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If only it had good stain blocking as well. Someday.

Plenty of great sanding WB primers now. I have moved to WB lacquer primers for a lot of new work (MDF and poplar, etc). Not confident enough for going over existing finishes at this point. In limited testing so far, it has worked and they do have some stain blocking properties.
I have had really good results in our testing so far with using it over other finishes. Adhesion as been stellar over properly cleaned and deglossed surfaces.
 
I have had really good results in our testing so far with using it over other finishes. Adhesion as been stellar over properly cleaned and deglossed surfaces.
So far, I would agree with this. I did find the WB lacquer primers do take a long time to dry over sealed surfaces that they cannot penetrate. Adhesion seems good so far. Apply thin for first coat. Really thin as it likes to run over lacquer or poly stuff. Sanding is very nice though. Seems to block some tannins on oak, which most WB primers I have used will not block.

What concerns me a bit is the directions to strip old finishes that most of these products have.
 
What concerns me a bit is the directions to strip old finishes that most of these products have.
That way so they won't be on the hook for failures, pretty much all good cabinet coatings do this. I have seen it soften cheap latex enamel on a repaint. We let it dry overnight and everything sanded down smooth and had a great bond still.
 
Primers aren't for hide. Thats what paints do..
Well, I think a lot of painters would disagree - lots of us use Coverstain for instance because it has such great hiding potential. Whenever I use a product for priming that has zilcho hiding ability - I end up putting 3,4+ coats of paint to achieve hide/coverage.
 
So far, I would agree with this. I did find the WB lacquer primers do take a long time to dry over sealed surfaces that they cannot penetrate. Adhesion seems good so far. Apply thin for first coat. Really thin as it likes to run over lacquer or poly stuff. Sanding is very nice though. Seems to block some tannins on oak, which most WB primers I have used will not block.

What concerns me a bit is the directions to strip old finishes that most of these products have.
Dean, just curious - if you are going to sand, why would you use a product like stix? I'd rather use a more traditional primer like coverstain - or if I was staying with waterborne, something with better hide.
 
Well, I think a lot of painters would disagree - lots of us use Coverstain for instance because it has such great hiding potential. Whenever I use a product for priming that has zilcho hiding ability - I end up putting 3,4+ coats of paint to achieve hide/coverage.
Use better paint. It will always cover better than a primer.
And I use lots of primers that have much more than zilcho coverage- but none of them have as good as a quality paint.

You can do 2-3 coats of primer , or 1 primer 2 finish.

So once a primer has done what it was supposed to do ( in this case get adhesion) then- on to something that does coverage- a good paint.

This is the kind of thing discussed on the DIY forum.
Primer primes. Paint covers.
 
Use better paint. It will always cover better than a primer.
And I use lots of primers that have much more than zilcho coverage- but none of them have as good as a quality paint.

You can do 2-3 coats of primer , or 1 primer 2 finish.

So once a primer has done what it was supposed to do ( in this case get adhesion) then- on to something that does coverage- a good paint.

This is the kind of thing discussed on the DIY forum.
Primer primes. Paint covers.
A good paint only covers in two coats in conjunction with a good primer. I have first hand experience with Benjamin Moore Advance in semigloss over old varnished trim with Stix - it just barely covered on the 2nd coat and was real close contender for a 3rd coat. I have many instances of a good waterborne primer on bare wood allowing good coverage with only one coat of paint. Heck I remember priming wall panelling and bare wood with XIM years ago - and P&L semigloss, two coats, looked 95% on the trim, not 100%. I usually get 95% with a coat of coverstain and one coat of paint of P&L accolade.
 
No doubt you love your coverstain. In the occupied homes I work in, I almost never am "appreciated" for using the stink.
To each their own.
 
Folks,


How does Stix and advance work over DTM previously painted metal?I have few private entrance elevator doors to paint and was wondering if anybody did this combo?how well stix grabs oil dtm?
 
No doubt you love your coverstain. In the occupied homes I work in, I almost never am "appreciated" for using the stink.
To each their own.
Agree.
Pretty tough look from our young painters too, like:
- Why do I need to get a headache?
- Why is this a good career choice again?
Actually, from the same company, the new Aqualock has great adhesion
and hides previous colours and stains really well.
Likely not all stains I suppose.
 
Folks,


How does Stix and advance work over DTM previously painted metal?I have few private entrance elevator doors to paint and was wondering if anybody did this combo?how well stix grabs oil dtm?
We used Stix over the sleekest ever surface, a food service refrigerator unit.
We washed surfaces well obviously, but that's it!
B. Moore DTM gloss over it.
Still holding up 3 years later.
 
George Z said:
We used Stix over the sleekest ever surface, a food service refrigerator unit.
We washed surfaces well obviously, but that's it!
B. Moore DTM gloss over it.
Still holding up 3 years later.
I dont think you understand my question.

I was asking how well does the Stix work over oil DTM,eith finish coat of BM advance.

Maybe I didnt understand your answer?
Did you say you used stix and then top coated with DTM?Why did you use stix if you go dtm over dtm?
 
I dont think you understand my question.

I was asking how well does the Stix work over oil DTM,eith finish coat of BM advance.

Maybe I didnt understand your answer?
Did you say you used stix and then top coated with DTM?Why did you use stix if you go dtm over dtm?
I did understand. It was over a factory very sleek coating way more difficult to adhere than anything else. There was no Advance available then.
Not exactly what you are asking, just my experience.
 
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