architectural specs.
Coming from high decorative paint finishing background/career and mostly interior oriented basecoating (which i applied and isn't super MPI oriented..) i thought it would work. If it sands well, it will perform.

I believe the OP's method is solid and correct in regards to long term wear....personally I wouldn't want to see a white undercoat/prime coatwas part of the future life of the finish.
 
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