I used SW Lexon with SW Emerald on Exterior. Very happy with it. Now moving on to interior new dry wall paint. Drywall is not smooth finish, it has very light texture to it. Thinking of going to BM Aura for interior paint but not sure on primer. Can anyone recommend what to use for Primer and why? Thank you
Primer for New Drywall
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czego82
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Yep, there are always a lot of "depends" for me when choosing drywall primers. On the other hand, maybe that's an age issue. :whistling2:
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This isn't the thread I was thinking about, but it has some opinions from respected members.
http://www.painttalk.com/f2/drywall-primers-33818/
http://www.painttalk.com/f2/drywall-primers-33818/
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I think painters confuse plaster with drywall. I have used high quality primers for drywall vrs a PVA primer. I get better results from a PVA on fresh drywall. I would not use a PVA primer on patch work. PVA primers are meant for new construction or full remodels with new rock. If you have success with Bullseye then stick with what is working for you. I prefer PVA when painting fresh rock and mud.
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PVA is crap. It may equal the porosity of new drywall, but it doesn't seal worth crap. If you were to prime 1/2 a wall with 1,2,3 or Gardz and the other 1/2 PVA the paint will stay wet for much longer on the portion that was primed with 1,2,3 or Gardz. This is because those products have sealed the drywall, whereas PVA doesn't seal well.
At the end of the day your production rates for top coats will also be faster with 1,2,3 or Gardz.
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At the end of the day your production rates for top coats will also be faster with 1,2,3 or Gardz.
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Based upon my experience, I agree with what you just posted. I find that PVA doesn't do a good job sealing drywall, especially when a heavy knockdown texture was applied. I've had no issues when priming with 1 2 3. Based upon what I've read, I'm pretty certain Guardz would be a joy to use as a primer as it would seal better than anything else.
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Regardless of how and why a preferred primer appears to seal better than PVA over bare drywall/level five joint compound finish, painters continue to miss the point that PVA, or Poly vinyl acetate as Jerr points out, has the same resin properties as joint compound and therefore, is compatible in terms of ph.
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I use PPG 6-2. No troubles.
I've also used PPG SealGrip, but it is way overkill for new DW.
SW Masterhide is the primer of choice on NC in these parts. Doubles as the ceiling paint.
I've also used PPG SealGrip, but it is way overkill for new DW.
SW Masterhide is the primer of choice on NC in these parts. Doubles as the ceiling paint.
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I would like to see proof of that. I understand you like it and think it's great but to state that it provides a more receptive base than other primers is pretty bold. Better than SOME maybe, but better than 123 or Gardz ,I would take exception to.
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In my experience, damn near anything will work as long as you get the dust off. That is the number one issue you'll find.
Damp mop the dust and anything will work. Super-lightweight compounds have complicated this in this day and age. They are so fragile, if you look at them cross-wise, you'll have some problems.
Damp mop the dust and anything will work. Super-lightweight compounds have complicated this in this day and age. They are so fragile, if you look at them cross-wise, you'll have some problems.
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Those primers are overkill. I have no desire to prove myself to you or anyone else. Do what works for your systems.
If you are very happy with it, why bother questioning?
Don't think, do, then figure out what is working, what is not, yet primers all about the same, they prime. They are more rosin based, which makes better bound. What is the worry about... just pick and prime.
ParamountPaint, you mention a very interesting thing about new drywall, dust. I do not say that getting the majority of the dust off new drywall is a bad thing and I do that myself, but the really neat thing about Gardz (and I imagine the same for Draw-Tite and a couple of other sealers) is that it doesn't just seal the surface. It soaks through any dust remaining and goes into the drywall and saturates it because it is thin enough to do so. It is a sealer, plain and simple, no pigment to thicken it up. The dust on the surface literally becomes a part of the surface.
I would ask anyone here if they know of a better product to both seal a surface AND make dust a part of the surface so that a tape test will not even be affected by dust. I have heard that Draw-Tite is thicker than Gardz, so in this respect it might not be a good at binding the dust into the wall.
I will repeat my initial experience with Gardz. I used to strip and wax (acrylic finish) floors. The acrylic finish was milky white, smelled of banana oil and was thinner than paint. Early on in my floor refinishing days I stripped an old floor, then started applying acrylic floor finish. One coat, two coats, three coats - it wasn't covering, it was flashing. I went to my janitorial supply house and asked for help. I was told that on an old, porous floor, I needed to put down a sealer first, then the top coats would shine like the sun. I did this with the job I was having problems with and, voila! The top coats did not soak into the floor, but shined it up going over the top of the sealer.
DeArch has said here that Scotch Paint in CA took a concrete sealer and reformulated (did they, or did they just use it straight up) it for use on torn and damaged drywall, usually after stripping wallpaper. Zinsser wanted to buy the rights to Draw-Tite, but Scotch wouldn't sell, so Zinsser made their own version, Gardz.
When I first used Gardz I looked at it and thought "this looks like acrylic floor sealer." When I smelled it, I thought "this smells like acrylic floor sealer." When I used it and saw it's viscosity, I thought "this has a similar viscosity as acrylic floor sealer."
To be fair, I have not used PVA since I misused it back ion the early 80's and had to strip it off what I was doing. PVA may very well work in the manner for which it was intended for, but I would be very surprised if it could solidify surface dust into the wall or ceiling like Gardz does, then provide a moisture barrier that lets the water in the paint wick off into the room instead of being sucked up into the surface being painted such that when you finish the wall or ceiling you started to roll, the starting point would still be wet and you would not be struggling to get roller lines smoothed out before the water in the paint gets sucked into the surface and you are left with sanding them later and recoating.
As far as super-lightweight compounds go, the GC I am currently working for uses a USG blue top that dries yellow. I can practically sand it with my eyes. I can certainly sand it with my bare hand. I like to use Gardz on this so it hardens it so it doesn't dent easily.
I guess what I am trying to say is that if you haven't used Gardz for sealing drywall, you should treat yourself to the experience. You may come away feeling that it is not necessary for your line of work, but until you try it, you will not know how it works.
I guarantee that if you use 2 coats of Gardz on new drywall, you will have the best experience in putting the finish coats onto your walls or ceilings.
I have to go now. They are telling us that lights are off in 10 minutes.
futtyos
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Whatever man. If you cannot or will not explain your comments, just don't comment
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I think it really all comes down to what setting you're using it for.
Run of the mill NC track homes getting cheap chit flat as a finish, PVA all day long. I think we'd all agree gardz would be overkill. In fact if that type of work was priced with gardz you'd never get it because I'll make you too expensive.
For repaints or remodeling where the walls already have a satin type finish I'm spot priming with something like 1-2-3.
Gardz I'd consider for a custom high-end NC house getting a finish coated with good quality paint. The additional cost isn't a problem in that setting and it is by far the best drywall sealer. I'd also use gardz on a repaint that requires a full prime and is getting a satin type finish. I've tried using it for spot priming and that was a big mistake. It sealed the wall to good causing those spots to stay wet longer than everything else which resulted in flashing in certain lights.
Any who to each there own. That's what works for me, but at the end of the day if the job looks good, your customer is happy, and you get paid it's all good.
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Run of the mill NC track homes getting cheap chit flat as a finish, PVA all day long. I think we'd all agree gardz would be overkill. In fact if that type of work was priced with gardz you'd never get it because I'll make you too expensive.
For repaints or remodeling where the walls already have a satin type finish I'm spot priming with something like 1-2-3.
Gardz I'd consider for a custom high-end NC house getting a finish coated with good quality paint. The additional cost isn't a problem in that setting and it is by far the best drywall sealer. I'd also use gardz on a repaint that requires a full prime and is getting a satin type finish. I've tried using it for spot priming and that was a big mistake. It sealed the wall to good causing those spots to stay wet longer than everything else which resulted in flashing in certain lights.
Any who to each there own. That's what works for me, but at the end of the day if the job looks good, your customer is happy, and you get paid it's all good.
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What do you mean by prep coat?
I like PVA for the adhesion insurance it provides. Being able to be confident in a good bond even if you maybe didn't get %100 of the surface dust off is certainly a plus.
I have been disappointed with PVA for other reasons though. It doesn't seal as well as other all purpose primers like 123 do, and it can have a tendency to flash.
I've told this story before, but a few years back I did a whole new house with SW PVA and low luster Cashmere finish coat. After a full prime sprayed and back rolled the first coat of finish was flashing horribly. You could see every seam and nail. Even a second coat wouldn't stop the flash. I posted pics at the time, they're buried in the threads somewhere.
Got the rep and manager out to take a look, and he basically just said "well, that happens with PVA sometimes. Certain kinds of drywall mud just make it flash". They competed me the material to re-prime it, but having to do an extra coat was obviously a PITA.
That experience as well as reading about similar experiences others have had has shied me away from PVA.
I have to agree with others that Gardz is hard to beat. Nothing I've ever used even comes close to sealing the wall as well as it does.
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At $43.57 per gallon I personally might find Gardz a tricky sell for a whole home, especially if we're going to have to do two coats. I can't say that I have had any bad experiences using PVA even when top coating with Opulence (Cashmere). I would think it would be a good upgrade for walls with critical lighting or those awful ceilings I posted in another thread a few weeks back. Like everything else, it has its place.
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There is nothing to explain. Just do what works for you.
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Prep Coat is a drywall primer that evens the surface from mud to the paper on the rock. It improve the overall quality of the drywall finish. Prep coat itself is not a “sealer”, but some primers like Sherwin Williams Preprite has prep coat properties in it. Prep coat re-wets the mud dust causing it to level out.
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