[thattherepainterlady]

I’m only experienced with SuperDeck from Sherwin and i’m just not liking it. Then, i looked into some reviews online and found it’s one of the lower rated stains.

I’ve looked into Behr and Ready Seal but would like more info from anyone who has a different preference and please list reasons why

Thank you in advance!

Edit: Looking for semi-transparent or semi-solid

 

[Don Painting Services]

I’ve looked into Behr

Lol, I don't think that there is a faster way to ruin your reputation as a professional painter then by using Behr deck stain.
Even semi aware DIY's are staying away from that g**bage.

 

[thattherepainterlady]

Lol, I don't think that there is a faster way to ruin your reputation as a professional painter then by using Behr deck stain.
Even semi aware DIY's are staying away from that g**bage.

I’ve never used it. A different painter recommended it to me. When i researched the ratings, they were positive. But that’s as far as I’ve gotten.

Do you have a recommendation?

 

[stelzerpaintinginc.]

If you're referring to semi-trans, Ready Seal works well, is non film-forming, easy to apply, easy to maintain, and even touches up well if the need should arise.

 

[thattherepainterlady]

If you're referring to semi-trans, Ready Seal works well, is non film-forming, easy to apply, easy to maintain, and even touches up well if the need should arise.

i should have clarified that. My bad! Yes, definitely looking for semi-trans or semi-solid. I’ve read good things about Ready Seal. Does it do well being sprayed though? Do you feel you have to run 2 coats or one?

 

[Joe67]

i should have clarified that. My bad! Yes, definitely looking for semi-trans or semi-solid. I’ve read good things about Ready Seal. Does it do well being sprayed though? Do you feel you have to run 2 coats or one?

The basic standard for most any ext stain is two thin coats. Not sure about the point of the spray question. Most any stain sprays well, but that doesn't mean that you don't have to still back brush it.

 

[cocomonkeynuts]

ready seal and other non drying oils are for new wood only cannot use over existing stain, good choice if you can sell client on a recoat schedule. IMO best off the shelf quality stain is dalys. More local options may be Sikkens SRD, TWP100, benjaminmoore 326 is really good too but limited colors and gallons only keep me from using it.

 

[Don Painting Services]

There is a very good reason why few seasoned painters decided to stay away from doing decks ever again.
Decks are not as easy to do as it seems.
Different woods, different clearance installations from the ground re moisture issues, and few other aspects,
like new wood or refinishing previously coated deck, all that calls for different product to match specific situation.

Sometimes using chemicals to do the prep work, other times using orbital or belt sanders, and so on.
There is no one product that can be chosen as "my go to" deck stain.
Also 2-3 perhaps 4 years before the finish starts to fail, and many times HO forgets what the painter told them at the beginning of the work that it might start failing in 2 or 3 or 4 years,
and that it will need maintenance coat.
Some of the HO they just blame the painter for it.
Those HO who know you and trust you, they don't blame you for it of course, but some random maniacs do.

Couple of months ago I refinished 5 years old neglected bamboo deck.
It was fun, lol
Old time repeat customer for various other projects at their fancy house, so there was established level of trust and the expectations were clearly explained
as to doing regular maintenance coat before surface starts to wear off to the point that it will need total removal again.

 

[thattherepainterlady]

The basic standard for most any ext stain is two thin coats. Not sure about the point of the spray question. Most any stain sprays well, but that doesn't mean that you don't have to still back brush it.

Some people don’t even spray. They just cut in and roll. and some stains direct you to cut and roll rather than spray it.

I’ve sprayed before but I plan to cut and roll this stain on a fence where all the wood lays horizontal. There are way too many liabilities around the area that would get overspray. I don’t want to chance it and i’m confident a cut and roll method would do this wood well.

 

[thattherepainterlady]

ready seal and other non drying oils are for new wood only cannot use over existing stain, good choice if you can sell client on a recoat schedule. IMO best off the shelf quality stain is dalys. More local options may be Sikkens SRD, TWP100, benjaminmoore 326 is really good too but limited colors and gallons only keep me from using it.

Thank you for the info! i will look into it. Luckily, this is brand new wood

 

[thattherepainterlady]

There is a very good reason why few seasoned painters decided to stay away from doing decks ever again.
Decks are not as easy to do as it seems.
Different woods, different clearance installations from the ground re moisture issues, and few other aspects,
like new wood or refinishing previously coated deck, all that calls for different product to match specific situation.

Sometimes using chemicals to do the prep work, other times using orbital or belt sanders, and so on.
There is no one product that can be chosen as "my go to" deck stain.
Also 2-3 perhaps 4 years before the finish starts to fail, and many times HO forgets what the painter told them at the beginning of the work that it might start failing in 2 or 3 or 4 years,
and that it will need maintenance coat.
Some of the HO they just blame the painter for it.
Those HO who know you and trust you, they don't blame you for it of course, but some random maniacs do.

Couple of months ago I refinished 5 years old neglected babmoo deck.
It was fun, lol
Old time repeat customer for various other projects at their fancy house, so there was established level of trust and the expectations were clearly explained
as to doing regular maintenance coat before surface starts to wear off to the point that it will need total removal again.

thank you for all those reminders. you’re right, staining any wood takes several factors to consider. i wish there was an easier answer! luckily, this project is brand new thick wood. laid horizontally for a fence.

 

[Don Painting Services]

Best practice after rolling the stain on the surface, is to brush it, as to "push" the stain into the wood.
But that of course adds extra labor.

 

[stelzerpaintinginc.]

i should have clarified that. My bad! Yes, definitely looking for semi-trans or semi-solid. I’ve read good things about Ready Seal. Does it do well being sprayed though? Do you feel you have to run 2 coats or one?

I always do 2 then let it dry and check for areas with excess stain, and if I see any, I wipe em up.

 

[Don Painting Services]

thank you for all those reminders. you’re right, staining any wood takes several factors to consider. i wish there was an easier answer! luckily, this project is brand new thick wood. laid horizontally for a fence.

Now this adds new twist to the prep work in case of a new wood.
Is it a smooth cut or a rough cut wood, and what type of wood is it?
So called "mill glaze" (or whatever it's called by others) that shiny film on smooth cut wood, it needs to be removed using chemicals or a sander, wood fibers need to be open in order to properly absorb the stain.
Otherwise the stain will just "sit" on top of it and will start peeling by the time you drive home from the job site.

There was a quite intense discussion here couple of weeks or so ago about "mill glaze".

This is new..

UV degradation of stain and poly. "Look at the initial coating." "@Holland hit the nail on the head. It's just the degradation of the clear top coat." I don't see any stain there, everything in one sheet is peeling off, to the bare wood. Some kind of "Two-in-One" product, or perhaps indeed, as...

www.painttalk.com

 

[thattherepainterlady]

Now this adds new twist to the prep work in case of a new wood.
Is it a smooth cut or a rough cut wood, and what type of wood is it?
So called "mill glaze" (or whatever it's called by others) that shiny film on smooth cut wood, it needs to be removed using chemicals or a sander, wood fibers need to be open in order to properly absorb the stain.
Otherwise the stain will just "sit" on top of it and will start peeling by the time you drive home from the job site.

There was a quite intense discussion here couple of weeks or so ago about "mill glaze".

This is new..

UV degradation of stain and poly. "Look at the initial coating." "@Holland hit the nail on the head. It's just the degradation of the clear top coat." I don't see any stain there, everything in one sheet is peeling off, to the bare wood. Some kind of "Two-in-One" product, or perhaps indeed, as...

www.painttalk.com

so this wood is raw wood but cut well - not rough but not entirely smooth. definitely no glaze or finish on it. just some wood he bought from the local lumbar store. i can’t remember the name of the wood but it started with a P. so either Pine or Poplar unless you know of another name that starts with a P??

either way, it will be real good to stain

 

[Knobbe]

Some people don’t even spray. They just cut in and roll. and some stains direct you to cut and roll rather than spray it.

I’ve sprayed before but I plan to cut and roll this stain on a fence where all the wood lays horizontal. There are way too many liabilities around the area that would get overspray. I don’t want to chance it and i’m confident a cut and roll method would do this wood well.

Not to mention the lousy transfer rate when spraying makes it more expensive.

 

[cocomonkeynuts]

Not to mention the lousy transfer rate when spraying makes it more expensive.

yeah I always cringe watching the ready seal spray videos where they guy maybe getting 50% efficiency and only wearing a cheap n95 mask

 

[stelzerpaintinginc.]

Very easy to rig up an ultra-low pressure rig using a small pump like a 60 psi Shurflo pump, 50'-100' of Ag hose, brass wand & Teejet fittings. They are especially useful for lattice and other very hard to reach areas. The guy in this video is who I learned everything from in that regard, probably 12 years ago. His name is Shane Brasseaux and he's a legend in the deck & fence staining/stripping world. His one and only stain choice is Baker's Gray Away, and if you live in Texas or the surrounding area, it'd be the stain I'd recommend. Watch some of his videos if you ever feel inspired to learn more about wood restoration or staining exterior structures.

 

[thattherepainterlady]

Very easy to rig up an ultra-low pressure rig using a small pump like a 60 psi Shurflo pump, 50'-100' of Ag hose, brass wand & Teejet fittings. They are especially useful for lattice and other very hard to reach areas. The guy in this video is who I learned everything from in that regard, probably 12 years ago. His name is Shane Brasseaux and he's a legend in the deck & fence staining/stripping world. His one and only stain choice is Baker's Gray Away, and if you live in Texas or the surrounding area, it'd be the stain I'd recommend. Watch some of his videos if you ever feel inspired to learn more about wood restoration or staining exterior structures.

i wish i lived anywhere but Indiana but i don’t 😅 i’m just not a fan of spraying stain. it sounds like an efficient option but considering all the plastic wrap/prep, set up, moving the whole system around to reach where you need, clean up time it takes plus spraying it just to backroll and then the chance of overspray… and that’s not including if the sprayer chokes up or does something offhand that would cause a long pause to fix the issue before resuming.. and spraying is just always messy too.

yeah i would consider spraying for specific projects but mostly, i like the other method better. you’re right about the low pressure thing. that, of course, makes all the difference. i couldn’t imagine doing any higher pressure for stain.. that would just be wild to me

 

[Stefano's Painting]

I use BM's ArborCoat for every deck or exterior stain.

I like the ArborCoat because it's offered in both a latex base and an oil base. The oil base I use when I have a call to clear coat porch swings, Adirondack chairs, etc, but for everything else I use the water based. Easy clean up, doesn't slick down the customer's grass like oil based, and anything that accidentally gets paint on it I can quickly shoot with a water hose.

I think the best part about the latex based is twofold: 1) I can easily spray it with my 310FFLP tip, so the job goes smoothly at low pressure with little containment, and 2) I can get the job done really fast because it dries very fast. Recoat time is 1 hour I think, especially when spraying, andeven moreso because you're typically in hot direct sunlight when you're staining a deck.

I typically spray two coats on everything (railings, balusters), then one coat on the decking (mostly to quicklu get in the cracks of the decking boards), then once the decking is dry I roll another good coat on it and roll a nice coat on the railings (high abuse areas most prone to UV damage and damage from normal wear and tear.

I've done the transparent (needed a decent amount of backbrushing), and I've even done semi-solid black on a deck and about 300lf of fencing. The sprayer made for great results with the black... I think that if I would have brushed or rolled black on that much fencing and decking on the sunny 95° days I did the work, the result would have looked less than acceptable. The black needed a super fast application for nice results.

Anyway, my experience with that product has been good. If theres a BM dealer near you I'd suggest giving it a go. BM really has great products that are just shake, pop the lid, and apply. That's nice especially when dealing with deck stain. Those projects can get really nasty really quick.