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You pros have always guided me in the right direction on issues.

I am fairly new to being on my own. I have worked painting new construction for years, we used to do more stain/clear coat jobs back in the late 90's but today it's 90%+ paint in new homes.
we always sprayed the interiors trim, rolled walls. take doors to a shop..
we always prime trim up, spakle (caulk also), let dry, sand,, prime again, and spray trim with porter laytex, one or sometimes two coats depending on what GC wants sometimes


or in warm time outside in the dirt on saw horses to spray, take doors in some room to dry.

I have a new titan 440, and a air operated 2 gal pot HVLP....
I have a nice big new garage, but that is un-insulated, unheated.. So I need to work out a way to spray doors at the site/home for now or untill it gets warm.
I am thinking of setting up a plastic tent to spray in garage or a a room...

My question is... how is the best way to do this?
Or most important---how do I vent the overspray out?

.. I don't want to vent paint all over the outside of some brike house or
down the road..

What kind of duct system would you use?,
what fans, or filters?

I guess the main question is about venting systems, and what you use?

Thanks
scotty
 

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When ever I'm doing a new construction. I usually spray my doors on dummy hinges as I spray all of the trim. That way I just get it done in one shot. And ware a really good mask. Of course that depends on what works for you. If I were going to spray anything in a shop. With my last setup we had two big fans inside a OSB box about 6 feet wide attached to the wall and then a long hole in front with what ever kind of filters you want to use to cover the hole. We used furnace filters.
 

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I opened a shop several years ago, hoping to take trim paks there and do them. Problem was delivery/transportation, builders didn't want to let the materials off site and hardware being lost was also their concern.

If something is lost, it's on me, but if it simply isn't there, it's still on me, so I gave up on that idea.
 

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Okay, set up homemade spraybooth in my shop today to spray cabinet doors and then 20 doors from new construction I just finished.

Got ready to go with Titan 440 sprayer and Grayco 413 tip and then it hit.

I've sprayed many, many gallons and no problems. Was gonna use Zinser oil to prime cabinets and wouldn't even begin to flow through this tip. I called Sherwin Williams rep earlier and he told me the tip had to go in the orange guard so I was following his directions. Had always used 515 or 517 tip before so plenty of flow.

Question is I turned pressure all the way up and couldn't get product to flow. Do I need to thin it way down or is tip the problem?
 

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Also amazing what happens when you read the can to. Zinser recomended 517 tip only so used it, turned pressure down, thinned and held away. Worked pretty good. Tommorow with top coat, owner wants latex so gonna change filter in gun and thin down and try again.

What have I got to loose. Cuz with 517 tip got lot of overspray.
 

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Also amazing what happens when you read the can to. Zinser recomended 517 tip only so used it, turned pressure down, thinned and held away. Worked pretty good. Tommorow with top coat, owner wants latex so gonna change filter in gun and thin down and try again.

What have I got to loose. Cuz with 517 tip got lot of overspray.
This is one area that I would DEFINITELY ignore the instructions on the can.

I use a 2-10, 3-10, 4 or 5-10 for doors.

I don't even use a 5-17 on ceilings.

(edit) unless it's new drywall and the house is gutted, then I use a 6-17
 

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Cover Stain?? 440 will not pump it UNLESS it is paddled really well. It tends to get thick on the bottom. Try a bigger tip- 517 and go out and buy panty hose and insert the rock catcher into it. This will filter your paint the best.
I use a 440i and a 3-10 for coverstain all the time. I recently did it with oil coverstain.

It's best to reduce the oil coverstain with thinner any way. It flows out nicer, quicker and easier to sand, any runs are smaller and less gooey, generally all around works best with some thinner in it.

I cant tell you how much becuase I always just stir it in till "it looks right".

Probably around 8% is good.
 

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I use a 440i and a 3-10 for coverstain all the time. I recently did it with oil coverstain.

It's best to reduce the oil coverstain with thinner any way. It flows out nicer, quicker and easier to sand, any runs are smaller and less gooey, generally all around works best with some thinner in it.

I cant tell you how much becuase I always just stir it in till "it looks right".

Probably around 8% is good.
I use the 440i with 209 and 210 often with CS but shoot straight most often. One thing I noticed thats common with Cover Stain oil is how thick the bottom of the can is even just off the shaker. I ask them to shake it twice.

Are you using NAPTHA for reduction or fine spirits?
 

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Are you using NAPTHA for reduction or fine spirits?
Just regular paint thinner. Coverstain is plenty hot as it is.

I spray the Zinsser acrylic 123 without reduction. I would like a lesser viscosity, but with the acrylic primer I don't want to risk altering the formulation as it already doesn't have a lot stain sealing capacity.
 
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