[tsunamicontract]

So I am working on a house that has decorative gable cross pieces that were missing the little rosettes. I had a local woodworker order the bits and make me some new ones because I insist on going the extra mile for my customer and haven't found out on how to sell it and really recoup all my costs for doing it . . . but anyways he made them out of redwood because it is a tighter grained wood than cedar so it was easier to cut. I was going to sand them, clean with acetone to give the primer some bite, and then I am not sure what to use for primer. Since it is new redwood it should be something oil-based to block the bleed, and I want a very thin mil build as to not mask the decorative grooves. Should I use a quick dry or slow dry oil primer? Does it matter? Topcoat is superpaint. I plan to glue them up and caulk them in, not worried about moisture problems. I couldn't find any threads on prepping and priming redwood specifically.

 

[tsunamicontract]

anything?

 

[bikerboy]

Try these links. (I would use B-I-N)
http://www.askthebuilder.com/066_Bleeding_Redwood_And_Cedar_Siding_Stains.shtml

http://www.mfp.com/why-redwood.php#faq_q26

http://www.mcvicker.com/twd/gwdi05/page032.htm

 

[slickshift]

Just ask your local paint supplier
They'll carry what they carry for this app
(Z's Cover Stain, BM's QD Freshy, etc.)
Doesn't really matter too much which one, none are high build, but it'll be a quick dry oil rated for wood bleed

 

[NACE]

Long oil vs short oil will not make a differnence in that you are creating a tight seal with sealant and glue. As long as the moisture content of the redwood is 8-12%, and you insure that no more moisture can get to the bare wood, a short oil primer should block tannins that may be activated by the latex topcoat. Insure that film thickness is sufficient without compromising the aesthetics. Film thickness and sealing with an oil primer should prevent the wood from moisture intrusion. If there are any sharp edges, champher or sand them to prevent the film or viscous fluid from "drawing down" and creating too thin a film for proper protection. It is important to use a top quality "sealant" and not caulk, as caulk will not elongate or have memory if the joint expands and contracts. Does that make sense?

 

[tsunamicontract]

NACE, something like this? http://www.stickwithpl.com/Products.aspx?ID=Polyurethane-Window-Door-Siding-Sealant
or would SW powerhouse be good enough?http://www.sherlink.com/sher-link/c...lcs_catalog_item_sku=1326776&onlyDetails=true

I am also curious if I should backprime the rosettes if I am gluing them. Will the adhesive do better on a primed surface or on bare wood? This might be a CT question i suppose.

 

[vermontpainter]

I wouldnt backprime if I was gluing. If I had to choose between the two, I would backprime, predrill and put a 4d nail through them. It would be a bummer if those things fell off and got picked up by a neighbors dog after all the trouble and cost you have gone through to get them. Use a fastener.

 

[NACE]

All bare wood should be primed before caulking to insure that there is good adhesion and that caulk/sealant resins are not absorbed into the wood and the caulk/sealant becomes "resin starved" I checked the TDS on the PL and it looked fine for that application. I agree too, that if you are going to glue, not use use a primer, but prime if you are going to use a metal fastener. Make sure that the fastener is stainless, as zinc in galvanized reacts with tannins. You get black streaks and accelerate the corrosion of the nail. I am partial to another brand, but my policy has always been never speak negatively about other companies in your industry as you may be working for them some day. Just as the Zinsser Reps.