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Hard to know the issue. Our typical cabinet prep now is clean with regular Krud Kutter. Rinse. Sand 180. Wipe / vac. Wipe with Krud Kutter gloss off. Rinse. Stix or smart prime. I like Stix adhesion better but my guy likes how smart prime lays out and sands. Stix often gives us little craters that usually fill / go away after 2nd coat Prime. So 2 coats primer over wood cabinets , caulk front panels (not back) , two coats Scuff x. If oak we back roll at least 2nd coat primer to help fill grain.
I've read a few of your posts in older cabinet threads but hadn't seen you around, nice to converse with you. I agree with the Smart prime, lays out great and sands nice, and the tannin blocking with a water base product is fantastic as we spray an occupied homes regularly. Scuffx is great too, when I can get it!
 

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Anyone else ever wipe down their cabinet jobs with odorless thinner before priming? I used to do that as a regular part of my prep process and never had an adhesion issue.
 

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Anyone else ever wipe down their cabinet jobs with odorless thinner before priming? I used to do that as a regular part of my prep process and never had an adhesion issue.
Like mineral spirits? Maybe before an oil primer, but not a latex. I find thinner leaves a residue..
 

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Monarchski
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Hard to know the issue. Our typical cabinet prep now is clean with regular Krud Kutter. Rinse. Sand 180. Wipe / vac. Wipe with Krud Kutter gloss off. Rinse. Stix or smart prime. I like Stix adhesion better but my guy likes how smart prime lays out and sands. Stix often gives us little craters that usually fill / go away after 2nd coat Prime. So 2 coats primer over wood cabinets , caulk front panels (not back) , two coats Scuff x. If oak we back roll at least 2nd coat primer to help fill grain.
Does Scuffx feel the same to you? To me, it doesn't have that velvet feel it used to have.
 

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In the late 1970s I was working for a company that produced stamping oils. These oils were used for stamping metal parts such as car body panels.

The big news that year in that industry was that Chrysler bought some stamping oil that was contaminated with silicone. All the cars that were produced using that oil had paint failures, primarily on the roof, hook and trunk deck. The paint was coming off in sheets.

Chrysler had to pay to have those cars repainted. They included specific instructions to remove the paint down to the bare metal. But most of the paint shops relied on Prep-Sol (a solvent used to clean body surfaces prior to painting) and light scuffing.

Those paint jobs quickly failed. Chrysler found that solvent merely redistributed the silicone and very little got removed.

At the home office of Franklin Oil (the company I worked for) there was a sign on the front door: “Any salesman caught bringing silicone products or products containing silicone will be permanently banned from this facility.”

None of the above helps From The Northwest.

There are labs that will test for silicone on surfaces with what is known as a “swipe test”. They send you a kit with a special cloth that gets rubbed on the surface and returned to them for analysis. I have no idea what the cost is for this process. A google search will result in vendors.


Pledge lists silicone as an ingredient:


If this is a recurring problem with other customers, then I would consider adding a line to the contract: Surface adhesion is not guaranteed if the surfaces had provisionally been treated with products containing silicone.

Or just ask them if they had ever used Pledge or similar products on their cabinets.
 

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Try Krud Kutter or Chomp. And R.O. sand with 180. Then test. Cover stain isn't an ideal primer for cabinets. Try Agualente wb wood primer from MLC, assuming they still make it. Trust me - try it once you'll never want to use anything else.
They still make it, although there could be supply issues. A few months back they were out of stock at my distibutor and gave me Aquafi instead. I just started using that instead becuase it is compatible with all their poducts and is just as easy to use.
 
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