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I’ve always been using an oil primer for wood with knots. Is this stuff just as good? Be nice to run a water base through sprayer for wood ceilings if I can quarantee tannins will not bleed through! I think it use to be called kilz max!

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I don't trust any latex primer for knots. Spot them with BIN and then maybe th3 Kilz will work for the rest. Maybe..
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I don't trust any latex primer for knots. Spot them with BIN and then maybe th3 Kilz will work for the rest. Maybe..
That’s what i was thinking. Other paint stores have two types always a latex for some things then oil for tannins. This is one of the few that says for tannins. Must be marketing for diy’s. They do get better with water base all the time though. I quess when we see a few water base ones bragging about good for tannins then we might be getting somewhere.
 

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That’s what i was thinking. Other paint stores have two types always a latex for some things then oil for tannins. This is one of the few that says for tannins. Must be marketing for diy’s. They do get better with water base all the time though. I quess when we see a few water base ones bragging about good for tannins then we might be getting somewhere.
It's probably like Zinsser's SmartPrime. I did a thread on it a couple months ago. I think they are trying to phase oils out industry wide.

We'll probably all be using wb primers for everything in the future. Does California still allow oil Based primers? That should inform us on the subject.
 

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Wow, I was just going to start a thread about this topic, I'm wanting to transition from BIN to a waterbase/waterborne primer, most of the work is cabinet rework. I have had great success with the MIlesi Cabinet Coatings, primed with BIN. I know, why quit something which works right? I have brush/rolled the BIN because of combustion issues, then top coated with 1k or 2k Milesi and man does it turn out beautiful. I have a fairly large job and using the airless to lay down a WB Primer would be ideal. A friend of mine swears by the WB Renner Primer, but access to the product can be challenging. So what is the solution for a WB Primer selection?
 

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Wow, I was just going to start a thread about this topic, I'm wanting to transition from BIN to a waterbase/waterborne primer, most of the work is cabinet rework. I have had great success with the MIlesi Cabinet Coatings, primed with BIN. I know, why quit something which works right? I have brush/rolled the BIN because of combustion issues, then top coated with 1k or 2k Milesi and man does it turn out beautiful. I have a fairly large job and using the airless to lay down a WB Primer would be ideal. A friend of mine swears by the WB Renner Primer, but access to the product can be challenging. So what is the solution for a WB Primer selection?
try the general finishes stain blocking primer. really works great
 

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I'm going to take your advice and shoot me some General this week, I will let you know my thoughts on it, again thanks.
FYI the first coat locks in any stains, a second coat gives you a nice clean base to work with. Its pretty pricey but I used it over an orange dye stain recently and didn't have any bleed through. GF uses a modified acrylic/epoxy resin.
 

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FYI the first coat locks in any stains, a second coat gives you a nice clean base to work with. Its pretty pricey but I used it over an orange dye stain recently and didn't have any bleed through. GF uses a modified acrylic/epoxy resin.
Pricey for sure, Yikes!!!, Did it require any final sanding out after the second coat.
 

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So basically the next generation in waterborne primers now offers "stain and tannin blocking" similar to oils.

Kilz, GF, Zinnser.

Personally, I will be glad to move away from solvent based.
 

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Pricey for sure, Yikes!!!, Did it require any final sanding out after the second coat.
Why would you not sand your primer
So basically the next generation in waterborne primers now offers "stain and tannin blocking" similar to oils.

Kilz, GF, Zinnser.

Personally, I will be glad to move away from solvent based.
They seem to take a different approach than an oil by being a 2 coat system. First coat absorbing and locking in tannins/stains. Second coat giving you a base to paint over.

I still see oil having a place especially over kitchen cabinets where there is grease, and more cost effective. Though of course keeping seperate equipment for solvents has its own costs along with solvents and PPE.
 

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Why would you not sand your primer

They seem to take a different approach than an oil by being a 2 coat system. First coat absorbing and locking in tannins/stains. Second coat giving you a base to paint over.

I still see oil having a place especially over kitchen cabinets where there is grease, and more cost effective. Though of course keeping seperate equipment for solvents has its own costs along with solvents and PPE.
For light to moderate stain-blocking, I'm sold on next-gen wb primers. What are they calling them, to differentiate from standard wb primers? "Hybrid Primers"?

Agree that in kitchens the cleaning of grease and sanding must be more thorough if "new" wb primers are used, as the adhesive properties are not yet comparable to traditional primers.
 

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Pricey for sure, Yikes!!!, Did it require any final sanding out after the second coat.
We did a thorough test of SmartPrime, and found that it was smooth enough to paint without sanding in some instances, and was slightly smoother when a little M1 Extender was introduced as a leveling agent.

However it benefitted from sanding (when time and budget allowed), and was able to sand to powder and top-coat in less than an hour.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
So basically the next generation in waterborne primers now offers "stain and tannin blocking" similar to oils.

Kilz, GF, Zinnser.

Personally, I will be glad to move away from solvent based.
They need two coats to work.
 
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