Most of my experience comes from slamming out apartment interiors and it's not as crucial for bleeding issues, they get turned over so many times I don't think smoke damage has a chance to show itself after the paointing... lol. That has been a while. I rarely do an interior and when I do I rarely if at all get any smoke damaged jobs. I have no doubt that the experience you all talk about is true. I'll consider some new steps in my prep if I ever come to this issue. Thanks!
smoke damage
anybody ever fix some light smoke damage? there is a room right next to the kitchen(that had the small fire) with a 30 foot ceiling and there is smoke particles(black)cobwebs,but the ceiling doesn't look brown. would you prime the whole thing or just paint it? I am going to prime the whole kitchen because it looks pretty bad,but the great room only has smoke damage i can see right at the dorrway from the kitchen. what would any of you do?
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don't things like Creosote and grease need to get washed with TSP, not just ammonia?
I am not questioning anyone anyone on BIN, but why does it or a shellac work so much better than say Cover Stain. I am just not a huge fan of BIN and am always looking for something else to use instead. Not that CS is that much better to deal with but.
I am not questioning anyone anyone on BIN, but why does it or a shellac work so much better than say Cover Stain. I am just not a huge fan of BIN and am always looking for something else to use instead. Not that CS is that much better to deal with but.
TC,don't things like Creosote and grease need to get washed with TSP, not just ammonia?
I am not questioning anyone anyone on BIN, but why does it or a shellac work so much better than say Cover Stain. I am just not a huge fan of BIN and am always looking for something else to use instead. Not that CS is that much better to deal with but.
IMO, ammonia is one of the best grease cutters, and it evaporates if you don't rinse completely clean. TSP is a good detergent, but I hate how difficult it is to rinse. (Your milage may differ). When I used to wash houses (by hand with dairy brushes, mind you), the solution was water, bleach, TSP, and a non-ionic detergent (liquid dish soap). Yup it worked, but damn, lotta rinsing.
Shellac is just one of those coatings that presents a great barrier. I find that it doesn't work well on alcohol based inks (Magic Marker et al), but for knots and smoke, it is the ballz. And, in case you didn't get the memo, B-I-N is a white pigmented shellac.
wash and bin the room , and check out the adjacent rooms also,,, then blast it with some ozone.
Great info Bill. I have been using the tsp rinse free liquid stuff. Much easier to rinse off (it is like I would not rinse something like tsp off . . . yea right). Does your clear ammonia have the typical ammonia smell? I don't mix soap with my tsp, though I am sure a surficant would benefit its cleaning abilities. Soap residue seems to be difficult to avoid though.TC,
IMO, ammonia is one of the best grease cutters, and it evaporates if you don't rinse completely clean. TSP is a good detergent, but I hate how difficult it is to rinse. (Your milage may differ). When I used to wash houses (by hand with dairy brushes, mind you), the solution was water, bleach, TSP, and a non-ionic detergent (liquid dish soap). Yup it worked, but damn, lotta rinsing.
Shellac is just one of those coatings that presents a great barrier. I find that it doesn't work well on alcohol based inks (Magic Marker et al), but for knots and smoke, it is the ballz. And, in case you didn't get the memo, B-I-N is a white pigmented shellac.
So shellac for smoke and knots, CS for marker and ink and the like. And yes, i did get the white pigmented memo, didn't participate though :whistling2:
what do you mean here John?then blast it with some ozone.
"Clear" as opposed to "sudsy" ammonia, and yes, it DOES have the typical ammonia smell! Prolly even more.Does your clear ammonia have the typical ammonia smell?
If you go to a janitorial supply house you can buy INDUSTRIAL strength. That'll burn a hole through your sinuses quicker than snorting white crosses.
I used to use ammonia for stripping wallpaper. But I realized no one liked the smell - although I got so I could barely notice it.
We oughta start a thread about which stain blockers block which stains. CS, Kilz (oil), B-I-N, and the others all seem to work best on a certain category of stains. I used to know what to use when facing crayons, magic marker, smoke, "washable" markers, etc. It be a good resource for all to have the right sealer for each particular stain.
You'll see a "sudsy" ammonia mix, often colored, sold as window wash"Clear" as opposed to "sudsy" ammonia
You don't want that kind
The "clear" should simply be labeled ammonia...and be clear
I was surprised to read so many posts before I heard shellac. It's the only primer that blocks the odor.As much as I hate most things Zinsser, they know what they are doing with shellac.
IMO, B-I-N has always set the standard for blocking smoke stains and even odor.
The ONLY reason anyone might or should prime over smoke damage is to seal in the smell, otherwise what's the purpose?
Why the hell wouldn't you seal in the smell????? If I came and sh!t on your rug would you wash it with water?
oil based kilz blocks the oder as well
paint, you are definitely NOT invited to my next partypainttofish said:If I came and sh!t on your rug would you wash it with water?
I did a comparison test with S/W shellac vs. BIN.
BIN won hands down, and the S/W smells worse then the BINS.
Last August I did a fire damaged house, we primed the whole thing with BIN. I have returned to the home on 3 different occasions (not call backs) and there has been no odor. I would not consider using anything else for smoke, stains, knots and anything else that may need to be blocked. I keep a quart in the truck at all times.
Sage
BIN won hands down, and the S/W smells worse then the BINS.
Last August I did a fire damaged house, we primed the whole thing with BIN. I have returned to the home on 3 different occasions (not call backs) and there has been no odor. I would not consider using anything else for smoke, stains, knots and anything else that may need to be blocked. I keep a quart in the truck at all times.
Sage
oil based kilz blocks the oder as well
Oil Kilz does have its uses, but I've never know it to seal all smoke stains. Have they changed the formula in the past 15 years?
Sage, don't get me wrong, I think B-I-N is the best stain sealer for many stains. BUT it is NOT a panacea. There ARE stains that bleed through it. I wish I could remember the list, but it's been to many years.I would not consider using anything else for smoke, stains, knots and anything else that may need to be blocked. I keep a quart in the truck at all times.
Sage
Kilz has its list of stains it will block, as does Cover Stain and every other one.
As I said in a previous post, we should compile a list of what stains each stain sealer will actually seal.
I'll start, BIN blocks smoke stain and smell:jester: Water seals Jason's rug:no:As I said in a previous post, we should compile a list of what stains each stain sealer will actually seal.
the only problem is it is such light smoke damage in this room you do not even smell the smoke and it looks white from what we can see.The room has a 26 foot ceiling and is painted with flat white paint. so its non washable. I also read you can't wash smoke with water you have to use a chemical sponge. this home owner wants me to remove the black cobwebs and prime where it smears on the wall. I am going to vacuum them out so they don't touch the walls. the kitchen is normal size and that is where most of the damage is over the stove. that room will get totally stain killed.
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