[OraarO]

I am bidding a large (for us) warehouse interior - 600 LF @ 26' high - 15600 SF of block wall (no ceiling).

Currently unpainted, I will use a hi-build block filler, sprayed and backrolled.

I will be driving a lift for spraying.

How would you protect the floor? I know tight along the wall, obviously, but what about 5', 12', even 20' out from the wall? I would rather not have to scrub overspray off the floor, sweeping or vacuuming dry dust is OK, but still not great.

Thanks

 

[Tonyg]

I am bidding a large (for us) warehouse interior - 600 LF @ 26' high - 15600 SF of block wall (no ceiling).

Currently unpainted, I will use a hi-build block filler, sprayed and backrolled.

I will be driving a lift for spraying.

How would you protect the floor? I know tight along the wall, obviously, but what about 5', 12', even 20' out from the wall? I would rather not have to scrub overspray off the floor, sweeping or vacuuming dry dust is OK, but still not great.

Thanks

I was running a DOD job years ago, working with another company, with 30' exposed ceilings. We were spraying the steel - 3coats - with lift. We covered the floor with heavy mil poly but with not enough (the owner was cheap and wanted to keep reusing what we had). Between the lift and other trades tearing it up we spent a boat load of money to clean the floor for a very picky inspector.

I wouldn't think block filler and latex on the waslls would be that much to worry about but I would recommend taping the poly to the floor with drops on top of that. Be careful with the lift and spray anyone that comes through :whistling2:

 

[OraarO]

Tony -

Exactly why I ask now! I once had an oil-base toner I sprayed and had to deal with the same situation for the owner of the vacant space we sprayed in.

The drops allow the wheels to turn without ripping the poly, right? That sounds good to me.

How far out would you go with the poly?

 

[Tonyg]

Tony -

Exactly why I ask now! I once had an oil-base toner I sprayed and had to deal with the same situation for the owner of the vacant space we sprayed in.

The drops allow the wheels to turn without ripping the poly, right? That sounds good to me.

How far out would you go with the poly?

Well, if I had enough poly I would have covered the entire 200' by 200' room since we were doing ceilings with oil but again for latex on walls I would probably just use drops. You could use strips of plywood (2x8) to run along the walls to keep the drops from exposing the floor whle you are driving across them. The poly may be overkill for what you are doing.

 

[cole191919]

You think dryfall would be appropriate for this job?

 

[timhag]

You think dryfall would be appropriate for this job?

For those who know nothing about dry fall http://www.olearypaint.com/architect_source/tab 6/documents/500251022902.pdf

 

[cole191919]

Thanks Tim, I've only worked with it once, and it was a ceiling job for industrial company. Didn't know if it would be applicable for a block wall or concrete blocks, which like everyone has said can be applied with block filler and then latex.
I think if your worried about the floors for overspray then consider dryfall

 

[Shaggy Dog]

When you paint the walls.Use roof sheeting paper the kind you get at home depot..it gives nice line at bottom and the lift goes right over it..if you start useing this you'll love it

 

[Rustbuster]

I've used big tarps for similar jobs. A couple of drawbacks are the tarp will sometimes get caught up in the wheels form the sticky overspray. Your pot man/helper will need to keep an eye out. Another problem is the tarps can begin to shed off a lot of paint flakes after they are used several times so there tends to be a bit of sweeping that happens afterwards.