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Sikkens Failure

11718 Views 37 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  vermontpainter, 
vermontpainter
Has anyone ever removed a failed Sikkens coating by chem stripper downstreaming?
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T
hahah alright Scott, maybe you could have Sev come up and it would magically turn into a different house in the after picture :thumbup:
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vermontpainter
tsunamicontract said:
hahah alright Scott, maybe you could have Sev come up and it would magically turn into a different house in the after picture :thumbup:
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Nope, this is a case for the super sleuthes...old VP and Dr. GMack. I would not let my buddy miss out on the fun that job is going to be!
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painttofish
Have you discussed corn cob blasting the siding? I know of a biodegradable stripper that removes sikkens. It can't be downstreamed but can be sprayed on, and pressure cleaned. here is a before and after strip. I would recommend T&M because you do have to go back and apply a second coat in some areas.

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painttofish
And the big finish! We did not strip the whole house, only the exposed failed sections. Cobb blasting is the best method for stripping Sikkens.

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vermontpainter
I'd like to hear more about this. What was the stripping product and why is it called cobb blasting?
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T
they blast little corn cob chunks at the house. Its like sand blasting with cob I believe. Best part is Crow probably grows it for ya too ;)
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painttofish
vermontpainter said:
I'd like to hear more about this. What was the stripping product and why is it called cobb blasting?
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Corn cob blasting is like sandblasting but using small pieces of corn cobb. You need quite a set up to do it. You may not have anyone near you who can provide this service. Your best bet may be to contact builders of log homes and ask them if they know of any cobb blasters. There is only one company where I live who provides this service. 3$ sqft. It works awsome though, and with no chem's. The job above I used Coronado's Maxum-Prep stripper. It is biodegradable and I use it on all my decks that need stripping as well. The temperature needs to be up for it to work well (above 70). Like I said above, I would not recommend this product for stripping a whole sikkens house. We used it on the handrails and a few sections of siding.
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P
I've had a lot of experience with Sikkens Cetol on my boat. Been using it on the teak trim for 15 years. About every 5 years I strip it off and start over again. I've had success stripping using Peel Away which is the same as Peel Away 7. I doubt pressure washing would work without damaging the wood. Cetol looks great if it is consist:eek::eek:ently maintained which means recoating every season. It does not hold up to abrasion very well and eventually the UV gets it. As it fails, most of it will peel off leaving only the embedded stuff which you will have to mechanically remove with a sander. Yuck!. For the record, all the exterior handrails, toerail (60 lineal feet) coaming boards, hatch boards, and eyebrow trim on my boat are teak. It is a neverending battle to keep them looking nice and Cetol is a lower maintenace alternative to varnish.
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vermontpainter
Primer Guy said:
As it fails, most of it will peel off leaving only the embedded stuff which you will have to mechanically remove with a sander.
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The film is mostly failing. I can assure you I will not be laying a sander on this house.
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painttofish
vermontpainter said:
The film is mostly failing. I can assure you I will not be laying a sander on this house.
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I would highly recommend looking for a cobb blaster. Peel Bond does work but you have to deal with, well...... Peel Bond.
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T
Scott, any progress on this project?
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vermontpainter
tsunamicontract said:
Scott, any progress on this project?
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Waiting for approval of the proposal, which was rather detailed.
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T
hope you get it. We have a lot of Sikkens log and siding coated homes that are peeling around here. I personally think that you would be better off with a different product because once it peels, which it will, it is such a paint. Price of beauty I guess though.
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johnthepainter
sell them on the maintenance, so they wont have such an expenditure in the near future,,,
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painttofish
johnthepainter said:
sell them on the maintenance, so they wont have such an expenditure in the near future,,,
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Yes, show them the back of the can that says every 2-3 years for maintaining exposed areas and 3-4 on non-exposed. Then show them what a small failure looks like and what that small failure can turn into, and what it will cost them to strip the product $$$$$$$$.
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vermontpainter
No, the whole idea with this strip job is to get away from the film forming cetol type coatings and back to a lower maintenance penetrating oil which can still maintain every 2-3 years, just not have to deal with flaking Sikkens.
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painttofish
vermontpainter said:
No, the whole idea with this strip job is to get away from the film forming cetol type coatings and back to a lower maintenance penetrating oil which can still maintain every 2-3 years, just not have to deal with flaking Sikkens.
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If you maintain Sikkens every 2-3 years you won't have flaking Sikkens. How is the "lower maintenance penetrating oil" any lower maintenance if you have to apply it ever 2-3 yrs? It is all relative. Maintain your coating!
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vermontpainter
painttofish said:
If you maintain Sikkens every 2-3 years you won't have flaking Sikkens. How is the "lower maintenance penetrating oil" any lower maintenance if you have to apply it ever 2-3 yrs? It is all relative. Maintain your coating!
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When penetrating oils age, they fade rather than flake. It is much easier to wash them and add more oil than it is to deal with a film that is in various stages of an uglier and more labor intensive deterioration every 2-3 years.

Sikkens and other film coatings die a much uglier and less noble death. Penetrating oils age like a fine wine if maintained.
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