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Airless or conventional????What is the best set-up that you guys have used..
i.e. tips,oil,latex..etc etc any thoughts
i.e. tips,oil,latex..etc etc any thoughts
What machine do you have?
Oil or latex?
What type casing?
Budget for paint?
How are you prepping it?
a 413 with the 1099 with the pressure around 1800 ....sand, caulk, fill and vacuum ///spray second coat within 2 hours....SW 200 is fine for basic NC .......Duration sprays nice too......Machinesowertwin 10,000 & Graco 1095..
Latex..
H.M. frame..
no budget for paint..
sand it,
Got one! It is a nice machine. If you use it as a straight airless you can get decent production out of it, and it is easy to cart around. You are right about the finishes.All info good for sure. Have any of you used the 390/395 Finish Pro's from Graco? Pretty cool. They slow down production, but you achieve awesome finishes. Similar to the Aircoat from SprayTech.
The Graco Finish Pro's have a direct drive lower and they are lo-boys! Very cool from small projects. You work right out of a gallon.
Proclassic - 440i Sprayer - Graco 210 FFT
Titan Tips suk. The Proclassic is a wonderful paint, if you run or sag due to what ever reason, let dry and sand down, reshoot. It sands to a fine dust, I love it!
This is what I use for all my mill work in New Construction and Complete interior repaints (unoccupied), I rarely paint an occupied interior home.
J
Not sure that I have seen a hollow metal door frame. Got a pic? Obviously the answer is "no". Didn't realize the door frames where metal.... With the right kind of primer (DTM?) I don't see why proclassic wouldn't work.Good to know jason...have you ever used the proclassic on hollow metal door frames???
You can leave your pressure all the way up with a 1095. I usually use anything from a 3 11 to 3 13 tip. The biggest I would go is a 4 13. I would never put latex on door frames because it doesn't hold up like an oil does. Door frames get beat up more than anything else by the owner, so you should use an oil in my view. My favorite to put on door frames is DTM alkyd from SW. It sprays out fine and dries quicker than most oils. If you are going to spray your frames first. Wait two days to cover your frames with low tack tape and paper then do your walls. Another thing that will help you greatly is making sure your mainfold filter and gun filters are new or nice and clean before spraying so you dont clog up. The blue mesh ones are the ones made for oil which go with a 1095.Machinesowertwin 10,000 & Graco 1095..
Latex..
H.M. frame..
no budget for paint..
sand it,
I hate pro classic on frames. It runs and sags so easy. The other thing is it will set up too quick when you go back to put on the last coat with a brush and mini roller. If you do the inside and get some over lap on the face of the frame it will build up and set up too quick and give you a lot of problems. Plus it's just not that durable. I know a lot of painters don't like oil because they think its sticky and hard to work with but it's a lot more durable. I have seen some frames we have done in pro classic and all surface enamel latex over the years and some we have done in dtm oil, all surface enamel oil, and the egshell oil, and there is no comparison which ones have held up better.Proclassic - 440i Sprayer - Graco 210 FFT
Titan Tips suk. The Proclassic is a wonderful paint, if you run or sag due to what ever reason, let dry and sand down, reshoot. It sands to a fine dust, I love it!
This is what I use for all my mill work in New Construction and Complete interior repaints (unoccupied), I rarely paint an occupied interior home.
J