Professional Painting Contractors Forum banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
J. R. Painting
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My question is to those of you who've re-stained siding before. I have 2 different jobs I'm looking at right now that have rough cedar lap siding that have been oil-stained/coated. Prepare yourself for a crazy question. If my thinking is totally wrong, I'll accept that and do the right thing.

I know what manufacturers say. I'd need to strip off all the old coatings. Stripping (especially where it's still in excellent condition) will take all month. My question is, is this realistic to do all this? I understand new stain won't stick on old stuff, but if it comes off, will it peel and look bad? I figure whatever doesn't come off with detergent and pressure wash rinsing is still okay and doing its job. Would new stain just disintegrate in those spots where the old stuff is working? What have been your experiences? I looked for posts on this and couldn't find any.
 

·
TDS Quality Painting
Joined
·
55 Posts
I made the same mistake once,I did not take the proper prep steps in doing re-staining. I wont ever do that again. In our climates I would definetly say to strip it all down.
 

·
J. R. Painting
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It turned out badly, huh? Let me ask this: In detail, what is the best way y'all have found to take off stain from rough siding?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,008 Posts
J R Painting said:
My question is to those of you who've re-stained siding before. I have 2 different jobs I'm looking at right now that have rough cedar lap siding that have been oil-stained/coated. Prepare yourself for a crazy question. If my thinking is totally wrong, I'll accept that and do the right thing.

I know what manufacturers say. I'd need to strip off all the old coatings. Stripping (especially where it's still in excellent condition) will take all month. My question is, is this realistic to do all this? I understand new stain won't stick on old stuff, but if it comes off, will it peel and look bad? I figure whatever doesn't come off with detergent and pressure wash rinsing is still okay and doing its job. Would new stain just disintegrate in those spots where the old stuff is working? What have been your experiences? I looked for posts on this and couldn't find any.
The way I look at it you have two choices.
1. Strip it off. Don't use the HO stuff they sell at the store get something good like HD-80 (disclaimer: I've never used it, but from what I've read on here it's good stuff)

2. Wait until its completely worn and dry all the way around.

If you stain over good stain it won't just disintegrate off. It will lay on top and look shiny. So the stain will soak into half the wood and lay one top of the other half. The end result will be that the whole thing will look blotchy.

If you don't want to strip it I would tell them I wait until the whole thing is worn enough and walk away. If you do it as you say you'll be lucky to get paid.

I don't get to stain a lot of cedar siding so maybe I'm wrong. There are a lot of guys on here that do some incredible wood refinishing that may chime in and correct me.
 

·
J. R. Painting
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
so with that stripping agent, does a guy need to scrub it intensively, or will most of it come off with power rinsing?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
359 Posts
As long as the HO is aware of how it should be done and it is clearly stated in the contract your covered. I've never stripped a house but Ive stained plenty. The shiny spots will dry in time. If the HO wont pay to strip it give him what he wants it will be fine as long as its the same color or reasonably close. Make sure its in the contract though that this not the recommended process for finishing home. You gotta give the public what they want. You could also get your paint rep to come out while the HO is there. Or sell the HO on solid stain.
 

·
Painting Contractor
Joined
·
4,066 Posts
If the material passes the splash test you should be ok. Hose it down with water. Does it bead up or absorb in after a while. If it beads up you can't recoat if. If it doesn't you should be ok. At least that is what most oil based semi trans makers say to do for decks. If the siding is more or less even, just thirsty, you should be ok. Might need to bump up to a semi solid for more evenness. Stripping can be done but takes a lot of time. We recently stripped a 3000 sf house, took 4 guys 2 days. I'm sure PP could have done it in less time, as we used pump sprayers, scrub brushes on poles, and pressure washer to rinse. I now have a down-streamer setup again so won't mess with them pampers for that application.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,097 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,097 Posts
You're gonna think I am an idiot but I am not sure what the finished boxing is. You may have been looking at out of sequence pictures as everything was covered while we were spraying. Once the painters showed, we were done. There were samples of trim color on the windows. That may be what you are seeing in some of the pics.

Tape was 3M blue done mostly with one of those applicator tools. Plastic was probably .3 mil
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,097 Posts
My apologies, boxing is what I say when referring to fascia, soffit and frieze board as a whole.
ahhh, okay, now I gotcha. It was getting painted after we were done so we just used a 3' splatter shield when spraying into the intersection.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ultimate

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,577 Posts
SH strippers can etch glass. So mask windows when applying. Pressure washing off usually blows down some of the plastic, but that is okay, as the stripper is diluted enough not to etch anymore.

Here is a during and after shot of a job we did this summer: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Exce...41449167.39909.185959458116812&type=3&theater

Here is a larger shot: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Exce...18116356.39902.185959458116812&type=3&theater

Finished: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Exce...18116356.39902.185959458116812&type=3&theater

Last one, shows difficult chimney: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Exce...18116356.39902.185959458116812&type=3&theater
 

·
J. R. Painting
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Wow, thanks guys. That is all very helpful info. I think I need to get a down-streamer. Does PP stood for Pressure Pros? The stripper won't hurt the hoses, wand and tips if I run it through there?

Hey, any of you guys know a good alternative to 3M's Duo-tack red tape? I used to use that all the time on my hand masker and since they discontinued it a few years ago, I found a cheap knock off on 1800ceilings.com, but I don't like it, although it gets me by. The core is smaller so the adapter I got from 3M won't work once the roll gets down there and it's not as sticky so I've had it fail here and there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
With the right chems, equipment and access (lift if you need it), you can chem strip an oil based semi trans finished 3000 s/f house and pH balance it in one day.

This 4500 square foot house and the large carriage house took a two man crew two days. The largest wall around the back was 50' high and ran 50 linear feet (isn't visible in the pics)

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10151108883047878.464620.138915982877&type=1&notif_t=like
Cool house! Thanks for the info.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,097 Posts
Wow, thanks guys. That is all very helpful info. I think I need to get a down-streamer. Does PP stood for Pressure Pros? The stripper won't hurt the hoses, wand and tips if I run it through there?
Yep, PP is me. The stripper doesn't hurt anything. Its not in there long enough to cause any real damage.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top