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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Have to quote on 2 of these doors. I'm thinking money is less of an issue than a quality job. All the same, I know this is going to be time consuming. How would you approach these. Solid Oak I think. Assuming they will have to be stripped right back. How long is that gonna take! Haven't stripped back a door of this magnitude. 1 side only.
 

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A lot of time that is broken up, therefore maybe charge full day rates for each day to make up for wasted time, then add an extra as a safeguard.
Sidelight must be done in place, so you may as well do the door in place also (just remove the weather stripping and door can be closed without touching).

It is likely (from the looks of it) that the existing varnish will come off pretty easily, but a lot of crevices and details (sharpened dowel). Oak is easy to stain.

1 day prep (tape all surrounding areas and plastic+tarp), stripping (4-8 hours). let door dry overnight or longer.
1 day prep (tape, tarp, light sand, etc...) and staining (4-8 hours total).
1 day/coat for clear (1-2 hours each coat).
 

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The following is a somewhat comparable exterior strip refinish in process which I did a few years ago (1 side only), although it was Sapele and not oak, and did have a transom deadlite on top. Did a complete chemical removal, followed by finish sanding, oxalic acid/neutralize, 1xBLO, plus 3 coats of a T/O formulated spar varnish...only BLO and 1st of 3 finish coats pictured.

It took ~ 20 hrs to strip/finish-sand, before finish-ready.

After prepped, I think I banged the client 4hrs minimum for 5 additional coating trips, which included intercoat abrading..

Probably took 40 hrs in total..

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
A lot of time that is broken up, therefore maybe charge full day rates for each day to make up for wasted time, then add an extra as a safeguard.
Sidelight must be done in place, so you may as well do the door in place also (just remove the weather stripping and door can be closed without touching).

It is likely (from the looks of it) that the existing varnish will come off pretty easily, but a lot of crevices and details (sharpened dowel). Oak is easy to stain.

1 day prep (tape all surrounding areas and plastic+tarp), stripping (4-8 hours). let door dry overnight or longer.
1 day prep (tape, tarp, light sand, etc...) and staining (4-8 hours total).
1 day/coat for clear (1-2 hours each coat).
Thanks Holland. Ya, that's about what I was thinking also. Was wondering whether or not to take door off just for the stripping part. Could be a messy endeavor.
 

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The following is a somewhat comparable exterior strip refinish in process which I did a few years ago (1 side only), although it was Sapele and not oak, and did have a transom deadlite on top. Did a complete chemical removal, followed by finish sanding, oxalic acid/neutralize, 1xBLO, plus 3 coats of a T/O formulated spar varnish...only BLO and 1st of 3 finish coats pictured.

It took ~ 20 hrs to strip/finish-sand, before finish-ready.

After prepped, I think I banged the client 4hrs minimum for 5 additional coating trips, which included intercoat abrading..

Probably took 40 hrs in total..

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You do beautiful work. Gorgeous! I've never seen a Sapele door before.

Fun Fact: They've started using Sapele for the backs and sides of acoustic guitars, as a replacement for Mahogany.
 

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Thanks Holland. Ya, that's about what I was thinking also. Was wondering whether or not to take door off just for the stripping part. Could be a messy endeavor.
Would be nice to have the door removed for the messy stripping part, for sure!
(maybe if they have a garage for a day??). and then just temporarily use plywood in door opening for half a day?

Otherwise maybe consider using a blue poly tarp, and then throw a canvas tarp over that to absorb liquid. Definitely wouldn't want any stripper making its way inside the house.
 

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You do beautiful work. Gorgeous! I've never seen a Sapele door before.

Fun Fact: They've started using Sapele for the backs and sides of acoustic guitars, as a replacement for Mahogany.
Thanks Holland...yeah, I picked up a relatively inexpensive Martin acoustic which is made of Sapele...I think Taylor & Gibson are sourcing mahogany from Fiji nowadays..same place where we’ve sourced mahogany for some of our projects..
 

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Thanks Holland...yeah, I picked up a relatively inexpensive Martin acoustic which is made of Sapele...
Martin. Very Nice!

I thought this was interesting (you probably already know this) Taylor bought the rights to a large share of available Ebony, which is an endangered wood species. Has started to affect all guitar manufacturers. Will start seeing streaked ebony in all instrument makers as a result.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The following is a somewhat comparable exterior strip refinish in process which I did a few years ago (1 side only), although it was Sapele and not oak, and did have a transom deadlite on top. Did a complete chemical removal, followed by finish sanding, oxalic acid/neutralize, 1xBLO, plus 3 coats of a T/O formulated spar varnish...only BLO and 1st of 3 finish coats pictured.

It took ~ 20 hrs to strip/finish-sand, before finish-ready.

After prepped, I think I banged the client 4hrs minimum for 5 additional coating trips, which included intercoat abrading..

Probably took 40 hrs in total..

View attachment 112195
View attachment 112193
View attachment 112194
Wow. Ya I'd say that was atleast 20hrs prep. Thanks Redux. Looks fantastic. What's BLO btw?
 

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Wow. Ya I'd say that was atleast 20hrs prep. Thanks Redux. Looks fantastic. What's BLO btw?
I would guess less for yours...the one I did pictured had 36 glass lites plus muntins on the transom and sidelights which were very time consuming..your door however has a lot more raised panels, and prepping those profiles are time consuming..

For something like that I’d quote an hourly rate on the prep (t&m) and maybe a fixed price on the coatings,

BLO is boiled linseed oil...T/O being tung oil..
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I would guess less for yours...the one I did pictured had 36 glass lites plus muntins on the transom and sidelights which were very time consuming..your door however has a lot more raised panels, and prepping those profiles are time consuming..

For something like that I’d quote an hourly rate on the prep (t&m) and maybe a fixed price on the coatings,

BLO is boiled linseed oil...T/O being tung oil..
Cool. So you used the linseed oil as a colorant/sealer first and finished it with a Tung oil Spar Varnish.? Is it necessary to wash it all with oxalic acid after you sand?!
 

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If quality is really more important than cost, try to get them to go with T&M.

These kind of projects are always tough to pin down so I tell people that although I can bid it, I will have to bid fairly high to make sure I cover myself for unexpected developments. But with T&M they will only pay for the time it really takes. Just give them daily updates so they don’t get an unpleasant shock at the end - always the biggest downside of T&M.
 
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The following is a somewhat comparable exterior strip refinish in process which I did a few years ago (1 side only), although it was Sapele and not oak, and did have a transom deadlite on top. Did a complete chemical removal, followed by finish sanding, oxalic acid/neutralize, 1xBLO, plus 3 coats of a T/O formulated spar varnish...only BLO and 1st of 3 finish coats pictured.

It took ~ 20 hrs to strip/finish-sand, before finish-ready.

After prepped, I think I banged the client 4hrs minimum for 5 additional coating trips, which included intercoat abrading..

Probably took 40 hrs in total..
How would you tackle this now that methylene chloride strippers are unavailable?
 

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Cool. So you used the linseed oil as a colorant/sealer first and finished it with a Tung oil Spar Varnish.? Is it necessary to wash it all with oxalic acid after you sand?!
That's typically how we finish doors, windows, most trim packs. We use benite for that purpose in place of Tung/BLO as it applies easier and is much faster.
 

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Cool. So you used the linseed oil as a colorant/sealer first and finished it with a Tung oil Spar Varnish.? Is it necessary to wash it all with oxalic acid after you sand?!
I know you asked @Redux, and he'll likely give a better answer than I, but for any natural and/or semi-trans finish, I'm a big fan of using oxalic after the stripping. Depending upon the stripper, it might be absolutely necessary. Some strippers are highly alkaline, (lye, for example), and should always be followed up with an acid to not only neutralize the wood and bring it back down to a favorable pH for staining, but also to lighten the wood back up, since strippers containing lye will darken most woods. Oxalic is also great at removing the black streaks from old wood caused by fasteners which bleed over time.
 
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