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Prepping semi gloss painted walls with heavy orange peel for satin paint

18K views 41 replies 15 participants last post by  RH  
#1 ·
Looking for ideas for prepping/deglossing semi gloss paint on orange peel walls. I can't really sand because of heavy orange peel, too rough. Was thinking of using a scotch bite pad on rectangular pole sander, not as aggressive as sand paper.
 
#2 ·
I don't think scotch brite pads will do much to it, they will get soft and ineffective after few passes.
I would skip that process.
The time you spend with scotch brite pads will be probably the same or not much longer as applying good quality bonding primer.
If priming is not in the budget then make sure to use high quality top coat so it will have strong adhesion properties.

Also there is a product called Deglosser, but it has very strong chemical smell, and I wouldn't personally use it on a large wall surface.
Home-Depot sells Krud Kutter brand, and SW has one too.


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#3 · (Edited)
I personally use 5" orbital sander with vacuum cleaner attached to it when prepping walls for painting, usually 100 grit paper, or 120 if walls are really smooth.
In case of a very heavy orange peel I would consider 80 grit.

Also, as great as the FESTOOL sanders and vacuum cleaners are, they are very expensive.
Maybe you already have this type of set up, but if not, here are some tips.
You can put togheter very effective set up with good brand 5" orbital sander and a commercial vacuum cleaner at a very affordable price.

This model of RIDGID vacuum is a very good choice at good price, yes they are on the loud side, but they have really strong suction.
You can get the same model without the wheels too.

Make sure to use bags in that vacuum cleaner, don't rely on the filter alone.
Remove the filter and use the bag only.
Just buy extra long hose and you will be very happy with that set up.
If the store doesn't sell extra long hoses check vacuum repair shops.

Or buy this HYDE sanding kit and use their long hose with RIDGID vacuum cleaner.
Their hose is quite soft, not like some other vacuum extension hoses that can be bit stiff.
Also their connectors work great with RIDGID hose, and will work with most 5"orbital sanders too.


Might as well add this HYDE sanding kit too.
Very helpful in some cases.
 
#5 ·
I recently completed a bathroom as you mentioned but a washed the walls first with warm water/tsp, then a clean water wipe down, Festool RO with 120g to knock down the high stuff and it also leveled out some poorly done previous repairs. It was surprising how much soap film came off. Changed bucket twice! It really turn some crappy looking walls into something quite nice
 
#8 ·
I painted dozens and dozens of kitchens and bathrooms wiping walls and cabinets and trim with full strength KrudKutter Degreaser using microfiber cloth and I never rinse it,
and never ever had any issues with paint adhesion problems.
Of course I wash the cloth as soon as gathers some dirt on it, and spray KK on the surface or on the cloth, but never I wasted time going over the surfaces with clean cloth soaked in water.
Not that I'm looking to cut corners and provide substandard service, but why doing something that is not necessary, especially that when I started using KK
I tested few times on different projects for paint adhesion over unrinsed and rinsed sections of walls, kitchen cabinets and trim, and there was no issues at all, so why do it.
 
#9 ·
I painted dozens and dozens of kitchens and bathrooms wiping walls and cabinets and trim with full strength KrudKutter Degreaser using microfiber cloth and I never rinse it,
and never ever had any issues with paint adhesion problems.
Of course I wash the cloth as soon as gathers some dirt on it, and spray KK on the surface or on the cloth, but never I wasted time going over the surfaces with clean cloth soaked in water.
Not that I'm looking to cut corners and provide substandard service, but why doing something that is not necessary, especially that when I started using KK
I tested few times on different projects for paint adhesion over unrinsed and rinsed sections of walls, kitchen cabinets and trim, and there was no issues at all, so why do it.
No issue those times. The one time its an issue and you have to strip 30k+ cabinet job... having a rinse rag is well worth the sleep at night.
 
#17 ·
TSP is not really that proper to use on latex painted surfaces.
TSP was originally designed to dull down oil painted walls, when decades ago they were painted with oil.
I remember Redux in one of his posts explained that very well, and why actually is not supposed to be used cleaning latex coated surfaces.
Tho is a good strong cleaner it has some cons, one of them being toxic when using inside, especially in small rooms like bathrooms.
Good ventilation must be provided in small rooms.

Here are more cons of using TSP.
Cons of Cleaning with TSP
  • Toxicity: Being toxic, TSP must be handled with care. That means wearing the appropriate protective gear. T-shirts and shorts are a no-no. Instead, wear full-sleeve clothing in addition to gloves, glasses, and a respiratory mask. And if you’re going to be working indoors, you must adequately ventilate the area.
  • Danger to landscaping: If using TSP outdoors (especially if mixing it with bleach), use only as much TSP as you need and tightly control the runoff. Be sure to protect your landscaping. Choose a windless day for your project, and hose down any nearby plants, shrubs, or tree branches, both before and after the job.
  • Environmental concerns: TSP cleaner can also be bad news for the environment as a whole. If it ends up in lakes and streams, the phosphates trigger an overgrowth of algae that results in a depletion of oxygen levels in the water, which endangers fish and aquatic plant life.
  • Local regulations may limit use: You should also be aware that, given the drawbacks of TSP, some municipalities have either limited its use or banned its use altogether. Before starting your cleaning project, be sure to check local regulations. Also note that on the shelves of your local home center you may not find TSP, but TSP substitute instead. The latter is much safer to use, but most agree that it doesn’t clean as well as the real stuff.
  • Damage to certain surfaces: Avoid cleaning with TSP in the bathroom; it can damage metal, ceramic tile, grout, and glass. And as discussed above, it’s not suitable for painted surfaces
I would never use that stuff.
It's an old school and very outdated product that has no place to be used today when so many better nontoxic alternatives exist, like Krud Kutter Degreaser, or Eco TSP (Phosporous Free TSP), Dirtex and few others.
I wish I had time to look for that post by Redux.
 
#30 ·
Im 99 percent certain its orange peel texture the Original post was refering too. It says semigloss paint on orange peel wall. To me that means the wall has an orange peel texture. Also why they said they can not sand it due to the heavy orange peel. I could be wrong but that is why I said Just prime with bonding pimer and paint it. If its a smooth wall than yes sand it smooth first but that is not how I read the original post.
 
#32 ·
I'm assuming you mean orange peel as in the drywall texture, not the paint itself leaving orange peel. That's pretty common in rentals/high traffic buildings.

If that's the case, and it's not oil base, just top coat it with any decent paint, and you'll be fine. If it's oil base, use a bonding primer and then top coat.

It's honestly very rare these days to find wall paint that quality paint won't stick to. It's usually some oddball material. In most cases though, a bonding primer is more than adequate.
 
#35 ·
So I didn't tell you all how I got the "frosting " off the windows that resulted from TSP getting on them, because the process was strange, but it did work. I did some desperate research and experimenting, and in the end we did this: Started with single edge razor blades and spray cans of Dirtex. Some one suggested WD40 be added to the mix. Who was I not to try something outside the box. For whatever reason it helped. So we sprayed the Dirtex and WD40 on the "frosted glass" (pun intended), and then were able to remove it with the razor blades. I would say we sprayed about a 12" x 12" section at a time. The blades dulled really quickly, so we went through a lot of them, using a circular motion. The glazer had told me to never clean glass with a utility knife blade, thus the razor blades. Didn't"t put the blades in a holder/knife because they dulled too fast to bother with it. There were areas where I could still see it a little, but it didn't bother the customer.
 
#37 ·
I’m kinda shocked At all the replies, that all of y’all clean the walls if I were to clean the walls before paint I would use peso or a light sand , ehh na I’d probley just prime them …. For what people want to pay these days I’m painting right over it . For sure cabinets, doors, and exterior im washing all of them , but walls . I’m putting paint over paint . It’s climate controlled I doubt people will be putting their hands all over the walls it will be just fine . Bathrooms a little different as the steam will prob cause issues with adhesion down the rd so yea I’ll prep those more .
 
#42 ·
I agree with Woodco that semi-gloss isn’t something to worry about with regards to the adhesion of another coat of paint. The only time I would wash things down (and all of these would be because of what is on the wall, not because of the paint) is in a particular dirty area like a mud room or one that might have a lot of lint/fuzz hiding everywhere like a utility room. I definitely wash down bathrooms due to the presence of chemicals (hairspray, soap residues, perfumes, etc) and most kitchens because of grease and other food related residues. Around and above the stove is a given.

I too like Krud Kutter‘s degreasing formula or the deglossing version depending on location. I almost never rinsed afterwards and never had an issue once, But yes, as CMN said, it only takes once