You shouldn't have too many problems with white. The weather conditions may be the most important aspect to spraying it. Not too windy and of course not in the direct sun. Cut it with Flotrol and have at least two guys spraying next to each others(one gun or two guns). One is always spraying while the other is leap frogging around him. Dont spray too much at a time, keep over the ladder, about 6-8 feet high at a time and keep working across. Got too hustle. When you get to about 25-30 feet dump the ladders and get a 20ft extension pole for your gun and finish it up.
ProVT Wet Edge Time
Hello friends,
Need some advice if you don't mind helping me out. I am in the middle of doing a barn restoration. I have applied a first coat of Cabot's ProVT. Since the span is 40 feet x 60 feet and I am spraying, what technique do you suggest I use to prevent lap marks. Keeping a wet edge is the only way I know to prevent lapping.
I cannot simply wait for overcast days and much of the staining will have to be done in direct and full sun light. Would you use an latex extender like Flotrol?
Any ideas will be helpful. I am using an articulated lift but moving along, even though much faster than moving ladders, still cuts down on my ability to keep a wet edge.
Pictures are from last year. But you get the idea of the size involved. Thanks.
Stan--if you are listening--the exterior brown glue worked out very well so far.
JTP
Thanks all.
JTP
Need some advice if you don't mind helping me out. I am in the middle of doing a barn restoration. I have applied a first coat of Cabot's ProVT. Since the span is 40 feet x 60 feet and I am spraying, what technique do you suggest I use to prevent lap marks. Keeping a wet edge is the only way I know to prevent lapping.
I cannot simply wait for overcast days and much of the staining will have to be done in direct and full sun light. Would you use an latex extender like Flotrol?
Any ideas will be helpful. I am using an articulated lift but moving along, even though much faster than moving ladders, still cuts down on my ability to keep a wet edge.
Pictures are from last year. But you get the idea of the size involved. Thanks.
Stan--if you are listening--the exterior brown glue worked out very well so far.
JTP
Thanks all.
JTP
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GM
I thought you would have some good tips...remember a couple of 4th of July's ago when you painted that rather large red barn here in my town (for my former customer!)...
NEPS
JTP is using a lift here and the siding is vertical, so I dont think it should be that difficult to keep wet vertically compared to horizontally...what do you guys think, easier on vertical in terms of maneuvering the lift to stay on top of it?
OH ...WELL THEN. ITS A >>>>>>>>>
///////////still add some flotrol.................
It should be easier too keep a wet edge. The edge you should be worried about is the verticles. Just keep moving horizontal, dont get too fat and dont use a fat tip. Use a new 517 every 25-30 gallons and make sure your pressure is up.Hello friends,
Any ideas will be helpful. I am using an articulated lift but moving along, even though much faster than moving ladders, still cuts down on my ability to keep a wet edge.
JTP
You might be there a while with that pot. ...The paint one. The airless and backroll the boards should go fine even if your alone in the bucket. Just work 6 feet at a time and dont forget the sunblock!Thanks for the great ideas and suggestions. I must confess, however, that I am a one man show. I can get a helper to drive the rig around while I spray.
I did think about using oil solid stain instead of the ProVt. It was suggested to me that the ProVT would work just fine, and I think it will as long as I move along and keep that wet edge.
I really will have to do some spraying in direct sun light I think. It would be great to pick and choose the right days for this, but scheduling considerations mean I have to move along. I think I'll try the Flotrol to increase wet edge time and get me a chaffeur for big momma.
The pictures are from last year, but I will update soon with the barn completed. So, can't do any ground work--wood is up and dry.
Addtionally, I am going to try my old paint pot and compresser--the old 2 1/2 gallon pot can lay some paint on. The lap board is smooth pine. The soffits, facia, window trim are all rough sawn--altogether juice suckers. Think I'll just spray with the compressor rig, load up the grain and back brush.
I know the airless will do the same thing, but using the pot will not wear my tips or the piston out. Just bought a Titan for this specific job.
Thanks all. Please keep the suggestions coming. They are truly appreciated.
JTP
1 guy working ahead covering windows, shrubs ectOne sprayer . . . depending on the setup of the side you're on, you work it different ways but usually you'll have two guys up high on the extensions doing the leapfrog thing. If there is a lot of cutting and tight spaces down low then you have a couple guys cutting around it all (lights, small sections of clapboard, etc) with their brushes. If it's wide open down low then the sprayer gets passed down and back up. And like NEPS said, you HUSTLE. We'll be spraying one on wednesday with a pretty green crew but by the end of the summer, they'll have it down pat.
1 guy cutting
1 guy humping ladders and paint
2 guys spraying and leapfroggin'
I hope you did OK pricing that sucker out. Just glueing those knots could kill ya. I cant wait to see it done!
WOW! The only bad part about that is that we would have to listen to you pat yourself on the back on how you didn't need to tape off the white when you cut the trim in.I would only do something that scale on a t&m basis if I could do the whole thing with my 2" brush! :thumbup: That would be mint. Go ahead Neps...I just lobbed you a softball!
:thumbsup: cant wait to see it!Short Update-- I loaded up the second coat--used a 517 tip, turned the pressure dial to sizzle, and smoked that bad boy barn. Buzzed along on that 60 foot big momma lift--took me about 4-5 hours per gabel end for white with 13 windows, the soffits and facia. I over sprayed the windows and scraped them clean. Much quicker than cutting. Yeah, I know the old timers would have masked, but since the windows and siding are all the same color, what the hell--it worked great. Not a lap mark or flash through on the glue primer.
JTP
The art of spraying is similar to the art of cutting with no tape.No trick. I honestly dont spray alot and didnt even know that a 517 had a 10 inch pattern, so thanks! My thought was if you were a foot off the surface you would really have to be moving that maddog to keep from overloading it.
For example a 517 tip has a 10" fan with .017 opening ...the first digit x2= the fan width and the last two digits the opening in inches .. higher number - more product coming out.Do you mean the gun was a foot from the surface or you were getting about a foot wide fan off the gun?
It really depends on the circumstance, the texture of the wood, coverage and the product. I cant say you "always" have to back brush. Usually your primer and your first coat get back brushed and your top coat is a nice finish coat over the top.so no backbrush? and with especially with a waterbase? I don't know if there is any available information on backbrush but isn't it always recommended? Not trying to dump on your staining job JTP but what are peoples thoughts on backbrushing, especially on bare wood? maybe im hijacking the thread tho
If you have to back brush interior trim you are doing something wrong. Poor prep, wrong size tip, blown out tip, wrong pressure or just bad technique.
JTP ....Not only can you stand back and admire your work when finished ....you can drive 50 miles away to admire and see your work sitting among those fields ...Now thats good feeling!
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