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Just a thought,,, this time, cut in one wall at a time, as soon as you get done rolling, cut in while its still wet,,,, this even works for the GOOD paints.

I know this sounds like a smartass, but DON"T let it set,, cut it in RIGHT NOW
just another though, the "professional"way would be to cut the wall first and then roll it out then move to the next wall. That way your roller stipple covers as much of the brush lines as possible.
 

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"No primer, sprayed the walls, used a shield on the cieling (it was stomp), shielded the ceiling a second time. It was done, no picture framing."

So.....you just sprayed two coats finish paint w/no backrolling? Was it smooth wall or textured? I assume the stomp texture is on the ceiling?

Do you use a sanding pole between coats? How did it look?
 

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"No primer, sprayed the walls, used a shield on the cieling (it was stomp), shielded the ceiling a second time. It was done, no picture framing."

So.....you just sprayed two coats finish paint w/no backrolling? Was it smooth wall or textured? I assume the stomp texture is on the ceiling?

Do you use a sanding pole between coats? How did it look?

It looked like he was trying to make money at $1.00 sq ft.
 

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Should of primed. Aaron I think he said it was bare drywall thats why they said to prime. Definitely should of primed with all those windows. Also Duration Home is not self priming that is the exterior stuff only. There is however a 200 line that is self priming but I have not used it and considering that many contractors dont even know it exist and its been out for a while its probably not very good.
 

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since it was this type of a lowball job, it didn't call for sprayed trim.
This is an interesting statement. I charge more to brush doors and jambs then I do to spray them, unles the conditions to spray are not an option without a lot of extra masking and then I would just charge my brush price and brush them.
 

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This is an interesting statement. I charge more to brush doors and jambs then I do to spray them, unles the conditions to spray are not an option without a lot of extra masking and then I would just charge my brush price and brush them.
Work, I sell a service. Alot of folks take exception to that. The GC wanted a NC done for 1.35. Therefore, no primer. I sprayed the walls, shielded the ceiling and trim. The trim was pre-primed(with that crappy stuff they do it with). Yes thats correct, ome coat, no primer. I brushed the trim because I was only spraying the walls once. They feel fine, no grit. After I sprayed the walls, I caulked all the trim, heavy, setting my "cut" line with caulk. So I could brush the trim fast, no skill needed there. I understand that this is not the best way to paint a house, but i did a 1680 sq/ft in 5 days. Good enough for me and the GC loves it. After doing like 150 of these in the same devision, I think he's fairly well satisfied. I prefer to DO IT RIGHT, but I give em what they want. However I don't give em a 3.00 job for 1.35
 

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Work, I sell a service. Alot of folks take exception to that. The GC wanted a NC done for 1.35. Therefore, no primer. I sprayed the walls, shielded the ceiling and trim. The trim was pre-primed(with that crappy stuff they do it with). Yes thats correct, ome coat, no primer. I brushed the trim because I was only spraying the walls once. They feel fine, no grit. After I sprayed the walls, I caulked all the trim, heavy, setting my "cut" line with caulk. So I could brush the trim fast, no skill needed there. I understand that this is not the best way to paint a house, but i did a 1680 sq/ft in 5 days. Good enough for me and the GC loves it. After doing like 150 of these in the same devision, I think he's fairly well satisfied. I prefer to DO IT RIGHT, but I give em what they want. However I don't give em a 3.00 job for 1.35
I understand that Capt, I was just commenting on the spray trim is more $ than brushed trim. I do a good bit of NC and have for years and the trim gets sprayed except for the windows and top layer of crown. If I was asked to brush the trim for the same dollar figure I would explain that it takes me longer to brush doors and jambs then it does to spray them so the cost would be higher. I can understand a job where the scheduling was done poorly but would still expect and explain why a higher dollar figure is given to brush trim than spray the trim. That is why my comment about price being higher for sprayed trim.

I was not taking a jab at your way of doing things, I was just surprised you saw it that way. I understand that a 1.35 jobs have to have some corners cut to turn a profit. I myself would not want to trust the factory primer with a topcoat but that is just me.
 

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Yeah, we don't know what the color is, that is usually the problem. The biggest problem I ever had with PF is when we tried to match a very dark green color that was almost black. We tried to match the color in several different paint brands and never got it to work good.
 

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i used sw pro mar 200.homeowner didnt want to pay for prime coat.it was new drywall.ive done many houses where ho didnt want to pay for prime just 2 coats but never had a problem.2 coats roll and brush usually in my case never picture framed but this for some reason is
Don't understand what you guys love about pro mar really. Super spec is a much better paint, and pretty much the same price. I am gonna have to second coat a ceiling tomorrow on a repaint, white over white because of this very thing.

It also stinks to hell, HO complained first thing because it was so strong. Her exact words were why didn't you use the same paint from when you did our addition.
 

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You have to read the lables or look it up online. Here is some specs cut and pasted from S/W's site. this is for Pro Mar 200


SPECIFICATIONS​
Drywall​
1 ct. ProMar 200 Latex Primer​
2 cts. ProMar 200 Interior Latex Flat
 

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Next time use this:

Pro Mar 200 XP


Product Literature (PDF 358KB)

Delivers high-build, uniform finish direct-to-drywall in one less coat. Available in eg-shel or a new flat finish.
Features:

  • Provides tremendous hide — no primer needed
  • Minimizes drywall fuzz
  • Conceals minor surface imperfections
  • Hides differences in mud porosity
  • Save a coat to save time and money
 

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Just re-cut one of the walls again and see what happens. We always cut twice then roll twice, never had a problem in 15 years.
 

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I understand that Capt, I was just commenting on the spray trim is more $ than brushed trim. I do a good bit of NC and have for years and the trim gets sprayed except for the windows and top layer of crown. If I was asked to brush the trim for the same dollar figure I would explain that it takes me longer to brush doors and jambs then it does to spray them so the cost would be higher. I can understand a job where the scheduling was done poorly but would still expect and explain why a higher dollar figure is given to brush trim than spray the trim. That is why my comment about price being higher for sprayed trim.

I was not taking a jab at your way of doing things, I was just surprised you saw it that way. I understand that a 1.35 jobs have to have some corners cut to turn a profit. I myself would not want to trust the factory primer with a topcoat but that is just me.
I understand that Work, but in this cheap senario, One brush on the trim, and one coat on the wall. It works quicker and better. It ain't like they were looking for the RIGHT way to do it.

I prefer to spray the walls with primer (tinted ifin thats an option), then spray the trim, sand the walls, power roll the second coat and cut in, leaveing a REAL cut line. But this was a Blow and Go job.

I have said before, I can give it to you right, or I can give it to you right now, you can't have both.:thumbsup:
 

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This is an interesting statement. I charge more to brush doors and jambs then I do to spray them, unles the conditions to spray are not an option without a lot of extra masking and then I would just charge my brush price and brush them.
I agree, if we are compareing apples to apples,,, But this was a blow and go NC job, so I caulked the trim heavy, meaning the caulk run on the wall, setting a straight line, even if it was on the wall. Then a fly by brush on the trim with a 3" brush finishes it up. Its way quicker than real brushing, but does the job for the GC's.

disclaimer: I in no way purpose this for a REAL paint job, but it works for Blow and GO :notworthy:
 

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just another though, the "professional"way would be to cut the wall first and then roll it out then move to the next wall. That way your roller stipple covers as much of the brush lines as possible.
Agreed, but we are not talking about real painting here, we are talking about NC
 

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"No primer, sprayed the walls, used a shield on the cieling (it was stomp), shielded the ceiling a second time. It was done, no picture framing."

So.....you just sprayed two coats finish paint w/no backrolling? Was it smooth wall or textured? I assume the stomp texture is on the ceiling?

Do you use a sanding pole between coats? How did it look?
No, I back rolled. You got to back roll, no matter HOW many coats you put on.

I only sprayed ONE coat of paint, backrolled it, then shielded again the second time(ceiling line and baseboard).
 

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No, I back rolled. You got to back roll, no matter HOW many coats you put on.

I only sprayed ONE coat of paint, backrolled it, then shielded again the second time(ceiling line and baseboard).
Gotcha! Didn't (at first) realize you were doing NC. I did the same in a tract of 37 new houses......Spray and backroll one coat on walls and ceilings. Same color. Looked like sh** to me, but everyone else was happy. :thumbsup:
 

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Agreed, but we are not talking about real painting here, we are talking about NC
I understand that, but we are also talking about a problem with picture framing and when you run into problems no matter what type of work you are doing you have to do what you know is correct to at least try and solve the problem.
 

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I understand that, but we are also talking about a problem with picture framing and when you run into problems no matter what type of work you are doing you have to do what you know is correct to at least try and solve the problem.
I understand that,,, for sure,,, but I have found that the more exspensive the paint,,, the more problems you have with cutting in with a brush behind or in front of the roller. I just can't understand for the life of me, why the better the paint, the worse it is !!!!!!

Way too much for a ******* to understand !!!!

Ya know,,, the pros HATE valspar and Behr, but they cut in, behind or in front, with no prob. Beats me,,,,,,,, Back to my beer now
 
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I seem to have gotten the habit of cutting part of a wall in then rolling that part. My reasoning is to keep the paint wet.

Also, I may have primed the walls. The sheen, color change, and general conditon of the wall would have decided this for me.

I guess you could try the mini roller in one room or on one wall with the same sie nap as you used to roll the walls and kind of feather it out.

Did you tip the cutin of for were you heavy on the brush from first to last stroke? I tend to just tip it off on the last stroke of the brush. My last stroke also ends in the wet paint. It seems being heavy on the brush when cutting in leaves shiney area.s or too heavy paint. I also feather my cutin sometimes leaving no distinct line of heavy paint. Maybe it fools the eye if I get it a little heavy/thicker. Depends on how the paint and or brush is performing.

I haven't used the new BM paint where you let it dry then come back and cut in.

The switching back and forth between the brush and the roller may be a little hectic, but some these paints start setting up pretty quick and I try to keep the cutin and field wet when blending them into one and another.
 
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