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:rolleyes: My 2 cents:

I know the never use tape guys will bash this but sometimes when I paint base over carpet I stick mini blind slats between the base and carpet all the way around the room, paint, then pull them out before the paint dries, and throw them in a bucket. It’s 10 times faster then taping and you can use them over and over on other jobs.
 

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Sounds like a neat tip. Personally, I don't like a whole lot of junk and tools.

A regular old edger works for me. I pre-slide before painting. That tucks the carpet in a consistent manner to make it look even better than before painting.

After that, the edger moves along with the paint. Lift the front end a little bit, slide it along, pull it out, wipe it, repeat.
 

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Flog a Mocker
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Spray Foam - spray insulation in a can works great instead of backer rod for those cracks that look like the Red Sea. Spray it in and 15min later shave it off and caulk. I had a chimney that was settling away from the house with 1 1/2 inch gap at the top. After it was secured the a can rolling around in the tool box worked like it was meant to be!
 

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********...very cool idea-no wiping necessary until the end and re-usable

10 times better than an edger :thumbsup:
 

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Spray Foam - spray insulation in a can works great instead of backer rod for those cracks that look like the Red Sea. Spray it in and 15min later shave it off and caulk. I had a chimney that was settling away from the house with 1 1/2 inch gap at the top. After it was secured the a can rolling around in the tool box worked like it was meant to be!
I like that spray foam, but unfortunately it can be used only once. You can't save the can and use it over and over, can you?
 

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After painting windows and doors i sometimes use WD 40 or baby powder ( only after they have dried for a few hours and need to be shut ) so they won't stick after closing them.
 

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Flog a Mocker
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I like that spray foam, but unfortunately it can be used only once. You can't save the can and use it over and over, can you?
Even at a one time use at, about $5-$6 bucks a can, it can easily save that much in time and backer rod.
 

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I see guys on there hands and knees brushing a deck with stain and chuckle. A garden sprayer full of stain and a big deck brush that is threaded for an extension pole (wooster bravo) and away you go. Saves the back and a lot of time.:thumbsup:
 

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If glueing drywall before screwing it in, do not leave go of it before screwing as the glue does no good when not dry. For Tim. :shutup:
 

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For repairing nail-pops more quickly:

I've seen people dig out the nail pop, deal with the screw or ring nail, and then fill that deep hole with joint compound which takes FOREVER to dry. I know this isnt exactly rocket science and I'm sure others have done this, but I mix up a little sheetrock 20 and fill the hole only with no overlap, let that set and then skim over with drydex(or dry spackle filler of your choice). The repair is ready to sand and prime in several hours instead of waiting for two applications of wet joint compound to dry properly.
 

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Before you open a used paint can, mark the location of the lid. When you close the can up for the day put the lid on in the same spot. This works great for the really old crusty ones.
 
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I'm sure you guys do this anyway, but thought I would put this down just in case someone hasn't worked this out yet.

When masking, I always seal the edge of the tape I'm painting up to either by caulking it, but be sure to wipe most of the caulk off otherwise when you peel out you'll take the caulk with you. You can also seal it with the paint color that you are trying to protect, that way when it bleeds underneath it will be the same color your protecting, this works great when your doing stripes on walls etc.
 

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If your using Pro classic or another brand for spraying trim and you need to do a touch up with a foam roller, blow on it to pop the air bubbles that can form. Otherwise it can dry with a rough surface. It turns out real smooth and doesnt look like you touched it up, because it blends so well.
 
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