Professional Painting Contractors Forum banner

1 - 20 of 56 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys, I've got about 3500sq ft. of interior pine shiplap walls and ceilings to paint. The ceilings are v-grooved and the walls are true shiplap, new construction. I was originally thinking about spraying BIN but thats alot of fumes and the place only has 3 windows, more worried about combustion. Ive used stix in the past and I wasnt impressed with it. Any good alternatives out there?

Thanks
 

·
Youngling
Joined
·
114 Posts
Hi guys, I've got about 3500sq ft. of interior pine shiplap walls and ceilings to paint. The ceilings are v-grooved and the walls are true shiplap, new construction. I was originally thinking about spraying BIN but thats alot of fumes and the place only has 3 windows, more worried about combustion. Ive used stix in the past and I wasnt impressed with it. Any good alternatives out there?

Thanks
General Finishes water based stain blocker. Pricey, but others here like it.
$90/gal.

I’m going to use it on my next job in a couple of weeks.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
448 Posts
Pine will be tricky... I don't know if ANY waterbased primer will work. You could try oil, instead of shellac. Not quite as deadly, but should still block the knots.
 

·
Youngling
Joined
·
114 Posts
Pine will be tricky... I don't know if ANY waterbased primer will work. You could try oil, instead of shellac. Not quite as deadly, but should still block the knots.
Good point. Pine tends to swell with water based products.

I stand corrected.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Super Moderator
Journeyman Painting Contractor
Joined
·
2,392 Posts
Why the heck would someone install 3500 sq. ft. of knotty pine and then want it painted? Ouch. What about just spot priming the knots with BIN, then use something like the Lenmar wb200 undercoater..?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
851 Posts
Why the heck would someone install 3500 sq. ft. of knotty pine and then want it painted? Ouch. What about just spot priming the knots with BIN, then use something like the Lenmar wb200 undercoater..?
+1 to what kevyn said. Especially the first question! Then I started to think about what spot priming 3500' sqft of pine looks like. Then I thought, well, what else is there? Hopefully this job is on a t&m basis. What a nightmare.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Its not in a house but rather a barn. I tried to talk them into staining/poly but they want it white. Its the farmhouse trendy look. I guess I am just going to have to suck it up and bring in some fans with furnace filters and stick with BIN.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Kevyn, I have never used wb200. I dont think I have ever used a waterbased primer on bare wood in my life but then again I havent done much wood painting (besides trim and cabinets) on the interior of a home either. Seems like every time I stray away from what I know works, I end up spending more time going back and fixing things.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,859 Posts
Kevyn, I have never used wb200. I dont think I have ever used a waterbased primer on bare wood in my life but then again I havent done much wood painting (besides trim and cabinets) on the interior of a home either. Seems like every time I stray away from what I know works, I end up spending more time going back and fixing things.
1WB.200 is awesome. cheap too. not sure how well it handles pine knots...

Personally I would give you prime lock or some 094.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Prime lock would require me to go through and hit knots with shellac anyways.

Original plan was to spray it all with BIN, sand, two coats of finish.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
851 Posts
Kevyn, I have never used wb200. I dont think I have ever used a waterbased primer on bare wood in my life but then again I havent done much wood painting (besides trim and cabinets) on the interior of a home either. Seems like every time I stray away from what I know works, I end up spending more time going back and fixing things.
Using water based primers on bare wood isn't odd at all unless there are tannin or knot bleed issues. I've primed miles of clear pine trim and plywood with water based primers. They're just not good stain blockers. So, e.g., cedar and knotty woods can be a problem.
 

·
Super Moderator
Journeyman Painting Contractor
Joined
·
2,392 Posts
Kevyn, I have never used wb200. I dont think I have ever used a waterbased primer on bare wood in my life but then again I havent done much wood painting (besides trim and cabinets) on the interior of a home either. Seems like every time I stray away from what I know works, I end up spending more time going back and fixing things.
Waterbased primers have come a long way(respectively). There has been alot of talk of Zinsser Smart Prime. Modified Acrylic primer. https://www.rustoleum.com/~/media/D...nglish/CBG/Zinsser/SPM-01_SmartPrime_TDS.ashx
Although I'd still hit the knots with shellac.
Other option would be to talk them into letting the knots bleed through naturally.. Or like ccmn says, an oil primer. But then you have to ventilate like crazy.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,031 Posts
Zinsser's new primers look interesting...


*SmartPrime "does not support combustion" (same as 123 and 123plus) so safe to spray.
However, both have a health warning: (!) Carcinogenicity, category 1B- May cause cancer ??!!??
Dries to topcoat in 1 hour.

Category 1B: includes substances whose carcinogenic potential to humans is presumed, classification in this category is primarily based on animal data.

did I read that correctly?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,118 Posts
I would include some wording in the contract not guaranteeing the knots against bleeding...bleeding is inevitable. I’ve also done quite a few new homes with t&g v-groove and center match knotty pine where bleeding was the intended & desired look. One of the homes had 36,000 sq ft of t&g all hand brushed w/2 coats oil primer & 2 coats of Satin Impervo oil !!

The following are links to one project, however the v-groove material wasn’t primed before installation and shrunk pretty badly so the v-grooves look like chit, although the photographs were taken 10+ years after doing the home (I like to get a couple of coats on all sides and edges prior to installation to avoid that). My company also received mention for the work done in the July/August 2006 edition of Elle Decor magazine’s Learning Curve.

https://wideplankflooring.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/Nahem-20.jpg

https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jfA3hYLK...oY5OdNhzaJHZpQYZA7gCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_2217.JPG
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,025 Posts
Zinsser's new primers look interesting...


*SmartPrime "does not support combustion" (same as 123 and 123plus) so safe to spray.
However, both have a health warning: (!) Carcinogenicity, category 1B- May cause cancer ??!!??
Dries to topcoat in 1 hour.

Category 1B: includes substances whose carcinogenic potential to humans is presumed, classification in this category is primarily based on animal data.

did I read that correctly?
Thats only if you're in California.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,859 Posts
Zinsser's new primers look interesting...


*SmartPrime "does not support combustion" (same as 123 and 123plus) so safe to spray.
However, both have a health warning: (!) Carcinogenicity, category 1B- May cause cancer ??!!??
Dries to topcoat in 1 hour.

Category 1B: includes substances whose carcinogenic potential to humans is presumed, classification in this category is primarily based on animal data.

did I read that correctly?
That's better than the old sikkens products which stated something to the effect of "Will cause cancer"
 
1 - 20 of 56 Posts
Top