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Don't normally get these types if jobs. There was a small fire in this home. No smoke stains but lingering smoke odor. Will coverstain work or do I need Bin? I've never sprayed bin other than out of a rattle can and would like to avoid it if possible. Thanks
 

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Cover Stain doesn't block odors very well, but it is one of the things oil-based Kilz is actually very good at. I don't like the stuff otherwise. BIN would still be better.

Zinsser also makes a water-based Odor Killing Primer. I can't give much feedback on it, I've only had one customer use it and only because they needed something clear.
 

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Nothing beats the OG Shellac for these jobs. We tested all of them before I went in and sealed up all those apartments after the fire a few years ago, (see thread death by shellac). Even the oils that are somewhat effective tend to leave their own stank behind, but none are as effective as shellac.
 

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Nothing beats the OG Shellac for these jobs. We tested all of them before I went in and sealed up all those apartments after the fire a few years ago, (see thread death by shellac). Even the oils that are somewhat effective tend to leave their own stank behind, but none are as effective as shellac.
That sort of what I was afraid of but I may just bite the bullet and use it. Are you guys using full face respirators when spraying it or is the standard half face respirator good enough? I'm spraying around 800 ft so not too terribly large of an area.
 

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The risk with Bin is fire hazard (sparks), as you are basically creating an alcohol-based smog in a contained environment. A (pink) vapor cartridge would be minimal, but cant go wrong with full face respirator.

I cant imagine spraying either of the two options inside on a large scale. I would probably roll CS if I were doing the job, although I typically pass on exposure to that much fumes when possible.
 

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The risk with Bin is fire hazard (sparks), as you are basically creating an alcohol-based smog in a contained environment. A (pink) vapor cartridge would be minimal, but cant go wrong with full face respirator.

I cant imagine spraying either of the two options inside on a large scale. I would probably roll CS if I were doing the job, although I typically pass on exposure to that much fumes when possible.
Yeah I agree, better to avoid it all together. It's out of my normal scope but we've gotten a bit quiet so I figured it wouldn't hurt to take it on. They've got popcorn ceilings or we probably wouldn't be spraying.
 

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That sort of what I was afraid of but I may just bite the bullet and use it. Are you guys using full face respirators when spraying it or is the standard half face respirator good enough? I'm spraying around 800 ft so not too terribly large of an area.
I think it depends upon the logistics more than the actual surface area really. If it's a confined space, full face is obviously preferred. If you're spraying overhead a lot, that will add a fair amount of suck as well. We didn't even have doors on the units and the buildings themselves were tented, so I used half face, roughly 3-4 sets of organic filter changes per day. Over 1,000 gallons of shellac. I'm getting sick just thinking about it.
 

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I would use a full face gloves and hood if spraying for sure. That stuff gets in your eyes and everything. Make sure to turn off all ignitions and maybe an air mover/ ventilation..
 

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I think it depends upon the logistics more than the actual surface area really. If it's a confined space, full face is obviously preferred. If you're spraying overhead a lot, that will add a fair amount of suck as well. We didn't even have doors on the units and the buildings themselves were tented, so I used half face, roughly 3-4 sets of organic filter changes per day. Over 1,000 gallons of shellac. I'm getting sick just thinking about it.
What sort of equipment do you use to go through 1000 gallons shellac? I'm picturing a big pneumatic pumps pulling out of drums, graco king or similar, and a fresh air supplied full hood.
 

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Don't normally get these types if jobs. There was a small fire in this home. No smoke stains but lingering smoke odor. Will coverstain work or do I need Bin? I've never sprayed bin other than out of a rattle can and would like to avoid it if possible. Thanks
A few years ago I did a ranch house where the owner was a heavy smoker. Of all the products I looked at BIN had the lowest permeability rating - meaning that it would prevent cig smoke from leaching out into the rooms. That being said, I didn't want to breathe BIN so I opted for KILZ MAX. First I ran an ozone machine, then I cleaned and vac'd as much of the painted surfaces I could with a commercial cleaner from the janitorial supply house, rinsed with clean water and vac'd, let dry, then 2 coats of KILZ MAX.

The popcorn ceilings might present a problem if they are not sealed. Not sure if any primer would pull off the popcorn. If so, you might want to put a coat of Gardz on the popcorn before using BIN.

Good luck! I probably would pass on a job like this at this point in my life.

futtyos
 

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What sort of equipment do you use to go through 1000 gallons shellac? I'm picturing a big pneumatic pumps pulling out of drums, graco king or similar, and a fresh air supplied full hood.
Old school Speedflo 5500 Convertible. That thing runs like a top after all these years. I only used half face respirators the entire time, but we had huge industrial blowers to circulate fresh air. I sprayed more shellac in the 4 weeks I was there than the rest of the 34 years combined.
 

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What sort of equipment do you use to go through 1000 gallons shellac? I'm picturing a big pneumatic pumps pulling out of drums, graco king or similar, and a fresh air supplied full hood.
Half of the pails below were a day old, but
this was one of 3 spray stations set up
Tin can Liquid Aluminum can Tin Cylinder
 

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Old school Speedflo 5500 Convertible. That thing runs like a top after all these years. I only used half face respirators the entire time, but we had huge industrial blowers to circulate fresh air. I sprayed more shellac in the 4 weeks I was there than the rest of the 34 years combined.
I was thinking a big pneumatic sprayer to keep things explosion proof but if you have some big air movers maybe not needed. I know of at least two painters who perished in a lacquer explosion here many years ago.
 

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I was thinking a big pneumatic sprayer to keep things explosion proof but if you have some big air movers maybe not needed. I know of at least two painters who perished in a lacquer explosion here many years ago.
My Speedflo is a convertible, so although I do typically keep the electric motor on it, I changed it out to gas for this. It was put outside of the units, 250' of line, (first 150' was 3/8", then 1/4"). The spray stations were merely where we kept the full and empty pails. It's also where we dried the pails once empty, since that was one of the conditions if I wanted to dump the empties in the big dumpsters. I can swap motors in less than 60 seconds by removing the belt and adjusting a wing nut. Best design ever! All lighting was battery powered. There was no power to any of the units. I'm way more careful now than I used to be in that regard. Makes me quiver just thinking how careless I was back in the day with mostly lacquer but shellac as well.
 

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i make so much money spraying that stuff i just take my time. spray the ceiling in one room, move to another room spray another ceiling, then move back hit a few walls etc. people feel the need just to hold the trigger down and blast all the footage in one room, im not working in that environment.
 

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I am working on a house repaint that had a 15 year smoker and plan on cleaning all surfaces first with Super Clean Degreaser. I should be able to either oil or latex prime after that. Has anyone used Kilz Restoration?

 

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I am working on a house repaint that had a 15 year smoker and plan on cleaning all surfaces first with Super Clean Degreaser. I should be able to either oil or latex prime after that. Has anyone used Kilz Restoration?

Yep. As far as blocking stains, it works sometimes if you start with a clean surface, but typically needs multiple coats with adequate drying time in between. Most users don't start with perfectly clean surfaces though, which is why the need for an odor & stain blocking primer. As far as blocking odors, it fails miserably. Their claim of oil & shellac performance in a water-based formula isn't an exaggeration, it's a downright lie.
 
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