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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Most of the time I get screwed on drawer faces but I've had a couple now where they're brad nailed. I've been just keeping the faces on and masking the drawer off. I'm wondering though, do any of you find it ends up being easier to just cut the faces off/ pry them off and re-screw them afterwards?

Edit: I think I'll just cut through the brads
 

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I've only had to deal with this at my own house. I'd be inclined to pry them off. Or at least try in a way that doesn't make even more work... Pull the drawer, flip it over to work from the bottom where any marring is not really visible. Get it started by tapping in a sharp 5-in-1. Wiggle to get it started. Wiggle some more to get it looser... If any forceful prying is needed, use an old putty knife to protect important and visible surfaces. And then, yes. Screw them back on for reinstall. That's what I'd do anyway.
 

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Most of the time I get screwed on drawer faces but I've had a couple now where they're brad nailed. I've been just keeping the faces on and masking the drawer off. I'm wondering though, do any of you find it ends up being easier to just cut the faces off/ pry them off and re-screw them afterwards?

Edit: I think I'll just cut through the brads
We may not paint as many cabinets as some... but, I find it easier to leave them as they are and just bag them.
They take up more space, but they usually stand upright and dry level.

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Im with Holland. I always bag them. you can stand them up wet, and also stack them up high, so it makes things easier, but more importantly, drawer faces need to be aligned and adjusted to the drawer. You dont want to open that can of worms....Can you imagine putting a kitchen back together and have all the drawers be just a tad bit crooked and misaligned with each other? No thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Im with Holland. I always bag them. you can stand them up wet, and also stack them up high, so it makes things easier, but more importantly, drawer faces need to be aligned and adjusted to the drawer. You dont want to open that can of worms....Can you imagine putting a kitchen back together and have all the drawers be just a tad bit crooked and misaligned with each other? No thanks.
That's a good point. I was thinking what I would do is shoot a few screws through it before I pry it off, so when I went back to reinstall I would have perfectly lined up screw holes where they needed to be. I'm no carpenter, and if I didn't do that I would be toast !
 

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I just use masking paper to cover the drawer boxes - same idea as bagging them, just a different way to go about it.
 
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Im with Holland. I always bag them. you can stand them up wet, and also stack them up high, so it makes things easier, but more importantly, drawer faces need to be aligned and adjusted to the drawer. You dont want to open that can of worms....Can you imagine putting a kitchen back together and have all the drawers be just a tad bit crooked and misaligned with each other? No thanks.
Not taking them off is definitely the safe route. Although, theoretically they should go back on exactly the same because the handles are holding it on to the drawer so it can only go back exactly where it came from. Still have to double check alignment though. Always. And make sure to label which way is up!
 

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Masking / bagging is also just fine. When you first posted it just sounded like you were looking for an alternative. And yes, if you do decide to pull any faces instead for some reason, predrill / install and remove screws so you don't have to mess with the face alignment.
 

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Ive built drawers for custom stuff before, and aligining drawer faces was always a nightmare, granted Im sure there are tricks I dont know. I ended up having to make the holes in the drawer itself rather big, so there was some wiggle room to slide the face around a smidge. Its just SO much easier to keep the drawer complete. I get how you'd want to paint the back side properly, but its just not worth the extra effort. Noones gonna inspect the backside.
 

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I’ve done a few cabinet jobs where the customer definitely wanted the inside of the drawer faces painted. I just ran tape up along both sides of the drawer box sides and along the floor (?) of the drawer box where they butt up against the back of the face. Then I just taped masking paper to that tape (not being all that careful) and made sure the rest of the box was also covered. Doing that made it possible to also spray the visible parts of the back of the drawer fronts. Of course this all takes more time so you need to make sure this is decided during the discussion part of the job - not as an afterthought.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well I decided to bag em up. I removed two faces, cut through the brads with a multi tool then pried. The second one roughed up the drawer box a little bit, and that was all I needed to convince me to not go that route. I won't be able to use my fancy new erecta rack for them but that's okay, there are plenty of doors on this job too:) thanks for all the two cents guys much appreciated.
 

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ErectaRacks are a great trade off in "space vs. functionality". They are portable and versatile: work equally well for full size doors and any length trim.

FWIW- I started loosely putting taping across the bars when painting cabinets, to keep doors clean. A little extra hassle, but once they get paint on the bars it can transfer to the fresh cabinet paint and leave a mark. Tape seems to fix that for the most part.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
ErectaRacks are a great trade off in "space vs. functionality". They are portable and versatile: work equally well for full size doors and any length trim.

FWIW- I started loosely putting taping across the bars when painting cabinets, to keep doors clean. A little extra hassle, but once they get paint on the bars it can transfer to the fresh cabinet paint and leave a mark. Tape seems to fix that for the most part.
Yep, I'm really liking it. It makes the job site look more professional, not to mention frees up a lot of space.

I bought a whole bunch of little points that they sell now you can put on the bars that make it so the point of contact with doors is tiny. Have you seen those? They may have added them recently.
 

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Yep, I'm really liking it. It makes the job site look more professional, not to mention frees up a lot of space.

I bought a whole bunch of little points that they sell now you can put on the bars that make it so the point of contact with doors is tiny. Have you seen those? They may have added them recently.
Yes, I actually picked up a set of those a while back, but have not tried them yet. Let me know how those work!
 

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They work great! I've only used them on one job myself, but it's nice to know there's no chance of anything sticking on the under side.
I literally bought them, and then forgot I had them, lol!

Are they fussy to use? How do they work when the doors are all different sizes? How do you clip them on when your carrying a wet door? or do you do set the clips first, spray door, and then set on rack (each time, one door at a time)? Am I overthinking this?

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BTW - you can stack the tower without the bars in the middle, if you wanted to use the racks for drawers. in other words stack a set of bars, and then use two black spacers without bars, etc... Just make sure you use the stabilizers after going 7 stacks high. After the items are surface dry, I will often stack a couple blanks on top and then cover loosely with painters plastic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Yeah the clips are great, the first time we used them we had probably six clips on each bar, and I've just left them on the bars ever since. Since they're so small we were able to pack everything back up into the bags with the clips still on the bars and have just kept them there.They can slide really easy up and down the bar, so when you're putting a new door down you can just slide the clip where it needs to be to 'catch' the door.

Good idea with draping the plastic over afterwards, I hate catching little dust nubs on fresh doors. That's another thing I like about this system, is other than the top row it seems like having the door stacked like that protects them from catching a lot of floating dust.

You're right about those support struts. For some reason my helper doesn't like to use them, I always have to make sure they get put on when the stack gets too high 😅
 

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Yeah the clips are great, the first time we used them we had probably six clips on each bar, and I've just left them on the bars ever since. Since they're so small we were able to pack everything back up into the bags with the clips still on the bars and have just kept them there.They can slide really easy up and down the bar, so when you're putting a new door down you can just slide the clip where it needs to be to 'catch' the door.

Good idea with draping the plastic over afterwards, I hate catching little dust nubs on fresh doors. That's another thing I like about this system, is other than the top row it seems like having the door stacked like that protects them from catching a lot of floating dust.

You're right about those support struts. For some reason my helper doesn't like to use them, I always have to make sure they get put on when the stack gets too high 😅
That makes sense. I'll try it.

He doesn't like to use the support struts? lol. takes about 30 seconds to install, why is that hard for him?
I can't imagine having a stack of freshly painted doors tipping over onto itself. That would be a disaster.
 
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