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Question about the tape sticker on the seams

2309 Views 41 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  Piccolo
Good afternoon. Tell me what you are sticking paper tape for drywall seams on. Do I understand correctly that this is a special polymer composition, (NOT GYPSUM!)?
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I don't want to open a can of worms, and this is a hotly debated issue, but do you guys like mesh or paper tape? I've only ever learned to use mesh well to be honest. But, I've also torn out a decent amount of failed mesh tape over the years, too, so I do understand the downsides of it. The debate I've heard is that mesh is fine as long as you use a setting joint compound, but it will almost always fail and crack/etc eventually with normal drying premix joint compound, so whenever I've set mesh tape I've always done it with USG Easysand or Durabond hot mud(or in the case of tile backerboards, thinset) at least for the first pass, but because even Easysand doesn't sand that well I do second and third coats with premix.

I used the paper once, and set it with some hot mud that was setting off too quick for me to work with and got some blistering, and generally found it awkward to work with (was trying to make a ceiling corner) so I really don't want to use paper tape, but I've always heard it was stronger overall compared to mesh, and my bet is that mesh with setting compound still will end up stronger than premix plus paper?
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PVA Glue isn't known by PVA in USA, but usually it's sold as wood glue.

Also, if you buy Concrete or Plaster Bonding Agent, it's usually just PVA glue thinned down.

He adds glue to his compound sometimes, and does a lot of drywall repair videos if you're interested. Some people do dislike/critique him, but nonetheless he's showing his work.

To me something I thought about with my experience with paper tape doing something like that (I usually use mesh but used paper for a corner...) when using setting compound that had almost set off, if you're using setting compound it could just be too close to setting off and can't bond anymore. If you're using premixed drying compound (ie, from the bucket wet, not mixed as powder) it could just be that it needs some more water to help the tape soak up some water to bond. Or you could add more PVA glue to the mud directly, but even plain water and a thinner mud could potentially fix the problem. From the look of those joints, it looks like the mud is too thick to cleanly wipe it down with your knife/trowel, you should not have mud be as "proud" (ie, sticking out/upright) from the joints like that. However, you need a thicker coat for prefilling your joints, or a setting compound, but on your subsequent coats you could definitely thin it.
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Curious. I'll have to try. But the question is-will the gypsum powder mixture (we mainly use it for seams) freeze faster after SUPER BOND supplementation?
Are you using just straight gypsum powder? We call that "Plaster of Paris" here and only use it mixed with other things, or for large hole filling or similar work, not for general taping. That could very well be your main issue.

I've read Knauf products are available in Russia, this looks similar to our setting type compounds we use for embedding tape. They come in versions like 5 minute set or "freeze", 20 minute set, 45 minute set, and 90 minute set. So you can work with the product for around that amount of time, and then it will get hard. In my case having paper tape do that, I used it at the end of 20 minutes with 20 minute setting mud, but it would not do it if I used 45 minute or used fresh 20 minute mud. I think try to find some of that stuff for embedding your tape if it's available in your region, instead of messing around with DIY mixes of straight gypsum powder.
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It seems we are getting closer to the right answer. Products are sent to Russia KNAUF.DE because we are part of the European continent, and they are closer to us. We get only the main part of their products-putties for UNIFLOTT seams(very good stuff) and FUGENFULLER (also nothing).Well, that's probably all. Since 1998, basically no new products. They were at one time released together with grid sticker technology. Nobody knew about the paper then. Now KNAUF produces paper tape, but where to put it is unclear. You have seen the result. It remains to be hoped that sooner or later USG will enter the Russian market with its products. Paper ribbons and banjos at least are already there
Unfortunately for you, USG doesn't actually exist anymore. USG is now owned by Knauf as of a few years ago. There's a few other gypsum companies in USA like NGC that under peaceful conditions might be interested in the Russian market. However, from looking up Knauf in Russia, there's articles with sentiments that Knauf is supporting Putin and the war by simply keeping its Russian operations going and not leaving the country. So the likelihood of NGC or any other company willing to "stick its neck out" to help is pretty slim with the current war situation.

In your case then I would use mesh tape (do you mean this by grid sticker?) instead of paper tape, just because seemingly your products are just not compatible with paper tape and your process seems quite long and convoluted. Mesh is weaker in most situations but with a setting joint compound it should be strong enough and you would not have to worry about adhesion issues and it would be fully embedded in any sort of mud you use.

Most commonly in USA we use paper tape, with only premixed joint compound (the green lid bucket you have) for all coats of the taping process. The problem is, this mud is not as strong as powdered setting joint compound, but it's premixed and easy to use. You can also use it easier through a "bazooka" (maybe banjo) or automatic drywall taper, whereas setting is harder because it can set off inside. But in USA using only premixed is very common. Depending on your climate it's fine, if you're in Arizona in the desert it's dry and there's not much climatic shift or moisture to cause broken seams and screw/nail pops, but in New England with hot summers and very cold winters and moisture, it's much better to use a first coat or prefill with setting compound.

What I understand is the most ideal practice is using premix, but prefilling your initial first pass with setting joint compound, applying paper tape on your second coat with premix, and a third coat with more premix. The reason you need the setting compound for your prefill is to give some strength and rigidity to the joint and fill any gaps/etc between the boards. But premix is nice and wet and has a lot of glue in it, and should adhere paper tape fine.
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It is a pity that American mud producers will not enter Russia in the near future...very sorry...this would greatly speed up the process, we are basically prepared in practice, only the lack of good dirt for drywall slows for the mesh for seams, according to my observations, it gives about 50-60% reliable seams. The client demands 100. Therefore, together with the grid, we use fiberglass. Usually comes in rolls of 150×3 ft. The density averages 40 grams per 3 feet. This gives about 90-100% percent reliability. View attachment 115219
To us that would be overkill strong. I think to be honest outside of commercial applications most people don't think much about drywall longevity here, and it's extremely common to see houses with seams and nail pops everywhere.

That type of tape reminds me of stuff I used for tile waterproofing, to help waterproof the corners/etc instead of only using paint.

You can see it in 1:28, it looks like the same tape material. Very interesting.
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