?
20 views but no answers............
20 views but no answers............
Refinishing lacquered cabinets
Gloss white lacquered pressed hardboard cabinets are chipping where ogee type mold was cut on edge of the door faces.
I know delicate sanding is necessary.
What should I use as a primer and finish paint type?
Is it possible to touch up the raw areas then finish coat with out a complete prime?
I know delicate sanding is necessary.
What should I use as a primer and finish paint type?
Is it possible to touch up the raw areas then finish coat with out a complete prime?
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Yeah, sorry zip...reading it I thought it was a new cab finishing Q
That's pretty specific....I left it alone for a cab fin to answer
Maybe there's none around
Re-reading it...these are old cabs?
It's a "re-paint" kinda deal?
It's actual lacquer?
As far as I know, sand and full prime, then paint
If it's actual lacquer, I'm not sure how oil primer would work, I might use a pigmented shellac to be sure
A waterborne enamel would be fine for paint
(BM Impervo or SWP Pro Classic)
That's pretty specific....I left it alone for a cab fin to answer
Maybe there's none around
Re-reading it...these are old cabs?
It's a "re-paint" kinda deal?
It's actual lacquer?
As far as I know, sand and full prime, then paint
If it's actual lacquer, I'm not sure how oil primer would work, I might use a pigmented shellac to be sure
A waterborne enamel would be fine for paint
(BM Impervo or SWP Pro Classic)
We always use pro block oderless oil primer or latex bonding primer with an oil satin, semi gloss, or gloss finish depends on the customers preference. When painting stainned and varnished cabinets we sand them well and wash with willbond prior to the coating process.
If they are already painted we sand them well, spot prime if needed and recoat
If they are already painted we wash them with simple green and tsp to remove any greese and or oils.
If they are already painted we sand them well, spot prime if needed and recoat
If they are already painted we wash them with simple green and tsp to remove any greese and or oils.
Cabinets
It's a repaint over factory applied lacqer on MDF board doors and drawer fronts and a section of dental crown that must remain in place.
Plan at present is to remove doors, carefully sand peeling areas then sand rest of front & edges.
I guess I'll try production lacquer on a pretty, dry morning.
Any tips? Can I do it with my HVLP sucessfully?
It's a repaint over factory applied lacqer on MDF board doors and drawer fronts and a section of dental crown that must remain in place.
Plan at present is to remove doors, carefully sand peeling areas then sand rest of front & edges.
I guess I'll try production lacquer on a pretty, dry morning.
Any tips? Can I do it with my HVLP sucessfully?
Ah...I see
Yes you can
I have no tips, sorry, as I was not the one doing it, merely a helper for one who did for a few projects like this
But I can say I've seen it done successfully
IIRC the gentleman I was helping said he did it quite often when working for a cabinet finisher
Yes you can
I have no tips, sorry, as I was not the one doing it, merely a helper for one who did for a few projects like this
But I can say I've seen it done successfully
IIRC the gentleman I was helping said he did it quite often when working for a cabinet finisher
We usually try to set up a shop in the clients basement or spare room if posible so we dont have to transfer everything to shop and back. HVLP is ideal and the best sprayer to use, although we use an airless sprayer anymore for the past 5 years or so. Gracco makes fine finish tips for jobs like this makes it go a little faster.
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
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